Lot of interesting information here, but I thought I would wade in, as having studied a lot about LED lighting. Firstly, many (maybe most) manufacturers of LED bulbs are actually cheating us. They created LED "Bulbs" (should actually be called systems, as they consist of more than one element), that are often "overdriven". This means that rather than having the correct number of elements for the expected Voltage/Wattage/Lumen output, they often have fewer elements, mainly for cost (and as you will see, other reasons).
The biggest culprits are the "string" LED lights, thatlook like traditional filaments. So instead of fitting say 20 individual elements, they would perhaps fit only 15 or even less, and then overdrive it to give the same light output as a 20 element bulb. This does make it cheaper to manufacture, but has the downsides that it generates significantly more heat, and also reduces the lifespan by a similar manner. All the quotes on LED "lifespan" usually assume the bulbs are not overdriven, and also assume the bulb is not switching on or off regularly, which does impact lifespan (note the rapid switching off/on thousands of times a second using PWM for dimming purposes is not as harmful if done right).
The cynic in me, woudl suggest that manufacturers are pruposefully overdriving the bulbs to a) cheap out, and b) reduce the lifespan so that more are purchased. It seems that I was not the only one who thought that, as Dubai's ruler (Sheikh Mohammad Bin Rashid Al Maktoum) was tech savvy enough to have cottened onto this tactic, and put into law certain rules about LED bulbs, with the key edict that they should NOT be overdriven like this, and instead slightly underdriven to better efficiency, colour, and lifespan. Big Clive on You Tube investigated the Philips Dubai bulb against a normal Philips LED bulb. The first thing he noticed was that the dubai bulb had more elements for the same lumens, however, used significantly less actual power, and generated less heat overall, inferring a longer lifespan.
LED bulbs are also a lot more linear in power usage when diming; incandescents at 50% brightness still need more than half power, plus the use of resister packs vs PWM also increase the power used to the point that on some setups a 50% dimming can use almost the same amount of power as full on, with the only advantage being longer life for the bulb.
Going back on topic, it is better to actually dim down LED bulbs than turn them off when there is a high incident of movements, as a cold start on LEDs to full brightness can put a lot of stress on the components, with dimming (despite dimming actually causes the bulb to switch on and off thousands of times a second) being significantly less stressfull with the proper drivers. The problem is many lighting setups are designed for incandescents so cannot effectively (or properly) dim LEDS nece the reason why they switch on and off. Dedicicated LED motion control cuircuits can dim, and also can intelligently dim too based on the type and frequency of movement.
Further to this from janahan, I’ll add the following:
Unfortunately with lots of consumer products, especially those sold via trading sites, deliberate and misleading “information” combined with a low-ish price is used to attract sales. The manufacturer, distributor/seller and trading platform don’t care about reliably, quality, lifespan, consumer rights etc. As even if you do discover that you’re been had, either they’ve disappeared, it’s been too long time wise or are willing to cover the cost of a refund, with them taking the gamble that most people won’t bother to complain or claim.
As always, be careful if the price or details are ‘too good to be true’. If there is a lack of quality control, such as on trading sites, a LED lamp may actually consume half or less of its stated power rating (Watts or W) because either it’s been deliberately mislabelled/described or because they’ve cheaped out on the LED driver electronics.
Or there may be inadequate heat sinking / airflow / ventilation (LEDs last longer if they are kept within the recommended operating temperature range, they last longer if they are run at a lower temperature). If the LED chips and/or the driver electronics runs too hot, this will shorten the lifespan.
Running any LED at less than it’s maximum rating (power) will extend its life both by reducing the heat level and because there is less stress of both the semiconductor junction and the phosphor. The efficiency is also better compared to when it’s run at higher power levels.
Over time, the light output of all LEDs gradually reduces. Even a low power indicator LED will become dim after 25 to 30 years of operation.
There are many different manufacturing methods used in the construction of LED lamps and fittings. I would not say that the ‘filament’ (“string”) types are any better or worse than the other LED technologies.
There are some very good quality LED lights and LED fittings available. But with a lot of consumer market LED lamps, the lifespan ratings are only valid if the lamp is only run for three hours a day at most. Not continuously. Industrial lamps (which of course cost more) are often specified for continuous operation.
Linear is a bit of a “QI klaxon” word for me. The electrical characteristics of a LED are highly non-linear. They are current operated devices, but only conduct any significant current when the forward voltage is above the ‘turn on’ voltage (which for a blue or white individual LED is between 2.5V and 3.1V approximately). Further, the light output is also not a linear curve compared to the input power.
Although, the other light sources (including tungsten filament, quartz halogen, and the various gas discharge lamps like fluorescent tubes and sodium lamps are also very non-linear.
If properly designed, there should be no problem with switch on/off/on cycles. A good quality LED lamp/fitting should far outperform other lamp types in this respect. In actual fact, in applications where lamp life is important, tungsten or quartz halogen filament lamps are only dimmed when “flashing”, rather than actually being switched off completely.
For reasons of efficiently, pulse width modulation (PWM) or similar techniques are often used to control the brightness of LEDs. Indeed, if you have an alarm clock that uses LED seven segment type display, the individual LEDs are multiplexed to reduce the complexity of the interconnections. This is a form of PWM.
Obviously if the design is poor, then the switch on “surge” will eventually result in early failures.
Existing dimmers for tungsten or quartz halogen filament lamps are specificity designed only for this type of lamp. They take advantage that a hot metal filament takes time to change temperature (and hence light output). They use phase angle control.
Although there are some LED lamps that claim to be compatible with these ‘conventional’ dimmers, the performance is not exactly good.
If you want to have a dimmable LED lamp, change the dimmer switch to a conventional on/off switch and buy a remote controlled LED lamp with built in dimming functionality.