They're still available if you know where to lookThey certainly won't be available at present.
Oh, OK, so the OP might be able to get one and pay a much lower price than quoted above, if they're still available if/when they need it.They're still available if you know where to look![]()
Octopus still offer it with their 'Go' tariff - however it's not shown on their online quote tool so you'll have to ask for it specifically to get it. You need to have an EV to go onto it now though.Oh, OK, so the OP might be able to get one and pay a much lower price than quoted above, if they're still available if/when they need it.
To be fair the OP just asked the fairly simple question of 'how much does it cost', rather than opinions on if they should get oneThe questions which nobody seems to have asked so far are to me the most relevant to making the decision
- are you going to buy a new car regardless
- why are you considering an electric car
Without knowing the answers to those it's pretty impossible to give any serious opinion.
My questions are far more relevant to how much it costs than many of the replies!To be fair the OP just asked the fairly simple question of 'how much does it cost', rather than opinions on if they should get one
Both gave a very low rate per kwh overnight but for car charging only.
I’d be looking at a new car this year, yes. I’m considering an electric car to try and reduce fuel costs and environmental concerns. Fuel is one of my main outgoings and if I can reduce that and pay more at home for electricity to help out mum the that’d be great.The questions which nobody seems to have asked so far are to me the most relevant to making the decision
- are you going to buy a new car regardless
- why are you considering an electric car
Without knowing the answers to those it's pretty impossible to give any serious opinion.
This point isn't specifically aimed at you, but was prompted by your last comment.Only real world point is that quoted values for range are as cloud-cuckoo as manufacturers stated MPG ... always knew I had an indelicate right foot.
I'm not suggesting that we should go back to the days of dressing up in overcoats, scarves and gloves to go out in the car, but if you have an EV (or most PHEVs I think), and you don't actually need the heater on, you can get a small but still noticeable increase in range by turning it down or fully off.
I'm slightly surprised that other options for heating than battery-electric aren't looked at. For buses it seems to be diesel heaters which is a bit ironic, but would not some sort of storage heater be worthy of consideration, with the option to top up from the battery? If most people plug in overnight that could be warmed up then.
I actually plug in a 240v fan heater to warm the car on icy mornings before I leave home.
Indeed. Although in some better-equipped models, the heater is an air source heat pump which uses ~25% the power of an equivalent conventional heater. And if you have heated seats and steering wheel (as I do) then, used instead of cabin heat in marginally cold weather these consume way less again......With an EV, there is no "spare" heat, so heating is done electrically, and just like running a fan heater indoors, there's a cost to that.
I'm not suggesting that we should go back to the days of dressing up in overcoats, scarves and gloves to go out in the car, but if you have an EV (or most PHEVs I think), and you don't actually need the heater on, you can get a small but still noticeable increase in range by turning it down or fully off.
Mine can be scheduled to pre-heat (or cool) the interior when it's connected to a charger.If the car is on charge I'm surprised they don't allow you to programme it to run the car's heater off the mains at a set time to be ready. I expect some do.
My PHEV allows that (heating in winter, a/c in summer) by pre-setting a departure time. I think you can also use a phone app to turn it on, though I've never investigated that.If the car is on charge I'm surprised they don't allow you to programme it to run the car's heater off the mains at a set time to be ready. I expect some do.
I'm yet to see an EV which does not come with air conditioning, so I assume most of them are capable of using their air conditioning equipment in reverse to heat the car (i.e. operating as an air-sourced heat pump) - which is considerably more efficient than a normal electric heater. Or am I being too optimistic there?I'm slightly surprised that other options for heating than battery-electric aren't looked at.
I'm not sure that's actually true with more modern ICE vehicles. In my car, the heat comes on suspiciously quickly after starting from cold - I think there must be an electric heating element in the system somewhere, even if the computer disables it once the engine is warm.People don't always realise that with EVs, heating the car interior is no longer done at zero cost, unlike with IC engines. With ICEs, heat which would otherwise be dumped into the atmosphere via the radiator is instead directed into the cabin via the heater matrix. With an EV, there is no "spare" heat, so heating is done electrically, and just like running a fan heater indoors, there's a cost to that.
Does your car have a 240V socket (which I think is quite unusual on vehicles)? Because otherwise you presumably have to leave a car window open to run a cable through, which means your little fan-heater is heating the icy cold air outside, hugely reducing the efficiency.I actually plug in a 240v fan heater to warm the car on icy mornings before I leave home.
You may well be right, I know it's electrically powered on mine but I don't know exactly how. Turning the heater off definitely increases predicted electric range though.I'm yet to see an EV which does not come with air conditioning, so I assume most of them are capable of using their air conditioning equipment in reverse to heat the car (i.e. operating as an air-sourced heat pump) - which is considerably more efficient than a normal electric heater. Or am I being too optimistic there?
My last car was a diesel Focus from 2012, and on winter mornings it took a good 10 minutes driving before any warmth appeared. An earlier electric boost would have been very welcome!I'm not sure that's actually true with more modern ICE vehicles. In my car, the heat comes on suspiciously quickly after starting from cold - I think there must be an electric heating element in the system somewhere, even if the computer disables it once the engine is warm.
Compare that to another car in my family, about 15-16 years old - the heat doesn't start for quite a number of minutes.
I'm yet to see an EV which does not come with air conditioning, so I assume most of them are capable of using their air conditioning equipment in reverse to heat the car (i.e. operating as an air-sourced heat pump) - which is considerably more efficient than a normal electric heater. Or am I being too optimistic there?
I'm not sure that's actually true with more modern ICE vehicles. In my car, the heat comes on suspiciously quickly after starting from cold - I think there must be an electric heating element in the system somewhere, even if the computer disables it once the engine is warm.
Compare that to another car in my family, about 15-16 years old - the heat doesn't start for quite a number of minutes.
I've found the engine type can make a big difference, my current petrol car has no electric heater but it produces heat almost straight away same as the other petrol car in the household but the diesel one took a frustratingly long time to heat up, noticeably worse than the diesel before which I assume is due to the efficiency of the newer engine. Irritatingly the diesel (Skoda Octavia) did offer a factory fit ceramic heater but not in the UK only the colder climates despite the fact it would have definitely been useful here.I'm not sure that's actually true with more modern ICE vehicles. In my car, the heat comes on suspiciously quickly after starting from cold - I think there must be an electric heating element in the system somewhere, even if the computer disables it once the engine is warm.
Compare that to another car in my family, about 15-16 years old - the heat doesn't start for quite a number of minutes.
...
If we assume an average car with an efficiency of 3.5mi/kWh (~Mercedes EQA/MG 5 EV/Vauxhall Mokka E/Nissan Leaf are officially around this level, so reasonably representative) ....
Assume the car will do around 4 miles per kWh. Varies by vehicle.
....
It's wrong to assume that normal stop start driving in built-up areas increases energy consumption over steady c 50mph cruising. On ICVs, that presumption is based on the engine running at a steady speed at or near its most efficient level, pitched against a start stop usage where all of the energy used to accelerate is dumped into heat in the brakes or stirring the engine in overrun. With EVs, much of that energy invested in accelerating will be recovered by regeneration and returned to the battery. That is why EVs give a double benefit in urban areasOf course it depends numerous factors including journeys, driving style and congestion but if those consumption figures are on a test track they will be optimistic in the real world.
As an example look at the Vauxhall E-Mokka website page
At 40mph the range at 15degC with climate control on is is 207 mile so just over 4mi/kWh. That presumably is a constant speed not real world in a 40mph zone slowing for and accelerating from junctions. At ( a constant ? ) 60mph down to 157 miles so just over 3mi/kWh and at 70mph 125 miles so 2.5mi/kWh.
I would not work on anything better than 3mi/kWh. If your consumption was less consider it a bonus.
The government won't need to consider most of the peripheral environmental and health damage that ICVs cause which is the major justification for the Vehicle Excise Duty. There hasn't been a "road fund licence" since 1937! Roads are funded through general taxation which will continue, with the residual cost of EV pollution being recovered by a new road charging scheme where costs are related to usage.... Further while directly OT for the government to recover a similar income to fuel duty & VAT @ 20% rather than 5% they will need an average of around 7.5 p/mile. Road fund licence will either get lumped in with this at 1.5 p/mile based on an average of 10,000 miles per year or be charged at the current rates for petrol & diesel cars. Hence overall compared to now the running cost realistically will increase by around £900 for 10,000 miles per year.