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This weekend, for the first time, I'm making the complete trip from Tallinn to Vilnius on Elron and LTG Link's coordinated schedule.
Basically - my request is: if you've done this trip recently, do you have tips or recommendations for things to look out for along the way? Sadly, I can't stop off, it's a long day of window gazing. Any tips on scenic rivers, landscapes, towns or railway infrastructure is appreciated!
I will then have a morning in Vilnius to spend exploring.
I’m in Vilnius just now. Arrived from Klaipeda yesterday. 5 hours of window gazing. Electrification not completed yet.
Passed some road/rail cars working on overhead wires. they were working on crossings as well.
It’s raining today, not just showers. So I’m still inside. But my niece, also Dutch, came to my hotel, by bike, 4+kms & have coffee with me when I was having breakfast. This was after she brought the kids to school.
The aurora gate is decorated Christo-style on the “orbi”-side & so is (part of) the town hall opposite of the hotel.
But it looks a nice place with many baroque time buildings. & I do want to take the funicular to the castle.
Hope you enjoy your stay!
Tallinn - Valga:
- There's visible construction of Rail Baltica at and around Ulmiste station.
- Electrification of Tallinn - Tartu is I believe physically complete. There should also be some brand new Skoda EMUs parked up just beyond Ulmiste.
- Between Tartu and Valga there's quite a bit of alignment straightening work going on, but no electrification as far as I'm aware.
Arrived in Tallinn late last night. Seat61 recommends some hotels in the old town, but in fact for my second time in Estonia I chose the “Hampton by Hilton” which is 10 mins from the airport on tram 2 towards the city. Modern, clean and comfy, nice rooms and a big breakfast spread, €80.
The bridge over the Daugava River in Riga is nice, and you may spot a few DR1 DMUs while on your journey. Expect lots of birch forest en route too.
A tip for your morning in Vilnius. You can walk from the station to Gediminas Hill in about 30 minutes. The walk takes you through the old town, there's a funicular up to the top of the hill, and great views over the city.
A tip for your morning in Vilnius. You can walk from the station to Gediminas Hill in about 30 minutes. The walk takes you through the old town, there's a funicular up to the top of the hill, and great views over the city.
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Tallinn - Tartu first impressions…
Arrived with at least 10 minutes to spare until departure, but the 10.18 train to Valga (on a Saturday) was already pretty busy, and I couldn’t get a window seat until Tapa. Good mix of domestic and international passengers, including several groups of young Interrailers.
The Stadler Flirt DMU is a solid piece of technology, hard to believe these are almost 15 years old. A little faded on the outside but well built on the inside. One WC for the whole train is simply not enough - there were 2-3 people waiting at all times.
But no bistro or coffee machine! Planning failure on my part, although I did buy lunch at the lovely indoor market just north of Balti Jaam.
Some slow running between Tapa and Jõgeva, lots of level crossings where near barriers and lights have yet to be energised. Also evidence of a few improved alignments. Catenary wires in place all the way to Tartu. Tartu station looks charming.
Lost time on the way but the timetable is padded and we’ll be leaving Tartu for Valga on time.
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So, I arrived in Vilnius a couple of hours ago after a very pleasant journey from Tallinn.
I have some colleagues and friends from the Baltic states so I’m very well aware of the cultural legacy of Soviet occupation and the ongoing fears of an unpredictable and violent nearby neighbour in Russia.
All day long, it was fascinating to observe the tension between the inherited legacy of Russian and Soviet infrastructure and the rapid piece of modernisation in the three countries. I saw hundreds of rusting freight cars and tankers with Russian markings parked up, while new catenary towers were being readied for installation.
All along the way I could see evidence of pretty serious investment in the infrastructure. Alignments are being straightened out and a lot of work is being spent to improve the drainage beside the permanent way, especially in Estonia between Tartu and Valga.
The simple coordination of train schedules has transformed this route. It’s unfortunate that the Elron Stadler Flirt trains aren’t quite suitable for longer distance journeys, but the LTG Link Pesa trains were a big surprise. The at-seat catering service was simple but effective. The seats are comfy and somehow the underfloor engines were less disturbing than the above floor power pack of the Stadler. It did not feel like 11 hours of travel when I got off in Vilnius this evening.
Today’s schedule was slightly different because of planned engineering works. In Lithuania in particular it was remarkable how often we had to slow to a crawl to go at walking pace across an unguarded level crossing, even on the Klaipeda - Vilnius mainline.
I am already planning to come back sometime in the future, and take a few days to do the same route. I definitely want to stop in Tartu, Cesis and Riga.
Thanks again for all the tips. I can’t recommend it enough. And if you have time to take a few days, and stop along the way, even better.
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