Edmund's extended European Excursion

[railfan99]

At Innsbruck we enjoyed a daytime journey on its longest tramway of 18 kilometres up the mountain to Fulpmes. Highly recommended, with great views as the tram/light rail vehicle winds its way up wards and onwards.

Then that evening, Sunday 30 October, we departed on a Vienna-bound RailJet that originated at Innsbruck at 1914 hours, train number RJX663.

This arrived Salzburg a minute late (the shame!) at 2105 hours after the usual pleasant trip on this great rollingstock.

We did not leave the station as our overnight journey was in a couchette car on the 2202 hours to Roma. This was initially a combined train with the rear section bound for Milan Porto Garibaldi.

The loco was 1116-085 (electric of course). We had a mother and her son who'd originated in Munich as companions.

As our suitcases were large (too large), we had to store them between the lower bunks in this six bed compartment that's apparently only ever booked for four.

I found it difficult to squeeze out of the bunk at night to go to the loo, but squeeze I did.

In the morning after only a fair sleep, we paused at Bologna 0610-16 so I went down to the sole sitting car (half empty) to experience it: better than I'd thought.

When there weren't tunnels, the scenery was pleasant although we were steadily losing time.

Eventually, we arrived Rome Centrale at 1104, 114 minutes later than the 0910 timetabled arrival.

The station seemed little changed from a previous visit years ago but that was more a reflection of the years having extinguished my memory, as there were almost certainly new shops. There was an ATM in a corner at one end of the station so I obtained some Euros, not wanting to always rely on my sole credit card. (Banks advise to take two of the latter, but I ignored their sagacious advice).

It was great to still see trams outside the station, although dwarfed by the number of urban bus routes that terminate outside. Still, all in one convenient place: very good.

 

[eastwestdivide]

Glad to see you had the Railjet first class experience - my first was on that same route, having apricot and chocolate pancakes served at our seats while snowy mountains rolled by.

 

[railfan99]

On Thursday 3 November it was time to bid goodbye to Rome, so we boarded IC510 with electric loco 401-012 at the rear.

This train was not overly busy, and from memory had vending machines on board as its equivalent of a buffet car. It had a small first class section with us the only travellers in that area.

From 1030 hours, there were alluring sea views.

Grosetto at 1140, a minute late was our alighting point: we found a cafe and had an enjoyable light lunch. The station was well set out and again from memory had lifts, although on platform 1 it was hidden back from the platform.

At 1330 hours with two car railcar 663-1112 and 663-1124, we departed but soon paused from 1339 to 1343 to let an up two car DRC pass. These railcars are ALn class, built some time between 1983 and 1995.

The junction (Montepescale - the writing in my notebook was not good) at 1348 to 1349 was a three platform affair, the third one being for the branch. Always good to swing onto the branch!

This was a delightful trip with only c.15 passengers from Grosetto. The two car DRC was rough when it started out of a station, but after that it was fine. The track was well looked after despite being a secondary route.

At Sticiano (1357-58), one boarded and five alighted.

After a tunnel, at Monte Antico (1420 to 1421) we crossed a single car DRC. Great to note that they still operate.

As usual, there was no ticket checking on board by TrenItalia staff.

The combination of grapevines, extensive olive plantations and some forest made for a most attractive journey. Highly recommended.

At the major intermediate station of Buenconvento (1443 to 1448), patronage about doubled as 10 boarded but only one passenger alighted.

There was another tunnel at 1454, after which a stop at Monteroni d'Arbia saw three on and one off.

We arrived Siena at 1517 hours, four minutes late.

If you are travelling by rail on The Continent, try to do some of these branchlines. Just as on a previous trip years ago I hugely enjoyed in one day picking off every branchline from Penzance to Plymouth such as St Ives, Falmouth, Newquay, Looe and Gunnislake, so too travel on branches is terrific in nations like Italy: beautiful stations, no or very few local tourists, no foreign tourists apart from us, occasionally crossing other trains, unhurried and sometimes older railcars. Great scenery can be a bonus, and seeing some locals use the trains is great, though I do wonder how many have a ticket.

 

[railfan99]

Friday 4 November saw us joining the 1218 hours from Siena that had loco 445-1122 and a five car train. How pleasing to again travel on a traditional locomotive-hauled service.

At Poggibonski, 1245-47, we crossed a three car DRC (or DMU/unit if you prefer) while earlier we'd crossed another loco hauled.

The train began to fill with 30 and then 35 on at two stations, followed by Empoli (1318-21) with its five platforms where 80 plus joined. Impressive. A fellow who'd been walking up and down the cars asking for money alighted. He didn't ask me, perhaps because I didn't look Italian?

Florence (Firenze) Sta Maria Novella arrival was a minute early at 1351.

Having been here previously but not remembering trams, I admired the light rail out the front: well patronised with what appeared to be good frequency.

As can annoy, our next departure's platform only displayed about 10 minute sprior to departure. This was a TrenItalia high speed train, set 04-A.

Annoyingly we'd been declined entry to the first class lounge despite having Global Eurailpasses. Yet in Austria and Germany, as well as the UK, no problems: the door is open for you Sir or Madam. Inconsistent and tells me that the various government or subsidised rail operators accepting Eurailpasses have a way to go in harmonisation.

I thought these Frecciarossa HSTs deficient compared to the three major operators in the UK, as well as not as good as French TGVs, German ICE or Austrian RailJets. Patronage however was quite good in first, though not full.

This Italian government-owned example lacked carpet, and had a basic feel to it even in first class. The seats just weren't as good, and the buffet poorly stocked: two strange looking 'trendy' beers where the attendant could not tell me if they were Pale Ales. So no purchase. However at least our tickets were checked unlike on TrenItalia non-high speed trains.

The important intermediate station of Padova was very busy with 100 waiting for an up train.

There was much evidence of freight along the way, another good point.

Arrival at Venice (Venezia) Sta Lucia (St Lucy, an early Catholic Martyr) was at 1738. Not a huge range of shops here, but space limited due to the Grand Canal's proximity. It was then onwards via a crowded vaporetto but that's best left to be explained on a travel blog not a rail one.

 

[30907]

Keep the branch line tips coming! I wouldn't have thought of Rome to Siena via the coast.

And I think this forum allows you to describe non-rail transport, especially when it starts from a railway station

 

[railfan99]

Keep the branch line tips coming! I wouldn't have thought of Rome to Siena via the coast.

And I think this forum allows you to describe non-rail transport, especially when it starts from a railway station

Yes, I've chosen not to describe non-rail transport, but one small highlight was unlike my first visit to Rome years ago, managing to have half an afternoon on the tramway network which was quite enjoyable with a variety of equipment. Basic seating in some trams: plastic bucket-like.

 

[railfan99]

After playing tourist in crowded Venice, late on Sunday night we waited for what I had anticipated to be excellent, the OBB NightJet to Wien (Vienna).

This train stables in Venice all day, so the empty cars arrived with OBB loco 1216-005 leading into the terminal platform (this loco would be at rear when we departed). The front loco was sister 1216-1013.

My notes are not very legible but from the front it had three cars for Munich (couchette-sleeper- sitting car) and four for Vienna (sitting car-couchette- our 1st class sleeper-sitting car).

Prior to boarding there was an excellent restaurant at the buffer stop/baulk end of platform 1. Highly recommended: good service and not overpriced. You wouldn't get this quality for anything near the same price in hideously expensive Switzerland. It was pleasantly furnished and the waiters were not aggressive (but nowhere in Europe or UK did I encounter any who were, so perhaps that's an urban myth invented by travel "journalists").

The train docked at 2113 hours and we pulled out a minute late at 2149.

At first glance the two berth compartment was pleasant, with an en suite. It would want to be for the price that from memory for the two of us in total was a supplement of Eur180.

However the first thing I did not like was how the doors opened into the corridor. Dangerous. The doors were also difficult to open.

The conductor was only so-so. Not rude, but since on departure from the second station Venezia Mestre, the sleeping car (and couchette) were full, he implied he was overworked. He was hard to find!

However soon after leaving we discovered that the toilet was inoperative. So I went down to the couchette car. Same! I then went to one of the sitting cars, and found a working toilet.

Apparently OBB lacks staff at some outstations to rectify blocked retention toilets. This isn't good enough, as this set had been away from Vienna for 4 or 5 nights. You and I may not (and hopefully don't) do it but some individuals are stupid enough to throw tampons, pads and other matter that ought not go down into facilities. We all know how quickly retention toilets can fail.

(When we arrived in Vienna, I visited customer service, but was informed OBB does not handle Eurailpass claims. The man gave me forms to fill in that I've since mailed to Eurail in The Netherlands to ask for a partial refund of the supplement).

The bedding was however excellent, and I slept well although finding an operating toilet in the middle of the night meant somewhat of a walk.

We were at Salzburg from 0422 to 0443 the next morning and departed Linz at 0615, arriving Vienna Hbf at 0759, a minute late.

Breakfast was as usual included and was very good, as I could have yoghurt. (Being from Australia, with southwestern Victoria being the second most efficient dairying region in the world - Camperdown et al - apart from New Zealand, many of us love dairy products in a way that isn't apparent in the UK as I saw a poor range of yoghurt when in Sainsburys).

I then wanted to use the loo, and thankfully found another sleeping compartment that had been vacated, so used its facilities after asking the conductor. But when I'd finished, inexplicably he locked the door to that compartment. I don't think he was trying to be unhelpful, or aggressive: he simply did not understand that others in the sleeper also had inoperable toilets so it might be a good idea to continue to grant access to that compartment.

I spent some time in a sitting car before Vienna arrival: there was no one playing up, so if I was so minded to sit up all night, I probably would. All these stories of passengers being robbed are exaggerated. (After all, in late 2019 I went to India by myself, and in three weeks of intensive train travel, didn't have any safety problems in the slightest. While that may not "prove" a nation is "safe', it's a random sample so it tends to paint a picture).

Had the toilets worked, I'd have given this sleeping car trip 4.5/5 but because of the defect, it can only rate a '3'.

OBB has some work to do to ensure these sleeping and other cars have basic needs met for long overnight journeys.

I also have to question why OBB heavily promotes these NightJets yet there are so few available berths. (Perhaps when it purchased the cars from DB, it has found it has a lack of extra cars to add to consists). Surely with Europe's huge 350 million population, a route like this justifies more than one deluxe sleeping car and one couchette?

However at Vienna (unlike Italy!), OBB allowed us to use its comfortable lounge (soft drinks and some good snacks, but no alcohol that I could see) so while my wife shopped at the downstairs supermarket, I patiently waited and then went for a fairly brief 10=stop tram ride for Eur2.60. (I paid another Eur.2.60 to return). Vienna from memory has the second largest worldwide tram network these days after Melbourne, so it was good to reacquaint myself with this. Patronage was good, although one homeless man on one tram was not overly well behaved.

 

[30907]

I also have to question why OBB heavily promotes these NightJets yet there are so few available berths. (Perhaps when it purchased the cars from DB, it has found it has a lack of extra cars to add to consists). Surely with Europe's huge 350 million population, a route like this justifies more than one deluxe sleeping car and one couchette?

There are no more sleepers (though some couchettes) available until the new build comes next year. Meanwhile not all the routes are as busy!

However at Vienna (unlike Italy!), OBB allowed us to use its comfortable lounge (soft drinks and some good snacks, but no alcohol that I could see)

Alcohol after 1800 was the rule - but it disappeared at the height of the pandemic and hasn't returned

 

[railfan99]

There are no more sleepers (though some couchettes) available until the new build comes next year. Meanwhile not all the routes are as busy!

Out of interest, which OBB NightJet routes do you suggest as 'busy' and which are 'not as...'?

Handy to know. Does OBB largely still regard NightJet as a success? I saw a media report where it stated te venture wasn't (overall) returning huge profits but it was doing acceptably.

 

[30907]

Out of interest, which OBB NightJet routes do you suggest as 'busy' and which are 'not as...'?

From my experience trying to book to/from Austria in August at relatively short notice, the least demand is for both Milan sections, Zurich-Graz and Bregenz-Wien; Zurich-Wien is busier and the various services via "Western" Germany busiest.
Not sure about the route via Basel.

 

[railfan99]

It was sad to know we were about to experience the final long distance rail of the holiday, but Monday 7 November saw us boaring DB's ICE26 from Vienna to Frankfurt.

The 0915 hours was booked out and in any case would not have allowed time for a tram ride, or my wife's supermarket foray, so the 1115 it was.

It was very well patronised in first class: hardly any spare seats.

I reminded myself how good the design of these ICEs is. Timeless classics: well designed seating and tables, quite in the saloon, compartments for those who would like to be more exclusive, roomy toilets with quality fittings...the list goes on. When one adds seemingly good bogies and excellent tracks, a 'winner' as UK Rail Forum contributors enjoy stating.

At Passau (1332-38) another set attached to us, and police joined, who stood in the vestibule. They were very pleasant, as were the conductors.

Scenery was better than I'd imagined, with small villages, sections of forest and good views. Totally relaxing!

At Regensburg in eastern Bavaria (1437-39) there were many container wagons and oil tank wagons, while we also passed an intermodal.

The approach to Frankfurt was interrupted by a signal pause (1735-36) with arrival at 1744 being six minutes late at a busy, and quite grand, Hbf.

Thus ended the sojourn.

 

[Techniquest]

It's been quite the adventure! The time spent in Switzerland sounds like it was amazing, the OBB sleeper doesn't sound like too much fun though! However the ICE does sound nice, I'd absolutely consider my first ride on one in First Class now.

As for waiters, I don't know if I've ever come across an agressive waiter/waitress anywhere in the world, I think it's got to be like you put in your trip report that it's a piece of journalistic exaggerating. Perhaps it happens in busy tourist trap restaurants in the peak season, but I can't comment there.

Regarding non-rail stuff in a trip report, I often discuss non-railway stuff in my own trip reports, especially if it's part of a rail day out!

 

[railfan99]

Some brief conclusions from our trip (including UK):

1. Despite criticism for constant timetable changes, lack of staff and the current incredibly inconvenient strikes, I found the service and catering on board Avanti West Coast and GWR to be excellent in first class. Staff were helpful and sensibly convivial. I did not travel on LNRE for long journeys so cannot fairly compare. TPE catering seemed to be lower standard than Avanti and GWR, as was Grand Central's.

2. Timekeeping in the UK was better than expected. I know that may not match with the experiences locals have. The worst performer was EMR. In contrast, Avanti was excellent and GWR very good, as were others.

3. Of trains on The Continent, German ICEs stand out for overall terrific design and comfort. OBB RailJets are also excellent but the buffet section is not as classy as DB's ICE trains. French TGV trains in first are also great but having to wait 20 minutes plus to be served in the buffet was some downside. RENFE HSTs were good, but TrenItalia ones a lower fitout standard.

4. Some of the most enjoyable moments were when I managed to venture off main lines and onto branch lines or secondary main lines. Had I been by myself, I would have done more of this, as it truly is the way to sometimes experience older rollingstock/locos/railcars. One sees more travelling at 70kmh than from an HST at 300kmh.

5. Railway booking office staff in the UK were variable. One fellow at Warrington Bank Quay on a Sunday morning was incredibly friendly, and very pleasant, and another at Bradford Interchange (not a station I had planned to depart from in my detailed itinerary) was most helpful. In contrast, a male staffer at London Paddington and a female at Glasgow Queen Street were the pits: they know they have a job for life and treat foreigners with contempt. I witnessed the woman at Glasgow being rude to three (IIRC) Asian girls ahead of me, so she obviously didn't like how I as a native English speaker queried what she told me, and that I'd heard her exchange with those before me.
6. Railway booking office staff on The Continent were uniformly helpful and most were pleasant. This was despite English not being their native language. They all seemed very used to dealing with English speakers, even the French who one would have thought could be annoyed that I and many others don't speak what France considers its 'world tongue'.

7. Conductors on almost all UK trains and on all European trains were pleasant. One exception was on a crowded TPE DRC ('unit') from Manchester where I left my suitcase slightly blocking the door at the rear that provided access to the guard's compartment. She made a song and dance about how there was a sign and how she 'loved' people who did this. However there was nowhere else to place a suitcase, and it was difficult to otherwise grab on to it as that would mean blocking a passenger exit door. In retrospect perhaps I ought have done the latter but her manner wasn't pleasant.

8. Austria was delightful for meals as was Italy. Even on the OBB RailJets and German ICEs, food and alcohol was reasonably priced. In contrast, French TGVs had overpriced food and beverages. On my one trip on a TrenItalia HST, the range offered was very poor: the only time with an on-train daytime buffet I did not spend any coin.

9. It was delightful to see so many major stations in Europe and some in the UK well protected from the weather. Obviously a necessity but even quiet, bypassed by high speed trains Portbou in Spain had a beautiful roof. In contrast, Southern Cross station (Melbourne, Australia) has a less than 20 year old 'wavy' roof that is a disgrace: too dark and dank. 10/10 for UK and European designers and accompanying c19th history.

10. Heritage railways in the UK are outstanding. A shout out to the thousands of dedicated volunteers, a few of whom I met. I hope that people in their 40s and early 50s replace some of the older ones as the latter die or become immobile.

11. Frequencies of trains in Europe and UK on branches or secondary main lines are not always as good as expected, given your (to my mind) large populations. A train every hour or two hours is not great.

12. Of the metros I travelled on, the German S-Bahn was probably best. When I visited Rome years ago, I recall how grotty its metro was. Little has changed at the latter: some of the stations were poorly lit and way below 21st century standards. Kilometres behind good Asian networks like Taipei.

13. The absence of ticket checking on secondary and branch line TrenItalia trains was very apparent. On UK trains that weren't high speed, it varied from very efficient to no one being sighted at all.

14. I love it when stations have competitively priced large supermarkets. Turin was a winner.

15. I had visited many of the cities discussed previously but two I hadn't were Siena and Turin. The latter was an especially outstanding tourist and travel destination, with a great tram netwrok complemented by historic buildings, and no crowds at world famous attractions/sites such as the Shroud of Turin. A contrast to the crowded Colosseum in Rome.

16. Restricted operating days make it hard, but try to visit the Rothorn steam railway in expensive overpriced Switzerland. Way better than going up Jungfrau.

17. Lastly, while I can't stand some items on 'The Great British breakfast' such as baked beans (yuk!) and horrible looking black pudding, overall my impression was that the quality of food in England had improved a lot in the last 25 years. So hats off to the chefs.

 

[Techniquest]

A good summary there, but I'm a touch surprised you don't like baked beans. I really like them personally, an absolutely essential food item in my house! Black pudding has never appealed to me, so I sympathise.

 

[railfan99]

There's two important further points.

18. Because I am not English/Scottish/Welsh, my expectations may differ from many of you, especially since I live on the other side of the world. For instance, many of you may not place much value on seeing 'historic villlages' because the UK has a plethora of these. Similarly our cuisine likes and dislikes won't be identical.

However I hope we share a love of branch line travel, because that to me is one of the most compelling railfan experiences worldwide.

Purchase an Interrail Pass (the equivalent of my foreigner's Eurailpass) and chart your own way.

19. Buy a print copy of the European Rail Timetable. It's easy to carry and incredibly comprehensive:

European Rail Timetable

www.europeanrailtimetable.eu

 

[Techniquest]

Likewise, those of us visiting Australia may see some places differently to those who live there. I've yet to do Melbourne, it is on my list to do if things work out that way I have New Zealand at the top of my priority list for 2023 though! That being said, I have the Isle of Skye way up there now following the watching of a video on some of the highlights of the island today Let's just say it's going to be a year of exploring!

Certainly it's a good point that we have a whole ton of pretty little towns and villages in the UK, it's easy to forget sometimes how fortunate we are. Branch lines, depending where they are, can be truly amazing I must agree. Dombas to Andalsnes (I have no doubt spelt that wrong!) in Norway is an absolutely stunning line to do, so very scenic! The DMU wasn't anything terribly special, but it was a great line to do. I absolutely want to go back there and do Flam one day, that looks absolutely stunning!

I must get around to re-reading my Benelux InterRail trip report, now you've reminded me!

 

[railfan99]

There was a further note to the summary that came to mind:

20. If travelling in Europe, it's essential to familiarise yourself with what trains tend to book out, and, if in a country that often or always has compulsory seat reservations, with your Eurail or Interrail, book ahead.

This largely applies to France, Italy and Spain but can cross borders. For instance, if you don't book three months ahead or more on some OBB NightJet sleeping car trains, there's a huge chance the deluxe sleeper(s) and the couchette(s) will not have any berths left.