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Ukraine

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stuartmoss

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Hi folks, I've had an invitation to do a guest slot at a university in Western Ukraine for a few days (a relatively safe city, only 125 air raid warnings in 2025!). I would probably fly to Krakow and take the train to the border from there, but has anyone on here done this since the war began? I'm just interested in anyone's experiences if you have done this recently, plus advice / anecdotes. Even down to currency on the Ukraine side, are they as cashless as us? How to buy tickets etc. All advice appreciated. Cheers.
 
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ricohallo

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The train is probably the best way to get in and out of Ukraine right now.

If you're going to Lviv, you've basically got two options. The best option generally would be the train from Przemysl to Lviv. Przemysl is quite easy to reach from Krakow. The trains run multiple times a day, some with IC+ units and some are the Soviet style sleeper cars. The trains do often get completely booked so make sure to book in advance, this used to be cumbersome with some trains requiring some form of Ukrainian ID but I believe it's easier now. Book online at https://booking.uz.gov.ua/en

Another option if the Przemysl option is not possible for whatever reason is a train from (Warsaw -) Lublin to Rava-Ruska with a connecting Ukrainian train. This train runs once a day and is less likely to be sold out. The first train is a loco hauled Polish train with older TLK cars, the second is a Ukrainian DMU. Once again I'd recommend the first option though.

Do not take a bus out of Ukraine, the wait times at the border can be horrendous.

There are many places where you can pay with card nowadays, and Ukraine isn't sanctioned like Russia so your UK card should usually work (but might be a good idea to check with your bank whether your card is enabled for foreign transactions). Always have some cash on you too because they don't take cards everywhere.
On the trams in Lviv you can actually pay with your card as well. It's really easy, just scan it on the reader when you board the vehicle. Not sure whether this also works on the buses.
 

stuartmoss

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The train is probably the best way to get in and out of Ukraine right now.

If you're going to Lviv, you've basically got two options. The best option generally would be the train from Przemysl to Lviv. Przemysl is quite easy to reach from Krakow. The trains run multiple times a day, some with IC+ units and some are the Soviet style sleeper cars. The trains do often get completely booked so make sure to book in advance, this used to be cumbersome with some trains requiring some form of Ukrainian ID but I believe it's easier now. Book online at https://booking.uz.gov.ua/en

Another option if the Przemysl option is not possible for whatever reason is a train from (Warsaw -) Lublin to Rava-Ruska with a connecting Ukrainian train. This train runs once a day and is less likely to be sold out. The first train is a loco hauled Polish train with older TLK cars, the second is a Ukrainian DMU. Once again I'd recommend the first option though.

Do not take a bus out of Ukraine, the wait times at the border can be horrendous.

There are many places where you can pay with card nowadays, and Ukraine isn't sanctioned like Russia so your UK card should usually work (but might be a good idea to check with your bank whether your card is enabled for foreign transactions). Always have some cash on you too because they don't take cards everywhere.
On the trams in Lviv you can actually pay with your card as well. It's really easy, just scan it on the reader when you board the vehicle. Not sure whether this also works on the buses.
That is really very helpful Rico, thank you, I will look at both options from Poland, the final destination is actually Khmelnytskyi, so a bit further East than Lviv, but it might be a good idea to have an overnight stay in Lviv each way.
 

The exile

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Well that’s not feasiblly going to happen any time soon, but thanks for the words of advice. Google will hopefully be my friend, network providing.
Doesn’t take long to learn the alphabet (so you can recognise names etc) as opposed to the language!
 

LNW-GW Joint

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If you need to overnight in Lviv I can recommend the Hotel Cisar (Готель Цісар). I stayed for a night in 2019, admittedly before the major Russian onslaught began.

It's on the tram route 6 from the station, just before the city centre (or a 20-minute walk). The transport system takes cash, but you can (or at least could) buy a day ticket online or buy a "Leocard". There's a cash machine (beware large denomination notes) inside the station, which took my UK bank card.

Cisar is Ukrainian for Caesar/Emperor and when I booked I was wondering which Emperor it referred to.
But behind the reception desk was a giant picture of a smiling Emperor Franz Joseph. Lviv/Lemberg was in the Austrian Empire (Galicia) for nearly 150 years until 1919, and there's still strong attachment to the old order.
Austrian Galicia stretched beyond Ternopil, but Khmelnytskyi is about 60km on the "Russian" side of that old border.

Changing trains at Przemysl (where there is break of gauge from standard to broad gauge) is easy, and the town is a very pleasant place, also an old Austrian town, to wander through with some good cafes, or to stay overnight if the connections don't work.
Lviv is only 100km from Przemysl but seems to consume 3 hours to get there (there's also a clock change at the border, UA is 1 hour ahead of PL).
From the European Rail Timetable Ternopil is 140km further and Khmelnytskyi 120km beyond that.

I was able to book Ukrainian trains on the UZ web site in 2019, but don't know if things have changed:
Doubtless security will have been strengthened since my visit.
 
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sh24

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Well that’s not feasiblly going to happen any time soon, but thanks for the words of advice. Google will hopefully be my friend, network providing.

You can learn the basics - especially the false friends - in an hour or two on the train. Strongly recommended!
 

mountainpixel

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The transport system takes cash, but you can (or at least could) buy a day ticket online or buy a "Leocard".
Don't pay with cash it costs more and is super inconvenient. Every bus and tram now takes contactless, just tap your card when boarding and you are set.

== Doublepost prevention - post automatically merged: ==

I've traveled multiple times to Ukraine since the start of the war.

Get train tickets here:

For some international trains you have to verify your account here:

Booking opens about 20 days ahead, although not all seats will be released straight away as they are hold back for various reasons. So you might see new seats being available just a couple of days before departure. Crossing the border is super easy and unproblematic, just keep in mind it might take some time at the border.

In my opinion the most comfortable option is taking the direct night train from Vienna or Budapest. As then all border formalities are done on the train, and you can mostly just sleep through all of it.

On the classical sleeper trains you can only pay with cash if you want a tea or snacks. Other than that you don't really need cash in Ukraine nearly all places take card, although having some is always a good backup.

I'm open for further questions if you have any. Have a good trip.
 
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endecotp

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23 Apr 2014
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Well that’s not feasiblly going to happen any time soon

Why not? It should take less than an hour to understand it the first time, then just look at it again every day at breakfast or something so it sinks in.

When I did this back in the 90s, just "телефон", "Аэрофло́т" and "паспорт" got me most of the way.
 

stuartmoss

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Why not? It should take less than an hour to understand it the first time, then just look at it again every day at breakfast or something so it sinks in.

When I did this back in the 90s, just "телефон", "Аэрофло́т" and "паспорт" got me most of the way.
Sorry I thought you meant the language, I’d misinterpreted. I have got ChatGPT to do me a sheet with letters and pronunciation. Thanks for the suggestion.

== Doublepost prevention - post automatically merged: ==

Don't pay with cash it costs more and is super inconvenient. Every bus and tram now takes contactless, just tap your card when boarding and you are set.

== Doublepost prevention - post automatically merged: ==

I've traveled multiple times to Ukraine since the start of the war.

Get train tickets here:

For some international trains you have to verify your account here:

Booking opens about 20 days ahead, although not all seats will be released straight away as they are hold back for various reasons. So you might see new seats being available just a couple of days before departure. Crossing the border is super easy and unproblematic, just keep in mind it might take some time at the border.

In my opinion the most comfortable option is taking the direct night train from Vienna or Budapest. As then all border formalities are done on the train, and you can mostly just sleep through all of it.

On the classical sleeper trains you can only pay with cash if you want a tea or snacks. Other than that you don't really need cash in Ukraine nearly all places take card, although having some is always a good backup.

I'm open for further questions if you have any. Have a good trip.
The night train from Vienna would be perfect, I didn’t know there was one, thanks!

== Doublepost prevention - post automatically merged: ==

If you need to overnight in Lviv I can recommend the Hotel Cisar (Готель Цісар). I stayed for a night in 2019, admittedly before the major Russian onslaught began.

It's on the tram route 6 from the station, just before the city centre (or a 20-minute walk). The transport system takes cash, but you can (or at least could) buy a day ticket online or buy a "Leocard". There's a cash machine (beware large denomination notes) inside the station, which took my UK bank card.

Cisar is Ukrainian for Caesar/Emperor and when I booked I was wondering which Emperor it referred to.
But behind the reception desk was a giant picture of a smiling Emperor Franz Joseph. Lviv/Lemberg was in the Austrian Empire (Galicia) for nearly 150 years until 1919, and there's still strong attachment to the old order.
Austrian Galicia stretched beyond Ternopil, but Khmelnytskyi is about 60km on the "Russian" side of that old border.

Changing trains at Przemysl (where there is break of gauge from standard to broad gauge) is easy, and the town is a very pleasant place, also an old Austrian town, to wander through with some good cafes, or to stay overnight if the connections don't work.
Lviv is only 100km from Przemysl but seems to consume 3 hours to get there (there's also a clock change at the border, UA is 1 hour ahead of PL).
From the European Rail Timetable Ternopil is 140km further and Khmelnytskyi 120km beyond that.

I was able to book Ukrainian trains on the UZ web site in 2019, but don't know if things have changed:
Doubtless security will have been strengthened since my visit.
Incredibly helpful, thank you!
 

mountainpixel

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The night train from Vienna would be perfect, I didn’t know there was one, thanks!
Keep in mind that this one is also sold trough ÖBB. Which is probably the easiest place to buy. But keep in mind that they often sell out quite fast. So just keep an eye out on the booking window. If that does not work out you can always get the train from Budapest with much better availability.
 

doc7austin

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All Polish exit immigration and customs checks happen in Przemysl, before passengers are let onto the platform of the Ukraine-bound train.
9 minute long transfer is too short.
 
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