Before my summer break, I managed to walk the River Wharfe from its confluence with the Ouse at Cawood as far as Otley. I’ve just finished the rest of it, and am celebrating with a £1.99 pint of Harvester Stout in the Spoons at Otley.
You may have gathered I have not walked it in order or in the same direction. Here are the legs I did subsequently:
1. Took the DalesBus 875 from Leeds to Buckden, and walked down the valley to Grassington. Really pleasant, some road walking on quiet lanes. I took a rest in Conistone church and glanced up at a memorial to six cavers who died in the nearby Mossdale Cavern in 1967. I had never heard of this (I was only six at the time). I read up on it and found that they are still buried there. A man in the pub in Grassington said he knew about it: it was just totally freak weather. It touched me a lot.
2. The source of the Wharfe is officially at Beckermonds, but that is at the confluence of two streams. The source of one, Oughtershaw Beck, could theoretically be reached by taxi up the hill from Hawes, but then I realised the other, Greenfield Beck, could be reached by walking over the hill from Horton in Ribblesdale, so I took the first train. It was a great walk, I hardly saw anyone and finished at Hubberholme in a rainstorm. I visited the church, which is breathtaking in its simplicity. On to the Buck Inn at Buckden for a pint and the 875 back to Leeds.
3. Once more on the 875 to Grassington. The week before there had been a ‘beach’ by the bridge; today it was in full flow. This was a good portent for The Strid, where basically the river turns sideways. It is about 2.5m wide and 60m deep. It did not disappoint and it is easy to see why the survival rate for those who fall in is zero. From Bolton Abbey it rained steadily but the heavens opened as I got to The Fleece in Addingham. At £6.50 for a pint of Peroni, maybe it deserves its name.
4. So today I got the 874 to Addingham. The walk to Ilkley is fine along the river, but then to follow it closely basically means the main road, so I headed north to some gusty hills and am now in Otley. The sole of my boot semi-detached itself halfway round but thankfully held up.
The whole Wharfe walk cost about £40 with public transport, and whoever invented the DalesBus network needs a medal. Next river is the Nidd, and I need to get its source in before the winter timetable kicks in as it will involve a steep walk from Kettlewell to Great Whernside. The photo shows The Strid. You can get much closer on the west side, but I didn’t know that.
