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As I understand it Madrid - Valencia trains are now mainly high speed (even if hybrid). Both routes cross upland territory. The route via Valencia is probably the best scenically
The full route MAD-VLC is now HiSpeed, so mostly you see screens beside. But the TransMED route VLC-BCN is nice, at some parts hugging the coast.
There is still that 1 remaining overnight Estrella train following the classic route via Zaragoza.
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