25th May Fields of Thistles, Day 6
The main reason for staying in Thurso overnight was to do the annoying Forsinard on a reasonable +110 (reasonable because it is the passing point between the 2nd northbound & 3rd southbound, plus 3rd northbound & 4th southbound, with a level crossing thrown into the mix so the chances of successfully making the connection from a Wick bound to an Inverness bound service was very low. My plan was to catch the 1st southbound service, alight and wait 110 (or so) minutes for the 2nd southbound service to appear to avoid a 7 and a bit mile walk in the countryside.
That was the plan, however due to a bridge strike around the Rogart area the evening before, the final northbound service didnt make it to Wick, and as a result the first southbound service would be starting from Helmsdale. Needless to say some of the words which came out of my mouth couldnt be printed here, but not knowing the scale of the damage (thankfully it seems nothing that serious) I decided to make use of the ticket acceptance on the Inverness bus, the X99 coach service (coach 54062). Disappointed in losing out on rail miles, but happy as the coach goes a different way towards Wick before visiting a few small villages along the eastern coast (some scary looking corners on the cliffs), the road meeting up with the railway at Helmdale (and the bus would beat that train into Inverness due to being able to take shortcuts.
Anyhow, I decided to take the bus to
Brora where after swinging via a nearby toilet for a PNB and Co-Op for some breakfast (and lunch), I returned to the station to find the first northbound service running late. So late that the 2nd southbound service which would normally pass it at Helmsdale was allowed to proceed to Brora and still beat the northbound service (so yes, I could have easily stayed in bed for an extra hour or so, but never mind).
With my original plan in pieces, it was left to try and recover as much as possible, which meant bringing back the walk. Thankfully it was sunny and I made use of my tee-shirt from the day before as a rough hat (as I was foolish not to bring one) as the temperature was Scorchio, it hit 29C. Eventually 158706 kindly decided to show up to take me to
Forsinard where after a few photos myself and another gentlemen set off down the single track A897 for a mere 7.2 mile walk (hey I had 3 hours to kill otherwise, and apart from a RSPB place there is nothing at Forsinard). Needless to say with the high temperatures (yes I did come away with burnt arms & nose), I kept making targets of shade areas on a completely foolish walk, but one I would recommend as the area is beautiful.
Eventually after 2 hours and 20 minutes I reached the tiny settlement and station of
Kinbrace, where there is evidence of a former 2nd platform for a passing loop, but not a lot else, needless to say I took shelter from the sun on a bench to recover from my walk in the wild.
Unsurprisingly the next northbound service was late, but I did my first shake of the head to signal to the driver that I didnt need them to stop, but it did mean that 158706 was around 15 minutes late returning from Wick to take me to
Lairg, a basic station located a good mile (or so) from the village of the same name, evidence of some sort of former industrial area nearby (a few Do not smoke signs in the car-park). I headed over to the other platform to seek some shade and to relax until the next northbound service would appear (no doubt 15 minutes late)
158719 was the next northbound service which was held at Ardgay for 15 minutes for that southbound service, I was caught out as it ran into the opposite platform so had to cross back over the bridge (might be another station where platform 1 is only used by that first northbound train where it crosses paths with the southbound service). Anyhow my original plan was to take this unit back into the wilderness, but I needed some additional liquids (did I already mention the weather?) so bailed at
Helmsdale for a walk into the small village/town (Im never quite sure when a village ends and a town begins), locating a small Spar shop to purchase a mix of cold drinks before returning to the station.
Helmsdale featured a nicely done up waiting room, giving pictures of the previous state it was in (basically left to rot), however it was quite warm inside that waiting room so to kill some time I headed to the shade on the opposite platform (as due to the sun the southbound platform lacked shade). Also has a lovely old bridge crossing a river, and you do know I love old bridges
The final southbound service (from Wick) of the day was 158703 (which I knew what it was due to seeing it earlier), which I took to
Ardgay, where the final southbound service turns into a semi-fast service (skips 4 of the smaller stations to attempt to be able to be a connection to the final southbound service at Inverness, but in most times that connection is missed and passengers dumped onto the sleeper if space available to be taken southwards). I wonder if Im getting a if that was the last southbound service, why are you bailing from it? style question, well hopefully the picture below will answer that for you:
I bailed due to an Ardgay Inverness service which departs shortly after the Wick Inverness service, formed of a short working service from Inverness, tonight that was 158725 and judging by the surprised look from the guard I guess this service normally carries fresh air for the first few stations. Anyhow Ardgay had nice views of some water, but I couldnt see anything else. I remained on board the unrefurbished 158725 to the ASS of the network at
Alness (with a nice fester at Tain due to late running of the northbound service being held at Invergordon for 158703 to pass it. A nice single platform in a small town, featuring a nearby Morrisons which was used to grab some dinner, however as service was painfully slow (one checkout open with a queue of around 7 customers), I ditched my plan for a walk along the water front instead headed towards a nearby bus stop
It was a Stagecoach route 25 service bound somewhere in Invergordon (fleet number 28601), which I took for a couple mile leap to
Invergordon station. This area feels a bit rough, but the station had good views of a boat. Beware there is no footbridge here with a good 5 minute walk to cross platforms. On the southbound platform the former station building has been painted up quite nicely as I waited for the Tain train to appear:
Looking back, the 21:06 service can either be formed of the same unit from Ardgay or in the event of that service being late, getting swapped out for the unit from Wick, tonight however it looked like 158725 made it to Inverness in time to head straight back out with only a few minute delay to take me one stop to
Fearn, with a rather low platform. Nothing around the area of the station, so I took a seat to wait for 158725 to return from Tain, the former station building now a private home it seems:
Anyhow, it was a short wait for 158725 to return from Tain to take me back to Inverness, being my first and only train arriving somewhere on time for the day. Rolled into platform 7, also known as Inverness North due to being far away from the rest of the station, a short walk back to the hotel where I sorted out my bag for an early start the next morning after a quick shower. I managed to regain my plan, even getting ahead of myself by doing Alness/Invergordon.
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27th May Fields of Thistles, Day 7
The big change to my plans in Inverness happened today, as the Friday would be another day on the Far North Line, leaving the Saturday morning to do the line towards Aberdeen, however due to engineering works meaning replacement buses from Inverness to Keith over the weekend, meant swapping my days over, and costing me extra for an anytime single ticket to Dyce.
Anyhow it was a good nights sleep in Inverness, as I walked to the station to purchase my single ticket before heading towards the 05:54 towards Aberdeen, I could tell it was going to be a hot day as it was already quite warm. The 05:54 this morning was formed of 170431 leading 158706, the 158 had its windows open which is a sign of failed AC, so sorry to BT, I boarded the 170 for some cool air for the early morning lightly loaded service which I took as far as
Huntly. It was a nice enough little station in Aberdeenshire, not a lot around which I could tell (town centre appears to be a mile or so away) for my short fester for the ECS to roll in from Aberdeen to form a Huntly Aberdeen peak time extra.
Today this extra was a 170 vice a double 158 (if I read the peak loading posters advertising this as being formed of 4 coaches), and it was a cool 170403 to take me the 13 and a bit miles one stop further east to
Insch. The good thing about this line is that compared to the Far North it is speedy in places, and has old school signalling & signal boxes. A handy Co-Op was located around a 5 minute walk away which was used for some breakfast:
If doing this line on the Saturday, the easiest way would be to stay on that 05:54 to Insch, and double back to Huntley to connect with the next Aberdeen train, but that wasnt an option with it being peak time (well it was an option, but I wasnt going to be paying for it). I noticed that Insch has a bad deal when it comes to off-peak tickets, as an off-peak day return towards Aberdeen (or even Inverness) isnt valid until 09:00. It has trains at 08:57 (for Aberdeen) and 08:58 (for Inverness) then nothing for 2 hours! Anyhow that is the state of the line, roughly 2 hourly off-peak with some gaps in frequency. Thankfully the next Aberdeen train was running on time and was formed of a nice cool 158712 taking me to
Dyce, but not for the bus link to Aberdeen airport as that service has been axed to all accounts!
Sadly no good views of aircraft from the nearby airport, I could hear them but not see them, Dyce is another one of those stations where you need to check the PIS as it has 2 platforms, however only one platform is used for certain services which pass there. A short time later 170427 rolled in from Edinburgh to take me back one stop to
Inverurie where it terminated in the sunshine, allowing me to clear my final 170 served shack in Scotland (woohoo!). I didnt have that long to explore the area, noting a little cafe on platform 1 (and what appears to be a large Tesco nearby):
With the line being cleared, it wasnt long before a busier 158712 returned from Aberdeen, as I managed to grab a seat for the long run back towards Inverness, arriving pretty much on time. I note the new station at Forres is coming along, as I believe the plan is to make use of the former avoiding lines alignment to build in more double track (rather than the current passing loop to the east of the station) to cut down journey times due to the sharpness of the current platform at Forres. Annoying under my rules it will mean a revisit one day as it will be a whole new station, but that wont be until next year.
Back at Inverness and I had a rough 90 minute break before the next northbound service was due to depart, so I did a bit of shopping (well browsing), purchasing a new hat and general time wasting. The Kyle service was dud, so I allowed that to go, to wait for the Wick service, where I was in two minds where to go, either get Kildonan out of the way or do the walk from Dunrobin to Golspie. In the end I flipped that magical multi-sided mental coin and after boarding a warm 158706 (for the AC had indeed failed), I made my request to the guard. Needless to say during the 15 minute waiting fester at Ardgay for the late running southbound service I wasnt the only person getting off for some fresh air (I think pretty much the entire train emptied out onto Ardgay station, including the driver!).
Nobody seemed that bothered about the enforced wait, as eventually the southbound service rolled up (it was either 720 or 725), and we got back on board carrying on, minding the massive step as I alighted at the part-time station of
Dunrobin Castle. A very pretty station it was as well.
I had my phone up displaying the route to take, a mile and a bit along the main-road. Probably wasnt the easiest walk as for the first part there was no pavement, so was a case of walking on the verge until the pavement appeared with the exit to the castle. Not sure if you could go via the castle car park without paying for entry to said castle but that would have been an easier (and safer) walk. However I reached the village/town centre, and decided to walk along the waterfront as it was a nice day (and I had time to kill). Swinging via the Co-Op for an ice-cream and some cold drinks, even having time for a selfie on the beach!
(What, you were expecting me to post my selfie?

). Eventually I returned to the road and headed to
Golspie station, passing a tower (or something) on a nearby hill. Another station with evidence of a former 2nd platform from days of old, but one with limited shade so it was a case of sitting in what shade was available, which happened to be on the platform itself, and yes the station had a PIS!
Due to the late running of the northbound service, the next southbound was also running late, however the lid of my red pen was removed as in rolled winner
158705 (which also clears the 158s for sight!). The AC felt so nice after sitting in the warm 29C air, as I took this 158 southbound for nearly 40 miles to alight at
Tain. A visit to a nearby Tesco was used to waste some time (and to get me some dinner), before I returned to the station, noting a restaurant in the former station building and good views of the water.
This sign must get a mention, except...
Anyhow it was a short wait before an empty 158713 rolled in from Ardgay, and the usual waiting game for the last northbound Wick to pass before we could continue heading towards Inverness, rolling into platform 6, but this time the 21:06 Tain service was 158705 heading back out on platform 5, waiting for 713 to clear the single line section before it could depart. For me with nothing better to do, other than catching the last Aberdeen service to Forres for an unknown unit(s) back to Inverness which I turned down to head back to the hotel room to have a longer shower and relaxing evening to catch up with the forum.
The end is in sight, 4 more shacks remain on the Far North line!