Well, greetings from Italy! Currently enjoying a nice Peroni red on the terrace after a tiring but enjoyable trip down from the UK.
Originally, I had planned to get a transpennine express service to Manchester Airport but the strikes scuppered that plan. Luckily, it turned out my sister was also heading to the airport that morning and was getting a taxi. Thus, I arose at 0000 and drove up to West Yorkshire for 0200 to jump in said taxi. Unfortunately, my sister’s flight was 3 hours before mine so I arrived very early, but it was worth it for a relatively stress-free passage through the airport. I napped on a bench for a couple of hours before getting through security, which was actually really easy. My flight was with the Austrian version of Easyjet to Milan Malpensa.
The flight over was really nice, which I enjoyed after a really rough flight down to Catania last Autumn. The highlights as always when flying to Milan Malpensa were the snow/capped Alps and Italian Lakes which were resplendent. I arrived in the midst of a heat wave and the heat really was a shock to the system so I changed in the toilet into Italian mode before heading through immigration. Immigration is a bit strange at the moment in that Brits still join the EU queue for the passport gates but then have to get a manual stamp immediately afterwards. Mask wearing was also strange, with most wearing them through the terminal, but then barely anybody was in the lobby.
My next move was to head to Milano Centrale using the train. It was my first time using the Malpensa Express. It’s a fairly mundane but passable operation, costing 13 Euro and taking around 45 minutes.
I then had quite a considerable amount of time to kill before my train to the South so I took some photos, visited the excellent Bistrot Milano Centrale for Lunch, Dinner and on-train snacks courtesy of
@D6130 ’s recommendation. I also braved the heat to take some pictures of outside the station which I quickly regretted after quickly getting very hot. While loitering on a bench on the concourse, awaiting my trains appearance on the departure boards, I was approached by a Policeman and two soldiers who requested my documents, and once satisfied that I was a harmless tourist they continued asking random people for their ID. Once the sun withered I spent a bit of time watching the impressive trains at the end of the platform before boarding my train South.


My train South was Train 765 InterCityNotte from Milano Centrale to Lecce, although I would be alighting at Taranto to change there for an IC to Locri. This was my first time on an Italian Sleeper train and I was quite intrigued as to how it would be. The train certainly looked good at least.



Inside, I was impressed with the Deluxe cabin, which I thought was good value at £70. The aircon was only just keeping pace with the outside air temperature even on its highest setting, but there is also a window that really helped with ventilation once the train got moving. The train was quite busy but I could hear little noise from the cabins either side on this journey- just the occasional bark of a dog. Having been up 22 hours at boarding, I was quite keen to get off to the land of nod, but this was not to be. Some Italian Theatre had to be endured first. Trenitalia kindly provide an excellent amenity kit, and an array of pre-packaged breakfast snacks and drinks. Once underway, these were delivered to my cabin. Not all at once though, that would be far too sensible. Instead, the attendant conveyed each item to each cabin one at a time, thus requiring me to be present to recieve around 10 seperate items that were delivered over a 45 minute period. During this time I turned off the light, opened the window and enjoyed the ride out of Milan. Tonight we were heading down Italy’s East Coast towards Taranto. Once the seemingly endless procession of deliveries was completed, I proceeded to close the door and go to bed. About 20mins later, there was a knock on the door and the Capotreno was there wanting to check my ticket and passport. After that I was left in peace and I had quite good sleep. The bed was comfortable, everything worked in the cabin, the ride was generally smooth- although that was probably helped by being in the centre of the coach. There were a couple of harsh jolts when stopping at stations, but with so many station stops on this train there were always going to be some jolts. The train was going full-tilt in between stations, which was quite enjoyable as an enthusiast laid in bed- there was no sauntering like you get on some night trains.
The sleep was good and I’d set an alarm for 0700 to be awake before Bari. The room really started to warm up again so I deployed the window once more which worked well. After having breakfast, which was nicer than it looked, I opened my cabin door to be able to see both sides and watched the world go by, the scenery improving as we headed South. At Bari, the train reversed and the rear loco took us forwards. After Bari, newpapers and a very welcome espresso was brought around. We were running around 10 late at this point, which was no trouble as my connection was 20 minutes and 10 minutes is nothing considering the distance covered. 5 minutes before Taranto the sleeper attendant came around to check that I was up and ready so that I wouldn’t miss my stop.
At Taranto, it was a quick interchange across the plaform onto my next train, but making that move was quite chaotic due to the volume of people and luggage. Annoyingly, I just missed the small shunter detaching from the IC train and heading back to the depot, but I did get a picture of the diesel loco. I’ve used this rare diesel IC train before, but today I would be travelling new track as far as Sibari to complete the full length of the line.
The train was formed of 3 carriages. Access to the first two was unimpeded, but the third, and obviously the one I had been seated in was absolutely swamped with people, like a scene from Dunkirk, for reasons that I didn’t understand. I boarded one of the virtually empty carriages instead and took a seat while the rush died down. Closer to departure time, I made a move on my assigned seat and discovered the cause of the chaos- a large school party were taking up the rest of the coach and all their parents had come to the station to help them onto the train with their luggage and see them off. Once the train got moving things weren’t too bad as it was one person per seat. But, I had to laugh at all the school-related drama- the school party literally travelled one station down the line so they weren’t going far! After that, the remaining passengers were relieved and spread out across the rest of the carriage. I then very much enjoyed the journey from that point, eating my snacks as we went. Taranto was more industrial than I expected, but after that the scenery was nice and of course it looked great in the sun. We passed a couple more LHCS services on the route including one that has been recently reliveried which I think looks really nice.
