Train to Machu Picchu

[Mainliner]

When I watched Miles Kington’s ‘Three Miles High’ programme on Peru in 1980, part of the ‘Great Railway Journeys of the World’ series, I never dreamed I would one day take the train to Machu Picchu. However, I was privileged to experience that a few days ago, as part of a tour of Peru (with a punishing schedule, including several 4am/5am wake ups and long minibus journeys!).

The scheduled Peru Rail and Inca Rail services from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes below Machu Picchu are frequent and well organised.

Ollantaytambo station is a hive of activity, with a nice coffee shop and pleasant waiting room, where staff in colourful dress, holding placards with the numbers of each carriage, greet customers, lead them to the carriages and then wave them off on departure.

 

[Mainliner]

My train was an early morning Inca Rail service with ‘360’ panoramic carriages, which certainly gave great views of the spectacular scenery as the train wound through the valley, alongside the river and up to Aguas Calientes, thankfully in bright sunshine.
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Complimentary snacks and drinks were given on the 90 minute journey, and guests were invited to an open part of the carriage to sit on cushions for a coca tea leaves blessing ceremony

 

[Mainliner]

A fleet of buses ran a shuttle service up the hairpin bend road to Machu Picchu. An orderly queue for the buses snaked half the length of the main street, but the regular flow of buses meant that the wait wasn’t long.

Machu Picchu is of course spectacular, and we had a very knowledgeable Quechua guide who was invested in the site for personal reasons, and we had a great 2 hours on site, with full explanations of its history.

Just after we had finished the visit in sunshine, and were queuing for the return bus back down to Aguas Calientes, the heavens opened, so we our timing was very fortunate.

We enjoyed lunch in the scenic town, in a restaurant overlooking the river, and then a wander around the extensive market, before heading back to the station. The scene at the station was rather chaotic, with the large waiting room rammed with people until the doors to the platform were opened, with queues outside the building.

 

[Mainliner]

Snacks and drinks were again served on the return journey, before the staff surprisingly changed into costume to act out a historical play.

A fantastic experience, as was the whole tour, which also included a day on Lake Titicata, where I was amazed to see that the 1930-built British steam ferry Ollanta which featured in the 1980 Miles Kington film is still there in Puno, now owned by Peru Rail.

Another highlight was Rainbow Mountain, where we again enjoyed sunshine until it started sleeting just after we got down from the 16,500 viewing point to the 14,000 car park area! Deep breathing and regular rests needed on the hike to the top, but the coca tea and coca leaves were effective in preventing altitude sickness/headache!

If anyone is interested, the tour was run by Exoticca - the first time I’ve used them, but the very complex itinerary involving internal flights, bus, train and taxi journeys, walking and other tours, all went very smoothly, and I would certainly recommend it - feel free to ask any questions. The only regret I had was that this particular itinerary didn’t include the train journey from Cusco to Puno, which runs over the 4,000 metre high plateau to Lake Titicata. The road runs alongside the track at various points, and it would have been a great train ride.

Fortunately, we just missed the suspension of the train service to Aguas Calientes due to protests, as recently reported! Ironically, Miles Kington commented on the unpredictability of things in the region back in 1980, when he was left stranded at the end of his journey!

 

[shredder1]

That sounds and looks amazing

 

[gazthomas]

I went there back in 2011 with my late wife Helen. We stayed up in Aguas Calientes a couple of nights so I was able to take quite a few photos of the trains in the town. We were able to take the train from Cusco to Puno which was great!

 

[DesDobramento]

Fatal rail crash reported

MSN