Day 32: XPT to paradise Port Stephens: Sand Dunes, up Tomarree Mountain and Wild Kangaroos
Part One: The XPT
This is Part Two. Part One is above and contains the story of getting to Northern NSW by XPT.
Where did we get to again (?) - oh yes, Hamilton. Waratah to Central, XPT to Broadmeadow, OSCAR to Hamilton. God, to think that I could have summarised the journey so far in just those simple nine words and yet I dished out over a thousand. Oh well, I am nothing if not a descriptive (and easily led on a tangent) writer. BUT TO THE POINT – unfortunately the key bus route around Port Stephen, which also happens to be the only bus taking customers from the Newcastle/Hamilton area up to Port Stephen, a fair distance for a bus ride, is only every two hours. To me this seems a little poor considering how loaded it was every time I took it (I used the route five times across the day), but oh well, I can’t change it by moaning. But where this is relevant to the report is that it meant I had about an hour at Hamilton before the bus came.
Well, Hamilton isn’t the most exciting of places, so I wasn’t dawdling there for an hour thank you very much. The station is the junction for the Hunter lines, and so I took a Hunter DMU a few stops to Hexham. I really must point out for the sake of rather humorous coincidences the irony of that journey – as it meant I had just taken a train from Newcastle to Hexham. Well, I’d say many of us here on the forum have probably done that many times, only most likely in the North East of England! Anyway, I found it amusing. The Hunter DMUs are nothing special, think of a single decker OSCAR – I’ve already described them to you before on Day 7 (I think)’s report. They are, however, better than the Endeavour DMUs which also run Hunter line services (albeit not as many of them) and lack passenger information systems, route signage and modern toilets.
From Hamilton it was onto a bus for an hour and a half, which was rather tedious although the seats were comfortable, it went via Newcastle Airport and the first place in Port Stephen it served was Anna Bay, where I decided to bail as this is the home of the famous Port Stephen sand dunes.
Oh, those sand dunes! How knuckle-bitingly irritating that no matter how hard I tried, the sheer vastness and impressiveness of these exceptionally tall, seemingly endless mountains of pure hot, soft sand. The photos really don’t do them justice. They’re absolutely incredible; I’ve never seen anything like it. I had a good climb of them and a good roam, and even a slide down the side of one to the bottom (probably not the most sensible of ideas but thankfully no sand-valanche was caused) The only nasty little shock was the thorny little plants in the sand at the bottom in between where the dunes end and where the beach starts. Small enough to think nothing of them – if you see them at all – but nasty enough to rip my soles to shreds. I put my shoes back on hastily.
Oh, and look at these giant footprints! What on earth could have made those? You can see with my foot looking tiny by comparison below that they weren’t human for sure:
It was ludicrously hot by now, so I decided it might actually be a good idea to buy some sun block from the little café on the Anna Bay beach – they had it displayed in the window – and while I was there I partook in a little light refreshment to cool me down, a la mint, fruit, crushed ice, etc. before I headed to the bus stop to get to the main part of Port Stephen.
The next part of Port Stephen where I alighted was Shoal Bay, just next to the famous Nelson Bay (which I wandered to and preferred Shoal) and whoa: what a ridiculously incredible beach. It was easily the nicest beach Australia had shown me so far, and that is saying something what with how nice so many of them have been here (I have high hopes for Queensland’s) – the water colour really struck me – how turquoise it was, even emerald greeny looking in some parts, and how absurdly clear it was near to the shore as well. The two mountains lurking in the background were oddly reminiscent of The Pitons of St Lucia, and it really did make me feel as though I was back on that lovely Caribbean island. Although, points to Australia, as the Caribbean sea was never that clear on the St Lucian beaches as the sea was here in this part of New South Wales. Some pics are more blurry than others because they’re screenshots from videos I took using the poorer Instagram story camera.
Two Red Bulls later, I decided it would be an outright crime not to climb the taller of the two mountains and get some winning shots with the new phone’s decent camera, and so I set off trying to find how to climb Mount Tomarree. I got a bit lost, so I asked the first person I saw for directions. She said she was going that way, so she’d walk me to the bottom of the path that leads up the mountain, and recognised from my accent that I live in the UK. She’d visited three times as her friend lives there. Well, the interaction that followed next completely astounded me.
“Where abouts in the UK do you live?”
“When I’m not at Uni, I live in Surrey, if you’ve heard of it?” (No that is NOT patronising, you would be SHOCKED at the amount of Welsh people at uni who don’t have a clue, let alone locals all the way down here)
“Oh, I know Surrey very well, My friend lives there – in a town called Farnham.”
“Sorry, WHAT?”
That’s been
my home town for well over ten years now.
Anyway, the smallness of the world then became even more weirdly apparent, as the three ladies ascending the mountain up the hot, sweltering track at the same time as me ended up chatting to me. I can’t remember how, one of us must have made a friendly comment about hoping there were no snakes about or something, and I learned that they were exchanges from Europe too, but at the University of Newcastle. One was from Paris, one was from Madrid, and the other from Portsmouth on exchange from University of Liverpool. Well, I said I knew Portsmouth, of course – it’s the home of my beloved Gunwharf Quays – and she asked where I lived and immediately said her best friend from uni was from there. When she told me his name, I was flabbergasted for the second time that evening. No word of a lie, I used to work with him. We were colleagues. I’d make the food, he’d run the food to the customers.

What a strange day.
Anyway, back to the mountain, and the view has to have been the most breathtaking I’ve ever seen. The pictures don’t do justice, but here you go.
Following this, I returned to the bus once more and had a choice before the last bus back to Newcastle in just under two hours. I could visit Fingal Bay, one of Port Stephen’s famous holiday destinations, where holidaymakers often swim with dolphins, or I could chance visiting the Nelson Bay Golf Course, a well-known spot for seeing wild kangaroos - but if none materialised I’d have thrown away my chance to visit Fingal for nothing.
Oh well, a beach is a beach! I was in the Hunter Valley (or near enough, anyway), and that’s blessed with many wild kangas, which were what I’d been desperate to see for so long, and they’re hard to see in and around Sydney what with it being so urban and built-up. Yes, I can see them in a zoo, but what on earth is exciting about that? I can see a lion in a zoo at home, it’s nothing to seeing the real animal in the wild. So the golf course it was, and it was absolutely teeming with wild birds. Cockatoos, lorikeets and even several kookaburras. Here, I made some friends – a lovely local girl who took great pleasure in naming all of the wildlife for us, and a lovely girl from Germany who had come to visit for several months like myself, and we went looking for kangaroos together.
“I’ve never been here and not seen some,” she declared, confidently, and then pointed – a giant lizard about the size of two adult human legs pinned together (what a weird thing to choose to compare to, thinking about it) was padding across the bunker and scampered up a tree. “That’s a Goanna,” she explained.
We seemed to have been very unlucky, as despite seeing countless wonderful birds, lizards and rabbits (OK, rabbits aren’t very exotic, but they’re cute) we weren’t having much luck with spotting a kangaroo. Until we were about to give up, and a large and small kangaroo bounded into the bunker together!
The other two got very close but I was nervous of being kicked if the tall mother kangaroo decided to sit on her tail and flail those fearsome looking legs of hers at me! I was so, so overwhelmingly happy to finally see roos in the wild (believe me, I’d tried looking for them so hard, even travelling 2 hours out to beyond Macarthur in vain) and seeing them jump was incredible.
After exchanging socials and saying goodbye to my newly-acquainted fellow kangaroo hunters, I picked up some delightful vegetarian samosas (and some, by contrast, disappointing prawn things and onion bhajis) and snoozed on the bus back to Newcastle. It was then on to the 10pm train to Central – by now, the last of the three daily Sydney-bound XPT/Xplorers had long gone five or so hours ago – and it was a weekend, so I had an OSCAR, which stopped EVERYWHERE and didn’t terminate until 1:30am.
Nah, it wasn’t that bad you know, I got comfy lying across the three seats at a bay of six while reading my book in the quiet carriage. Oh, and I ate these bizarre fruits I’ve never seen before - kiwiberries. They look like gooseberries on the outside, but on the inside they look like a kiwi and taste just like one too. I like them to be honest. The last train to Newtown had long gone, but trains to Erskineville run until a fair bit later, and I managed to get the last one there for an easy enough fifteen minute walk home.
It was a great day, really was. At the time, I’d have said it was my best day in Australia so far. The feeling of being at the top of Mount Tomarree, and the emotional sight of wild kangaroos metres from my face were two sensations I shall never forget.
I swear-wording-LOVE Australia, and I’m so glad to be here.
Next report will see me go outside of New South Wales for the first time since arriving! I’m sure you don’t want to miss that, so make sure you’re back

I’ve also had an incredible day today (March 11) in the Blue Mountains, so I really hope you’re here to hear about that.
I have a LOT of photos from the past week.
Buh-bye :P