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Latvia - January 2015

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stuartmoss

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Hi folks,

In January this year I went to Latvia, and I've just booked again for next January.

During my visit this time I went to Jelgava by train, I've just been looking on the Deutsche Bahn website for times, but Jelgava doesn't seem to be appearing as a viable destination. Does anyone know if the line is currently closed?

Can anyone recommend any other destinations within a 90 minute train ride that would be worth visiting? Ideally with a few interesting buildings and some pubs.

Cheers

Stu.
 
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razor89

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90 minutes is kind of limiting given how slow the trains can be there! I visited Latvia a couple of months ago and they seemed to be in the middle of a big upgrade of the rail network, could be why Jelgava has no trains?

I've been told that Sigulda, Cesis and Ventspils are all nice places to visit, but I haven't been there myself, hoping to go again next year!

If you're up for a longer journey, there is an 'express' train to Daugavpils and back every day, takes around 3 hours each way though.
 

dutchflyer

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Jelgava is a suburban destination-on the Riga ''elektrishka'' network (till shortly still had wagonsets from RVR=the big Riga wagon/trainset factory, and these are not on bahn.de. Similar to the Spanish local cercanias trains. That does not mean there may not be works going on, though. if these are shortterm, they probably are only published locally on some noticeboards.
 

martinsh

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Full timetables for Latvia are available here

http://www.pv.lv/lv/kopejais_iekszemes_vilcienu_kustibas_saraksts/

Changes to timetable available here

http://www.pv.lv/lv/izmainas_vilcienu_saraksto/

Latvian only I'm afraid, no equivalent English page. [ But it should be obvious, as month names are more or less the same ]

I'll post some more later about places to visit etc (I've been to just about all of them), but I'm supposed to be at work at the moment !

Going to Latvia in January - you're braver than I am !:o
 

burns20

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Another reason for visiting Jelgava

http://www.latvia.travel/en/latvian-railway-history-museum-jelgava
 

gingerheid

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While in Riga you should also go to http://www.railwaymuseum.lv/ if you haven't already.

I am a big fan of Latvia in general, though more in relation to the country that it's railways. I was there a few weeks ago, and went to Jelgava.

I'm not sure what the best way to be polite about Jelgava is; it's a completely harmless town, and if you're purely interested in railways then it's not a bad place to go for that one thing, possibly the best outside Riga. It's just not particularly interesting in any other respect; the one saving grace for me was the boat trip on the river that wouldn't be running in winter. You'll have noticed that the service there isn't amazing; I took the train there and the really rather more practical bus back.

The station is big and busy with freight. The passenger side is a bit of a faded grandeur affair where the grandeur is almost completely faded, though there were a few really interesting historical boards up in the ticket hall. Until a few years ago there were a quite few random long distance services on lines that are now closed to passengers (http://parovoz.com/maps/supermap/supermap-a.php?60,233 if you can work out where Jelgava is on the map; looks like EnrABA!), so the station layout reflects a concern with a lot more than a terminating EMU on one route.

I missed the opening hours of the Jelgava museum, though I must caution that it is quite small from the outside. It is the building in the first of my photos in https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10154422605565524.1073741858.891495523&type=1&l=eb6e5a37d7

What I would say is that I spent about 2 and a half hours there in the summer on a very nice day, and the only reason this wasn't too long is because it was the summer and I got a nice 45 min boat trip. I pride myself on in general only taking photos of nice things; so apart from the extreme roadworks photo I tried to make everything else in the album above look as nice as possible.

There are a number of nice buildings that the tourist information presents very well, like some churches among the soviet flats that if photographed from one spot look really nice. The palace is a bit of a let down, you can only see large amounts of it from the river, and if you get too close on land you worry about bits of it falling on you. If you have a wider interest in transport then there's a bus factory that I think you can visit (all the buses in Jelgava are split new lovely buses from it...).

The people were friendly enough, and young people seem to know English and be willing to assist you in interactions with older people that's second language is Russian. The two beggars that approached me in the street during the 1h45 mins I was there and not sitting on a boat also spoke English, but both quickly took no for an answer.

I think the place other than Jelgava that most meets your criteria for giving you a train journey and a place that's nice to see might be Tukums. Tukums has less trains than places on Jurmala like Dzintari, but the big attraction of Jurmala might mainly be the beach and so not so much in January. It's not a place of any railway interest though; a terminus of an erratic EMU service.

Sigulda and Cesis are really nice places, though from a railway point of view also not massively interesting at all, and are quite long journeys where you could well end up finding you wanted to take one of the more frequent coaches for one direction of the journey in order to get decent timings.

What you really need to see in Latvia is http://www.banitis.lv/eng/index.htm, but it's a real mission to get to and I've no idea if it runs all year (I suspect it may not)! If you are quite mad, and willing to take the risk of getting stranded somewhere random if something is late, then you can do it as a 14 hour return day trip from Riga, but trains from Riga to Gulbene only run one or two days a week.

The train timetable at http://www.1188.lv/transport/train is quite user-friendly, and if you find that you need buses for a return journey the timetable is at http://www.autoosta.lv/?lang=en

If you like (ie PM me so I notice...) I can probably scan some of the tourist information for any town you might be interested in.
 
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stuartmoss

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Thanks for that really excellent information, much for me to consider, I will be in touch with you nearer the time.
 

johnnychips

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I'm thinking of going for three days in December. The above information is excellent. Has anybody used the buying coach tickets online option? Is there the equivalent of a Travelcard in Riga? And it does look impossible to reach the narrow gauge system at Gulbene despite daily trains operating on it.

Any additional tips and comments would be most welcome.
 
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martinsh

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I'm thinking of going for three days in December. The above information is excellent. Has anybody used the buying coach tickets online option? Is there the equivalent of a Travelcard in Riga? And it does look impossible to reach the narrow gauge system at Gulbene despite daily trains operating on it.

Any additional tips and comments would be most welcome.

There are tickets allowing unlimited use on buses, trams & trolleybuses in Riga, for 1, 3 or 5 days. Buy from machines that are located at most city centre stops (instructions in English). There was a proposal to limit them to residents of Riga only, but that certainly hadn't happened when I was last there in May.

Unfortunately, train travel is not included.

You can get to Gulbene from Riga by bus. (Though you only have 30 mins after train arrives back, before last bus departs !)
See http://www.1188.lv/satiksme/visi/saraksti?from=Riga&from-id=&fc=&to=Gulbene&to-id=&tc=


PS can you bring me back a bottle of Latvian beer ? I've run out !
 

johnnychips

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Can you recommend a good Latvian beer, then, Martin?

Thanks to the excellent links provided by you and Gingerheid, I think I might be able to do a day out on Sat 20th December:

Riga Station 0740 Gulbene 1125 Train 804
Gulbene 1300 Aluksne 1425 Train 694
Aluksne 1525 Gulbene 1645 Train 693
Gulbene 1748 Riga 2125 Train 803

If you haven't read the rest of the above thread, this is the attraction:
http://www.banitis.lv/eng/timetable.htm

Trouble is, only arrive from Donny at about midnight, so it might be difficult getting up - but the train seems to run from Riga on certain Saturdays only - so I'll investigate the coach options for the Sunday.
 
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martinsh

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I think I might be able to do a day out on Sat 20th December:

Riga Station 0740 Gulbene 1125 Train 804
Gulbene 1300 Aluksne 1425 Train 694
Aluksne 1525 Gulbene 1645 Train 693
Gulbene 1748 Riga 2125 Train 803
The train from Riga runs when there are special events on the Banitis - so a definite connection. Dec 20th is their Christmas festival. Unfortunately no details on website as yet. If you're lucky, their steam loco might be running.

Can you recommend a good Latvian beer, then, Martin?

Pretty much anything that's available at Folkklubs.
http://www.folkklubs.lv/en/drinks-list

Brengulu us probably the most uniquely Latvian, but is an acquired taste.
My favourites are Uzavas, Valmermuiza, Madonas, Ilguciema Kanepju (Cannabis beer !), and Ingvers Sarkanais.

Other places recommended are ALus Seta - great pub and beer, but limited range http://www.lido.lv/eng/companies/catering_companies/alus_seta/

Alehouse - THE place for obscure Latvian craft beer, but staff not very helpful unless you meet the owner (Gordon). OOPS "Closed until after Christmas" - what a shame.
 

johnnychips

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Thank you Martin, this info from you is marvellous. I get paid on Tuesday, so I'm going to book the flight. I have been looking at the cheapest Wizz fares from Donny to eastern Europe, and Riga turned out to be the best - and you can imagine that at Xmas some prices are ludicrous.

But Riga and Latvia look really interesting, especially having read all the above.

Do many people speak English? or German that I can just about do in tourist-speak?

I hope I'll be able to PM you if I have any queries.

John
 
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gingerheid

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Do many people speak English? or German that I can just about do in tourist-speak?

In Riga English is fine, outside Riga there might be less English speakers than in the other Baltic states, but if you do come across a non-English speaker then any young people and helpful passers by will see you good :)
 

martinsh

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In Riga English is fine, outside Riga there might be less English speakers than in the other Baltic states, but if you do come across a non-English speaker then any young people and helpful passers by will see you good :)

But of course, using a few local words won't cause any harm !

e.g. train = vilciens , Station = stacija, narrow gauge = saursliezu (official) / banitis (colloquial), beer = alus

for more local information, I thoroughly recommend the following site
http://www.inyourpocket.com/latvia/riga
 
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