Edmund's extended European Excursion

[railfan99]

The holiday ex the UK commenced on Sunday 9 October.

It'll be a familiar initial journey to many RailUK fora users: a trip on the Eurostar.

What will be unfamiliar to all UK citizens is the hassle I had validating my wife's one month Eurailpass.

As discussed in the other thread about my UK holiday, I had been allowed to board an Avanti West Coast train from London Euston to Manchester Piccadilly without my two month first class paper Global Eurailpass having been stamped by the originating station. This was because the booking office on a Saturday at Euston was closed until an unbelievable 0930 hoirs due to 'staff shortages', or that was what staff told me.

So I had mine validated at Manchester on arrival.

However it was a different problem with my wife's one month pass.

Staff at 'landside' could not find a suitable 'London St Pancras' station stamp. Eventually one was located, so we were free to go the boarding area.

It won't be news to you but the 1131 hours to Paris was delayed about half an hour due to late arrival of the set, not commencing boarding until 1130. We were on the 1231 hours. The seating area rapidly became super crowded, with many forced to stand. Suitcases here there and everywhere complicated the situation. Clearly a larger area is needed, and probably a greater number of food and drink outlets as well.

It was also annoying that despite paying a supplement to travel in business class (not 'business premier'), we were declined entry to the lounge as Eurailpass holders are excluded. Note that in Austria and Germany, no problems in obtaining entrance to those companies' respective lounges, and similarly other operators in the UK such as Great Western Railway's London and Penzance lounges. The lack of a standard policy is poor (though I admit a 'first world problem').

So with about 12 minutes before departure, we boarded the Eurostar, a task made more difficult for many because the car doors and platform height do not align.

 

[railfan99]

On board Eurostar, there was a brief stop 1307-08 before entering 'the tunnel'. Feta chicken was the unexceptional main but the Freedom (brand!) beer from Shrewsbury was better. There was a small dessert.

Business class was well patronised but not quite full. The journey was pleasant, especially when one could observe attractive French villages with attractive architecture and picturesque Catholic Churches. Service on board was passable but not frequent: I had to go to the galley to ask for a mini sized Coke. Toilets were clean, and the train rode smoothly.

The last few minutes was an exception: it had very bumpy track between 1543 and 1545 hours before we pulled into Paris Gare du Nord at 1551 to a cloudless, 18 degree sky. The platform was very narrow: it wasn't great fun to pull a suitcase along a lengthy platform.

It was a fairly crowded double deck train transfer on RER Line D to Paris Gare de Lyon for our nearby hotel.

At the station we had enormous trouble locating a photobooth that worked: in the end we gave up and instead of purchasing a Navigo Decouverte pass requiring a photo smaller than a standard passport one (annoying and cumbersome!), we decided to purchase day tickets on limited travels. My wife had never been outside of Asia or Australia before, so the usual tourist sites were visited during the next few days.

Why RATP still requires a photo for these weekly passes is beyond me: not as if multiple travellers can use them at once. Bureaucracy often makes life more difficult, even if this was very much a first world problem.

 

[railfan99]

In Paris, the only rail journey to note was an excursion to the Chateau at Rambouillet.

This involved a 400 metre plus walk from the closest Metro station to Paris Montparnasse that internally looked to have been refurbished from when I last used it 25 years ago. The 1235 hours double deck train, set 044, was lightly loaded and arrived four late at 1340 at our destination after a 'stopping all sttaions' trip. The train had a slack schedule, waiting time at most stations, something I never find good.

On the return a set on the 1652 hours was 088R: 10 cars in total. En route, the train filled up, arriving at the same Paris terminus at 1756 hours. Pleasant valley views were enjoyed along the way.

 

[railfan99]

Our first long distance trip was on the 1014 hours Paris to Barcelona TGV on Thursday 13 October 2022.

It was tricky to obtain seat reservations for this popular train from Australia. I could do it online after our paper Eurailpasses arrived in the mail from the Netherlands in July 2022, but these were only sent by Eurail by mail. However Netherlands Post, the airline and Australia Post were very efficient: I received them from my postie within 10 days of ordering, a period including a weekend.

This train departed from Hall 1 of well organised and pleasant Paris Gare de Lyon.

Getting through the barriers was a pain, as every ticket was checked. It was like a rugby scrum. As usual, annoyingly, we were through only 10 minutes before departure. The TGV was 805 coupled to 821, and we had a long walk to the front set, as the rear set was to be detached at Montpellier.

Once on board, however, the excellent seating and comfortable layout made one forget the boarding hassle.

We departed punctually and 32 minutes later I noted a beautiful viaduct at 1046 hours on another line.

After Valance TGV (1223-26), I went to the buffet car and for Euro20.50 purchased a baguette with ham, a tortilla, a Cruzcampo Especial beer (330ml) and a Coke. The queue for service took a few minutes. Australians always feel robbed overseas as our beer cans and stubbies (bottles) were historically 375ml, not 330ml

I spoke to the friendly conductor who was able to speak either three or four languages. Impressive! He said that normally this train had 400 passengers 'but today we have 500'. Train staff stay overnight in a five star hotel at the Barcelona station. He stated that the return train usually 'only had 300 passengers' but on some recent days it had been busier. He commented that large numbers of non-European foreigners use both. (At Paris Gare de Lyon, I'd seen Americans and surprisingly quite a few Filipino tourists, plus some Singaporeans).

At Montpellier we paused from 1342 to 1351, detaching the rear set.

Sete at 1404-06 allowed me to view many yachts but the trip highlight (apart from the enjoyable scenery) was seeing flamingos on a lake that had a power station on its other side, ten minutes after departing Narbonne at 1452 hours. The conductor had informed me about the flamingos: 'see them on the right hand side in direction of travel'. Shows that mankind and nature can coexist. I snapped a photo of the flamingos: we were travelling at 300kmh.

The Perpignon stop was lengthier than I'd expected: 1523 to 1533. Years ago, I had travelled on 'The Little Yellow Train' but it's a fading memory.

Upon approaching the Spnish border, we were asked to place masks on. Annoying, and to my mind pointless.

At Figueres Vilafont, a large number in my car alighted.

Fifteen minutes later at 1614 hours, on time, we arrived at our Girona destination. This was underground, and new for the high speed trains introduced a few years ago.

 

[railfan99]

On Saturday 15 October we joined a local eight car electric as the 1148 hours to historic Portbou station, retracing our steps though on the 'traditional' line.

This 'Media Distincia' train had 150 plus alight at Girona and 30 plus join, as from memory it originated in Barcelona.

It was pleasant to look at historic station buildings en route.

Portbou arrival was at 1242, five minutes late, with an enjoyable lunch in the town following. Perhaps on the beach Portbou would have been lively but in the centre of town there were fewer than 50 diners at the cafes I could see from a small town square. The railway station building evokes memories of grander days, and needs a some TLC, although it's far from falling down. The booking office staff did not speak English, not that I expected them to.

At 1403 we crossed the border by train for the four minute trip to Cerbere, where French border police were present. We did not leave the station, but caught the 1415 hours train back.

Unfortunately at Portbou it did not arrive as a cross-platform change to the train back to Girona, so not being near the lift or stairs, we failed to make the connection in one minute (which was all we had). This was extremely annoying. I haven't acquainted myself with the track layout but surely SNCF and RENFE could ensure that all trains either went through (this one being a RENFE train from Cerbere) or there was an easy cross-platform transfer able to be accomplished even with suitcases in 45 seconds?

So back to Girona on the eight car 1605 hours ex Portbou, arriving at 1709 hours after observing some SNCF trains at Portbou that had shuttled from Cerbere.

 

[railfan99]

Next day was from Girona to Madrid via Barcelona, all on high speed trains, to visit a friend for a short time.

'But it's c.750km each way, and there's limited numbers of high speed trains from Girona to Barcelona' one hears you say.

Thanks to a helpful Girona RENFE booking officer, we found seats on all four trains, although I'd have preferred an earlier departure to maximise time in Madrid, as my wife had never been there.

The 0930 hours from Girona was sets 36 and 44, arriving Barcelona at 1011, five minutes late. There was no need to again go through security at Barcelona Sants having done so at Girona) so at 1037 hours we boarded an AVE set that departed two minutes late at 1102 hours. We were travelling without suitcases which made the whole experience more pleasurable.

Arrival at Madrid was at 1340, very good for the distance covered, and we caught the metro four stops to Sol station, arriving at 1401 hours as it was years since I'd been to the city and hence was unfamiliar with the station layout. I also had to buy a separate metro ticket as Eurailpasses for most countries (an exception is Germany) do not cover undergrounds/metros/SBahns.

Departing Madrid Atocha at 1701 on a well loaded AVE set class leader (and as you say here, 'winner') 01, it was interesting that the plains began as early as 1709 hours. That wouldn't be the case in Melbourne or Sydney where suburbs can stretch for 60 kilometres.

There were many Madrid-bound AVEs passed at speed along the way, testimony to how popular this rail route is, effectively competing against cattle class aluminium sky tubes.

Arrival to a busy Barcelona Sants was at 1928. Unfortunately the connecting high speed train did not have a scheduled departure until 2140 so we were tired by the time it pulled into Girona on time at 2218. It was also very well loaded with at least 150 to 200 passengers alighting at this major station.

A good day although I prefer conventional trains as one 'sees more'. Nonetheless way better than having to travel by air.

 

[Techniquest]

Certainly been quite an adventure for you there so far! A mighty large amount of route mileage, it sounds like the AVE sets are good fun to do even if the lack of scenery is a bit disappointing.

 

[railfan99]

A much more scenic journey on Monday 17 October 2022 commenced from Girona at 0955, four minutes late with TGV set 804, retracing our steps.

At Perpignon, French border police checked our passports. We were there from 1036 to 1101, so were now late, and arrival at Narbonne was at 1135, 16 minutes late. The TGV was very well patronised and would have presumably become even more so as it approached Paris. It departed Narbonne at 1140 after a lengthy five minute stop.

Narbonne was an attractive station but annoyingly it still has not been equipped with lifts. Having two fairly heavy suitcases (probably respectively 25 and 21kg), it was difficult to haul these up the stairs. Fortunately another gent helped: this was common in Europe, although often I could (just) manage by myself, leaving one suitcase temporarily at the bottom while I hauled the first one up. Germany historically has had little ramps at the edge of stairs on which to place a suitcase as you mount the stairs: I don't recall seeing this in France. It'd be better to 'travel light' without a large suitacse but on a close to 60 day holiday from distant Australia this was unachievable.

We were on the 1201 hours to Marseilles St Charles, a loco hauled train that eventually departed at 1210 hours. 7301 was the electric loco, and it performed faultlessly with fast acceleration, helped by good quality tracks.

This was traditional French rail travel as I remembered it from 30 years ago: old-style cars with comfortable, well spaced seats.

The windows were not overly clean but the scenery of vineyards and some small towns, along with the occasional river crossing,k was inspiring. No bad behaviour at all on the train: the French are civilised.

There were seven economy class cars and two first class: we were near the back in one of the latter.

Strangely unlike the TGV there were no ticket checks on-board despite it being compulsory to reserve a seat. Police were on board at one stage but stayed in the economy section and didn't seem to move around.

I went in search of 'the buffet': this turned out to be a well hidden trolley service, with the man and his cart sitting in a compartment. Eventually he went up and down the train, but did not have a great range. A chicken baguette was Eur6.60 and a can of Heineken beer Eur3.30.

Almost every seat in economy and first was taken, and many seats turned over more than once. At stations such as Nimes, my estimate was more than 100 joined and 50 alighted. Given this train was in the middle of the day, I thought the patronage most impressive.

There was a further delay on the approach to Marseilles St Charles, where we arrived at 1521, 44 minutes late, so we missed our 1517 hours connection. There had been an incorrect on-board announcement in French suggesting that this 1517 hours would be held as apparently many on our train would be travelling to various French Riviera stations. The announcement was incorrect.

Upon arrival, there was a large queue in the booking office so we abandoned plans for a seat reservation on the 1517 hours TGV to Nice.

The station was extremely busy with hundreds of passengers milling about waiting to see from what platform their train would depart.

 

[railfan99]

Although I knew it was unlikely to meet with success, at the barrier (control point) for the aforesaid 1517 hours TGV to Nice, we presanted and waved our Global 1st class Eurailpasses, asking if we could see the conductor and referring to the impossible booking office queue.

The answer from ticket checkers was 'no'. Yet I bet there was a spare seat or three due to no-shows. Annoying and inflexible compared with the far preferable UK, German and Swiss approach of 'just board, find a seat or be prepared to stand if none available'.

So off to the 1627 hours it was, with our car having 2+1 seating, built by Alstom in 1986.

The train was well patronised with about 50 per cent of seats taken. I did not record how many cars, as my feet were again protesting.

Showing the perils of trying to be 'smart', my wife and I sat at windows, me with a solo seat, and hers with a table in a block of four.

Naturally, a commuter boarded at an intermediate station and sat backwards in the block of four seats, rather inhibiting conversation between us.

The scenery ex Marseilles was beautiful: sheer cliffs and high rock cuttings.

Many joined at Toulon at 1715, but at St Raphael and Cannes (respectively 1814 to 1817 and 1840 to 1843), many alighted before we arrived Nice at 1913 (two minutes late). I hadn't seen quite as much 'beach' as I'd expected, but had forgotten as my previously trip to Nice was many years ago.

 

[railfan99]

On Tuesday 18 October we did a switch trip the short distance from Nice to Monaco, albeit with most attractive seaside scenery.

The 1236 hours from Nice was SNCF 55561, which if I wrote it correctly was a 10 car double deck interurban. It was quite empty, as one would expect at that time of day, and arrived Monaco Monte Carlo at 1259.

It's quite a walk from the station to the 'city', something I'd forgotten. The long pedestrian tunnel could do with travelators.

Here we lunched. My wife hadn't been into Monaco (or anywhere in Europe) previously but like me found it underwhelming: lots of concrete and not much landside nature. The major road adjacent to a marina did not disabuse us of our impression. (This was my second visit).

So we caught 55586 on a five car double deck electric back to Nice, departing at 1459 for a brief 23 minute trip. Sun sparkling on the water near Cap d'Ail looked lovely but to my mind the beaches do not compere with world best ones such as white sand expanses in the Philippines, where unlike the Riviera, it's possible to be on a deserted most attractive beach on weekdays and even sometimes on weekends.

Patronage on the way back was better but the majority of day trippers probably return later. The double deck cars were clean. The driver did not take curves too fat, or decelerate uncomfortably.

 

[Techniquest]

Yikes to the missed connection, and to Monaco being disappointing. I was looking at a visit there myself at some point, as the French Riviera is on my to-do list. Nice is absolutely on the list, and if I go there I want to do it by train. The idea of racing through France on a TGV appeals hugely, although the fares put me off quite a bit!

What is Marseille's station like for changing in general? I've never been and I would be changing there for Nice when I go, I have this vision of it being a big place.

 

[railfan99]

Yikes to the missed connection, and to Monaco being disappointing. I was looking at a visit there myself at some point, as the French Riviera is on my to-do list. Nice is absolutely on the list, and if I go there I want to do it by train. The idea of racing through France on a TGV appeals hugely, although the fares put me off quite a bit!

What is Marseille's station like for changing in general? I've never been and I would be changing there for Nice when I go, I have this vision of it being a big place.

I hadn't been to Marseilles previously, though had been to Nice and Monaco.

The station looked to be easy to change at, given it's a dead-end terminus. This may have been my poor powers of observation but platform indicator displays (i.e. 'boards') did not seem to be well positioned, unlike say many UK large stations such as Euston or Waterloo where there's one huge board that one cannot miss.

Why not buy an Interrail Pass, given you're ineligible for a Eurailpass? While seat61.com disparages them, they give me flexibility: if I like a train I suddenly see and it's not compulsory reservations, I can hop straight on. That website advocates buying point-to-point tickets but often these come with 'particular train and time' restrictions so to me, even if one bought three months in advance, they are not worth it.

 

[railfan99]

You'd think that someone who considers himself well travelled (55 countries, most with rail networks) would know better than to join a peak hour train with heavy suitcases.

You'd be wrong.

I thought a fairly early start would be good so on Wednesday 19 presented at Nice station for the 0835 hours to Ventimiglia, Italy.

There were hordes of Monte Carlo, Monaco workers waiting on the platform for what turned out to be a five car double deck set, 55639.

We struggled on board as the train departed a minute late. The train was chockas/rammed with standees aplenty. It wasn't easy trying to find space for the suitcases, but fortunately the train mostly emptied at Monaco before arriving Ventimiglia at 0932 hours. The approach was interesting as one approached with great views of the valley.

The platforms here were just a tad run down but when I confirmed the timings at the booking office in the pleasant station building, the lady was incredibly efficient and printed out the timings and train numbers in what seemed a microsecond.

We joined electric loco TrenItalia 464.462 at the head of from memory eight cars, but I failed to record how many.

I tried to find a working toilet on board. Eventually I succeeded. The cars were clean, but elderly, and there were steps internally to the saloons plus doors between the cars that were challenging to open. Seating was pretty basic. No airconditioning that I could see.

Departing on time at 0957 hours, the route was scenic, being seaside. There were many tunnels, testimony to the skill of 19th century railway navvies.

Italy's houses and apartments seem a bit neglected compared to France's. But I loved the history and architecture. Beautiful to the eyes of someone from far away.

Patronage was light but at Pietra L., 20 more plus boarded, along with 30 plus at Savona.

We arrived Genova Piazza Principe at 1218, a minute late.

This was a lovely station that looked to have been renovated in the last 20 years: light and airy, and high ceilinged. No one bothered us. One has to like Italy: no wonder it's popular with Western tourists.

There was a piazza that had a railway station building-encased cafe fronting it, so I purchased beef rolls. There was outdoor seating, so we made sure we were under an umbrella. All civilised except for nearby smokers.

The next journey was on the 1327 hours to Turin, another loco hauled winner with E464.555 as the loco at the rear.

This was a beautifully scenic route as we climbed from Genova. Wonderful Catholic Churches formed the skyline, and there were some tunnels but plenty of time to admire the views. En route at Seravlle I photographed some abandoned industrial buildings, perhaps showing how manufacturing jobs have been exported to eastern Europe where labour costs are lower.

After a stress free, most enjkoyable journey we arrived Torino (Turin) Porta Nuova sttaion at 1534 hours, three minutes early.

This station even had a large supermarket within it with everything a traveller could want at affordable prices.

On top of that, Turin's excellent trams were outside the station on two sides.

I had chosen this city as I perceived it as less visited by Australians (and tourists generally) than the likes of Florence, and having been to the latter, I wanted to minimise visits to overcowded, tourist-wise, cities.

I was not to be disappointed...

 

[railfan99]

Turin was indeed tops.

Tram route 15 was deviated, running adjacent to Turin's Porto Nuova station due to construction works somewhere on its usual route a few hundred metres away. This was all the more convenient for us.

It was enjoyable to ride and took 27 minutes to reach the Sassi Superga stop, one stop prior to its terminus. The day ticket was good value, puyrchased from a ticket machine 'down below' at the PN metro station. Patronage on the tram route was excellent, as it was on others on which I travelled.

The Superga rack railway was splendid, with car D2 departing punctually at 1100 with 24 passengers. It took 14 minutes to arrive at a very misty upper terminus. Visibility was very low, perhaps 40 to 50 metres if that, but we walked up to the beautiful Catholic Basilica that was open for us to pray in and admire the frescoes. Something not seen in Australia!

We returned on the 1230 hours with the same grumpy staff member (driver) who previously told me off on arrival for trying to take a photo of the arrival. (They place a temporary barrier for no reason upon arrival so one can't walk to the up end of the platform. I don't know what they think I'm going to do other than quickly take a photo).

The journey was scenic as the mist/fog had cleared somewhat. There were 24 others plus we too, so again, a seated load. I believe patronage is higher on weekends. This rack railway is a separate fare: Eur6.00 return: very reasonable. It is also operated by local public transport company GTT. Do this railway if you are in Turin.

We had a great meal at a nearby restaurant and returned to central Turin, crossing the river by tram, after another most enjoyable day.

I should mention that the sights in Turin including its cinema museum were also excellent. There is shopping under the colonnades as well: very atmospheric. I wasn't able to travel on every tram route but some have older tramcars so this was a delightful choice to include on a European itinerary. Railfans won't be bored.

 

[eastwestdivide]

another vote for Turin here. The motor museum down near the old Fiat factory is worth a trip (metro)

 

[railfan99]

On a Friday afternoon, it's often not wise to rock up for what one suspects might be a commuter train with limited seats.

But unwise I am, so found myself at Turino P.N. stazione again for the 1425 hours two car DRC on what I surmised would be a scenic branch line.

I boarded 90 seconds before departure. Almost all seats were taken but I found a backwards facing one in this modern railcar.

It looked like the median age of passengers was 30 or under: maybe many were university students. Nonetheless, all were civilised: no loud music playing for the whole car to hear.

We called at Turin P.S. (for 'south) 1432 to 1434 (below ground platforms) where at least 60 more boarded, the vast majority having to stand. At the junction station of Chivasso, another 20 or more joined but fortunately at least 60 alighted.

We turned on to the branch. The track remained good quality, and the scenery fairly soon became good, graduating to magnificent as we forged a narrow path between splendid, very green hills by 1532 hours.

I alighted two minutes early at Verres at 1548 hours, as I lacked data on my phone but had remembered there was a two hour break for up trains in the arvo, so I was worried I wouldn't be back at our hotel by the agreed time of 1930. Aosta was the end of the branch and it turned out I could have made it there, but I'd forgotten to bring my hardcopy European Rail Timetable from our hotel.

After sampling the station bar, I boarded railcar set MD091, departing Verres at 1607. This turned out to be a mistake,k as at the otherwise delightful sttaion of Hone Bard (!) where we paused from 1613 to 1629 we were overtaken by an up express. My train terminated at the grotty station of Ivres at 1653 hours. What I should have done is caught that second train from Verres, but being tired I failed to adequately check the platform indicator so it was my fault.

I spent a boring hour on a narrow platform along with a few others, although some well patronised downs arrived and departed after disgorging many patrons.

I then boarded railcar MD051, departing at 1750 (on time) with the same driver I'd had from Verres. This was a slow train, having to be put away for down trains, so we arrived Turin P.N. at 1910 after many passengers made a quick connection at Chivasso to the 1842 hours loco-hauled train, involving a walk down stairs and then up another set to a different platform.

Live and learn was the motto of the day, but I couldn't help but think TrenItalia needed a memory timetable on this well patronised, well maintained branch line. Even the stopping patterns were inconsistent.

 

[Techniquest]

I hadn't been to Marseilles previously, though had been to Nice and Monaco.

The station looked to be easy to change at, given it's a dead-end terminus. This may have been my poor powers of observation but platform indicator displays (i.e. 'boards') did not seem to be well positioned, unlike say many UK large stations such as Euston or Waterloo where there's one huge board that one cannot miss.

Why not buy an Interrail Pass, given you're ineligible for a Eurailpass? While seat61.com disparages them, they give me flexibility: if I like a train I suddenly see and it's not compulsory reservations, I can hop straight on. That website advocates buying point-to-point tickets but often these come with 'particular train and time' restrictions so to me, even if one bought three months in advance, they are not worth it.

Thanks for the gen on Marseille, definitely good to know in advance. Not knowing is part of the adventure (sometimes, depends where one is going!) but when it comes to adventures outside of the UK I do like knowing at least some of the railway stuff.

InterRail has long been a fascinating idea, and I did what is effectively a mini-InterRail in the form of a Benelux 3 day pass back in 2013. That was a really enjoyable experience, and I am a little surprised when I skim through my memories that it hasn't been done again since then. Nearly 10 years since I did the trip (I believe it was March 2013, I need to try and find the trip report as it was before my master thread was begun) and to be fair there's been a lot of ups and downs since then. However I think the time is fast approaching to look at doing such a trip again.

Nice, however, would be a destination trip. The trains would merely be a method of getting from A to B, albeit a more interesting way than simply hopping onto a flight at Heathrow.

I think what stops me doing an InterRail more than anything else is that there's a lot of Europe I'm not overly interested in doing. Italy looks amazing to go exploring, but I'm not terribly keen on the food and wine culture. I'd like to sample some of the high-speed trains over there for sure, and I've always wanted to see the Leaning Tower of Pisa and Rome, but it's not really high up my list. They're more at the end of the list, for things to do when I've run out of exciting options.

Now Poland, I could easily fill an entire week there touring the beautiful cities and sampling the railway! In any case, such adventures are absolutely on hold until after the war in Ukraine is over. I absolutely want to do more of the world again, and I strongly suspect I will actually get on with booking New Zealand in 2023!

 

[railfan99]

Italy looks amazing to go exploring, but I'm not terribly keen on the food and wine culture. I'd like to sample some of the high-speed trains over there for sure, and I've always wanted to see the Leaning Tower of Pisa and Rome, but it's not really high up my list.

I have yet to detail more of the Italian travel we had, but without giving too much away, it's the 'minor lines' that should excite. They did me!

Re food and wine in Italy, a memorable meal was at a trattoria in Rome where baby octopi was my dish of choice accompanied by a very passable local 330ml stubbie (small bottled beer). If you enjoy seafood, delicious. Not outrageously priced: cheaper than my high cost country of Australia, and way better value than Switzerland. If you want to overpay on anything, visit the latter as we did for a few days. I had forgotten how expensive it was, and I am not an extravagant traveller: sometimes the supermarket provides lunch after an hotel breakfast.

I visited the Leaning Tower of Pisa 25 or 20 years ago: interesting, but after I'd viewed it for 15 minutes, I moved on. Rome has a lot more to offer but consider less visited cities such as Siena, which we got to. But more on that later.

Poland is good: I enjoyed a small number of days in Krakow a decade ago, riding older-style Tatra or whatever they are trams. Always fun.

 

[Techniquest]

I agree on Switzerland, it is very expensive and I made good use of the supermarket there on my short visit. I'm a fussy teetotal vegan, so Italian food has very little appeal to me.

I'd be the same with Pisa, I would want to see the tower but I'd also explore the area while there before moving on. Like I say, Italy is somewhere near the bottom of my list for further travels, but it is above more exploring in Northern Ireland

 

[railfan99]

On Saturday 22 October it was sad to depart Turin as this had been a highlight thus far.

From the hotel it was an easy walk to electric loco 464.565 at the head of an 11 car train, with only the first car being first class. So it was a lengthy walk to the front.

We departed four minutes late at 0858with at least 150 on, but this was dwarfed at Turin P.S. where at least 250 further joined. The stop there was a very efficient 80 seconds.

At Chivasso another 50 or more joined. Great to sere so many using this service!

I had interesting chats to passengers who expressed concern about the energy situation (price rises and possible shortages over winter) plus how hard it was to obtain a job in one's favoured profession after finishing university.

Milano Centrale arrival was at 1048, three late, another station to which I had never been.

To suggest it was busy would be a dramatic understatement. Passengers (and suitcases) everywhere. The 1120 hours for our trip to Spiez had an Italian HST up front coupled to an SBB Swiss set at the rear.

I found the Italian set to be spartan. No carpet that I recall, more basic seating than on other high speed trains, even in 1st and just a general lack of 'atmosphere.'

First was well patronised though not full: probably some no-shows.

Obtaining entry to the platform wasn't easy as there were passengers pushing their way in to be checked. It could have been better organised. As usual, even in UK at platforms with barriers, there wasn't a huge amount of time to walk to close to the front where our car was, so we only boarded seven minutes prior to timetabled departure.

The scenery was very attractive. I purchased a turkey and ham panini for Eur5.50 from the small buffet. The Domodossola, Italy stop was 1252 to 1257, quite lengthy.

After admiring the major freight years near Brig, Switzerland, we detrained at Spiez six minutes late at 1359, making a convenient cross-platform connection to four car railcar MUTZ30 as the 1405 to Interlaken, departing two minutes late from the beautiful setting (almost lakeside) that Spiez station enjoys. At Interlaken West at 1424 after some lakeside running and journeying through the tunnel, we detrained.

 

[railfan99]

As a Eurailpass 1st class two month Global passholder, I knew the additional fare charged by BLS to travel up to Jungfrau would be significant. I'd done it 30 years ago.

However even with the 'discount', they wanted Eur156.30 each for us to travel there.

'No thank you' I said to myself and was vicariously pleased when Sunday 23 October turned out to allegedly have poor weather on that mountain.

Instead, we decided to travel on the Rothorn rack railway ex Brienz.

There was trackwork, so I thought I was back in Melbourne with a bus replacement being common in my home city, but we secured seats on a PostBus that departed at 1005 hours from Interlaken sttaion, arriving Brienz at 1029.

Rothorn narrow gauge station was busy as this was the final day of the 2022 operating season. What I hadn't realised is that on busier days, the railway operates multiple sets. It turned out that the 1045 hours was in two dividions with ours being the second.

We easily secured tickets (an expensive CHF94 each, but better than Jungfraui) and sat in an open car not far from the female brakeman/conductor. Loco 6 (steam) was at the back of our two car train.

The climb was spectacular, probably the best Swiss mountain railway on which I've been, having done all but this one previously.

We arrived at the summit three minutes late at 1146 hours, enjoying the views, and having along the way observed the loco taking water, although passengers stay on board to witness this. The 1st division ahead of us had loco 12.

We then departed Rothorn with the aforesaid loco 12 at 1220 hours and passenger cars that were enclosed, but that was fine as heaps of photos were taken on the ascent.

From memory loco 12 uses heating oil so it didn't produce as much steam and smoke as the loco we had on the down.

At a loop at 1232, we crossed diesel loco number 9 on a down train. This was the only one of seven sets operating that day to have a diesel. At another loop (Geldraud) from 1307 to 1315, we crossed loco 16 at the back of two cars. A busy little railway!

Upon arrival at Brienz at 1331, a minute late, we raced across to board MV Brienz. These lake ferries are free for Eurailpass and Interrail holders unlike some other Swiss lakes. We departed at 1340, arriving Iseltwald at 1410 where we stayed until 1519 for a 1555 hours arrival at Interlaken Ost, there transferring to train number IC61 at 1600 for the three and a half minute ICE trip to Interlaken West.

 

[railfan99]

A sleep in was pleasant so on Monday 24 October I went solo later in the dayfor a bit of branch line travel.

Departing Interlaken West at 1007 hours, two minutes late, on a comfortable ICE set, Bern arrival was a minute late at 1053. The station was very busy with many changing trains. The ramps assisted.

The next train was an AdTranz double deck set as train IR15, departing Bern at 1107, on time.

En route I enjoyed an expensive CHF5.60 hot chocolate from the bored male buffet attedant.

At Palezieux, there were two (two-car?) sets in platform 3 for various branch lines.

I'd not been to Geneva before. The weather turned inclement at times there but after arriving at 1300 hours and purchasing hour-long validity tram tickets from a ticket machine on one of the tram platforms, we had a fulfilling 'city streets' tour. Trams were quite busy.

There was a reasonable selection of food outlets at the station.

Next up was the 1459 hours Geneva (loco 460.033.4) to Lucerne where we arrived at 1802 hours.

 

[railfan99]

Tuesday 25 saw me repeat an excursion of a sizeable number of years ago, but as often occurs, I'd forgotten the exact details.

We departed on Sudostbahn's 0939 hours train from Lucerne, only boarding a minute before as the train was departing from a platform quite some distance from the barriers. I didn't record which one but 1B strikes a chord.

By 1010, a minute early after a comfortable ride on faultless railcars, we had arrived at Arth Goldau. After patronising the very good Co-op supermarket adjacent to platform 1 and obtaining goodies for morning tea and lunch at prices far cheaper than on the mountain, we took the lift and booked tickets for Rigibahn.

There were few others about but surprise, surprise, by the time 1108 came and we pulled out with cars 21 and 11, the train was almost full, being augmented by another 15 joining at Parkplatz a kilometre or so up the track.

The trip up the mountain was pleasant but no match for the Rothorn. We arrived Rigi Kulm at 1151. The restaurant was closed but in brilliant sunshine we sat at outside tables and enjoyed the view, later walking to the top where valley views were even better.

At 1300 we joined a crowded more modern railcar set (two cars only) that at Rigi Staffelhoe became even more so as 30 young people joined, pushing and shoving to their roped off set aside seats at the end of our car.

At Rigi Kaltbad we alighted and joined the 1342 hours well patronised cable car down to Weggis, where arrival was 10 minutes later. We returned at 1411 to 1419 (not so well patronised) but had to wait until 1520 (fiev late) for railcars 41 and 42 to depart for the run down to Vitznau.

This was the more enjoyable part of the two lines despite partly being double track.

At Vitznau, 1544 we enquired of crew on the ferry Diamant if Eurailpasses were accepted (I had thought not) which they confirmed, the staff members saying it would be an (outrageous) Eur 25 or more per person for the half hour trip back to Lucerne. Interestingly, more than 100 connected from train to ferry so one can only imagine what it'd be like at the apex of the European summer.

So admiring the roundhouse and traverser, we waited for the 1615 hours last of the day back to Rigi Kulm (1648 to 1716) where 21 and 11 again took us back down to Arth Goldau for an 1801 arrival. Some Rigi Kulm kiosk and other staff were on this train as it too was the last of the day.

At 1815, the beautiful named express (name escapes me without consulting documents) took us back to Lucerne for a punctual 1841 hours arrival.

 

[eastwestdivide]

beautiful named express

Voralpen Express? It runs St Gallen-Arth Goldau-Luzern. Gold-coloured EMU trains.

 

[railfan99]

Voralpen Express? It runs St Gallen-Arth Goldau-Luzern. Gold-coloured EMU trains.

Yes, that's the one. Apologies for my laziness in not looking it up.

Attractive layout internally (though not high capacity). Businessmen were on it, not just leisure travellers.

 

[railfan99]

Wednesday 26 October saw us board an 0900 hours electric from Lucerne to Bern, arriving at 1003 where once again the station was very well patronised.

Here we used the ramps to transfer from platform 5 to platform 3 for train number IC8, the 1009 hours, which arrived Thun at 1027.

Upon returning, I travelled solo on IC61 at 1304 from Thun the short distance to Bern, arriving two minutes early at 1322. Here I joined IC1 at 1334 (o9n time) for an enjoyable and scenic trip along the main line (again!) to Lausanne with us pulling in at 1440, right on the knocker.

A four car electric multiple unit on route S9 was next, departing the well laid out Lausanne station at 1504 hours mid afternoon.

I was the only passenger in 1st class which was in a small section of the front car. The train was poorly patronised until we got closer to Kerzers, but its arrival at Lausanne had seen 100 plus alight counted by me, so as long as patronage is good in one direction, that's sufficient to justify the operation.

The lake views form appropriately named Grandvaux (where we puased at 1512) were terrific.

It was a very pleasant trip with some historic sttaions along the way on what I assume nowadays is a secondary route. However as seems par for the course in most of western Europe, the train rode smoothly.

At Ecublens-Rue (1542), we crossed a two car (EMU I think) and I snapped a lovely shot of the sttaion clock on platform 2 framed by a distant chateau (castle).

It was very pleasing that along the way there was evidence of freight at multiple stations, including tank wagons.

At one stage we ran alongside a small river: very scenic.

Avenches had large grain silos.

Eventually, on time, we pulled into Kerzers station at 1656 after an enjoyable crosscountry run, and I quickly followed other passengers across a garden to easily connect to BLS unit 727 (an EMU IIRC) on the S52 route back to Bern, departing at 1700 and after a slow run punctuated by station stops where many joined, arriving the latter at 1727.

Here I boarded the very well patronised commuter train to Lucerne on the 'old route', which was extremely scenic, especially around Escholzmatt, but obviously slower than today's favoured higher speed line. I had to stand for a while but fortunately the train gradually emptied, arriving Lucerne in darkness at 1904 hours and again meeting the commitment that I'd be back in the hotel room by 1930 hours after walking across the bridge and riverside.

 

[30907]

A four car electric multiple unit on route S9 was next, departing the well laid out Lausanne station at 1504 hours mid afternoon.

I was the only passenger in 1st class which was in a small section of the front car. The train was poorly patronised until we got closer to Kerzers, but its arrival at Lucerne Lausanne? had seen 100 plus alight counted by me, so as long as patronage is good in one direction, that's sufficient to justify the operation.
The lake views form appropriately named Grandvaux (where we puased at 1512) were terrific.
It was a very pleasant trip with some historic sttaions along the way on what I assume nowadays is a secondary route.

It always has been AFAIK, basically an all-stations route with the odd semi-fast in the days before regular interval services. Murten/Morat in particular is a lovely little town off the tourist trail.

 

[railfan99]

On Thursday 27 October it was adios to Lucerne as we pulled out on the 1135 hours to Zurich, headed by loco 460045-8. This was train IR75.

50 minutes later we arrived at Zurich platform 5, and lunched at the 'temporary' street food setup inside the huge roof, quite innovative. We weren't alone, but the prices of 'market food' were not cheap. But then nothing in Switzerland is.

I photographed trams outside the station in more glorious sunshine.

We then departed on IC3, an eight car impeccably clean double deck at 1338 hours for the very scenic run lakeside to Sargans, where arrival was timely at 1433 hours. Two car railcar 760-4 conveyed us the short distance to the spa town of Bad Ragaz where we arrived after a three minute zippy little trip at 1509 hours mid afternoon. The railcar had seats of varying shades and was colourful: some might suggest gaudy.

 

[railfan99]

Murten/Morat in particular is a lovely little town off the tourist trail.

Yes, there looked to be two or three towns worth a visit on a future trip. I did not see any coachloads of tourists: always a good sign.

 

[railfan99]

Saturday 29 October saw travel via train IR13 (St Gallen-bound) the short distance from Bad Ragaz to Sargans (1129 to 1134 hours).

While there was an Innsbuck-bound RailJet that departed at 1139 hours, supposedly it was booked out so we elected to instead sit at Sargans, from time to time dodging smokers. This was one of the few annoying features of European rail travel: smoking in Switzerland doesn't seem to be banned on platforms. It was surprising how many young women seemed to smoke. (In Australia, smoking prevalence has hugely reduced in the past 20 years).

Eventually after negotiating the ramp, as there were no lifts, we boarded RJX167, the 1337 hours OBB RailJet to Innsbruck. I'd not been on a RailJet before: the first class car was extremely comfortable. I wished the journey would continue for days, such as the good seat support for one's back, the good ride quality, the great service from OBB staff and the on-train buffet. The train was very well patronised. A French family opposite had brought everything they needed for a substantial picnic-style lunch.

While I omitted it above, on our 'free day' in Bad Ragaz we'd been to Vaduz to obtain that all-important unofficial passport stamp. This had largely been by bus, and we had to change buses opposite Schann railway station. Few local trains operate to it, but what I'd forgotten that as the RailJet reversed at Buchs SG and added another set, we then passed through Schaan.

I enjoyed a 5.2 per cent alcohol 'organic' beer from the buffet, reasonably priced at Eur4.3 as we passed through magnificent scenery. Snow sheds and the Arlberg Tunnel added to the mix. Truly panoramic, and one sees si much more from the train that if one was driving with the tail lights of a truck just ahead.

We had lost time at Feldkirch where we'd stopped from 1427 to 1435 and at Bludenz, 1446-50, so Innsbruck arrival was 25 minutes late at 1636 hours. However that didn't matter to me as a leisure traveller.