How difficult is it to install a plug socket really?

[Bayum]

I’ve watched a few YouTube videos. Granted, I’m not an electrician, however it doesn’t seem that complicated?

Is there an absolute necessity for a voltmeter? Is there an absolute necessity for a padlock to go in the fuse box so it is ‘locked’ in position? I’m trying to work out if I’m able to do it myself, or if it would be too dangerous without certain pieces of equipment!

 

[Dai Corner]

I’ve watched a few YouTube videos. Granted, I’m not an electrician, however it doesn’t seem that complicated?

Is there an absolute necessity for a voltmeter? Is there an absolute necessity for a padlock to go in the fuse box so it is ‘locked’ in position? I’m trying to work out if I’m able to do it myself, or if it would be too dangerous without certain pieces of equipment!

The usual response is that you have to ask you shouldn't be doing it.

 

[Bayum]

The usual response is that you have to ask you shouldn't be doing it.

I’m not asking how to do it, I’m asking if the equipment is necessary. Two different things.

 

[GusB]

The usual response is that you have to ask you shouldn't be doing it.

I’m not asking how to do it, I’m asking if the equipment is necessary. Two different things.

Please call in a professional if you really do not know what you're doing with household electrics. You say that you're trying to work out whether or not you can do it yourself - please don't. It might cost you a bit to get a sparky in to do the job, but I'd imagine it's cheaper than a funeral.

 

[mmh]

I’ve watched a few YouTube videos. Granted, I’m not an electrician, however it doesn’t seem that complicated?

Is there an absolute necessity for a voltmeter? Is there an absolute necessity for a padlock to go in the fuse box so it is ‘locked’ in position? I’m trying to work out if I’m able to do it myself, or if it would be too dangerous without certain pieces of equipment!

It's not difficult at all, BUT... you didn't ask what you're actually doing - are you replacing an existing socket in place, or adding a new one? Very different things. I'm afraid though my advice would be don't touch it with a bargepole. "A padlock in the fuse box so it's locked" makes no sense at all - seriously, none of that question is understandable! It's one of those things that (regulations aside, too!) is pretty straightforward but don't even consider it if you've never seen it done first by someone who knows what they're doing.

Seriously, please don't!

 

[Bayum]

It's not difficult at all, BUT... you didn't ask what you're actually doing - are you replacing an existing socket in place, or adding a new one? Very different things. I'm afraid though my advice would be don't touch it with a bargepole. "A padlock in the fuse box so it's locked" makes no sense at all - seriously, none of that question is understandable! It's one of those things that (regulations aside, too!) is pretty straightforward but don't even consider it if you've never seen it done first by someone who knows what they're doing.

Seriously, please don't!

https://www.totallockout.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/red-spot-fuse-lockout-63amp-small.jpg

 

[GusB]

Why are you trying to lock your fusebox?

 

[mmh]

The usual response is that you have to ask you shouldn't be doing it.

This! Replacing an existing socket is maybe the easiest electricial job you can do, but honestly, and I'm not saying this to belittle but out of concern, please don't do it.

 

[mmh]

https://www.totallockout.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/red-spot-fuse-lockout-63amp-small.jpg

Oh, was this a "joke" post? I hope not, because there were at least three of us who were seriously concerned. Hahaha?

 

[Bayum]

Why are you trying to lock your fusebox?

Because the electrican used one... Has anybody actually read my post?

I would like to know if all the equipment an electrician might use, such as the ammeter and lock above are absolutely essential.

 

[GusB]

Because the electrican used one... Has anybody actually read my post?

I would like to know if all the equipment an electrician might use, such as the ammeter and lock above are absolutely essential.

Why not go and do a course and find out for yourself which equipment an electrician may require? If you had a burst pipe, would you question the equipment the plumber turned up with? I could go on.

If you were simply asking why an electrician needed this and that bit of kit in order to do their job, I'm fairly certain that someone on the forum would have come up with a sensible answer to explain what for and why. We're all a bit curious - what does that do, and why do you need that? However, the way you posed your question suggested that you thought that all this equipment may not be necessary and that possibly you might save yourself a few quid by doing it yourself.

If you're simply curious from an educational point of view, that's fine; I'm not an electrician, but I like to know how things work from a purely theoretical point of view. That is not the impression you gave, however. Your original post suggested that you were willing to have a go, and myself and others have quite correctly stepped in and said "No, don't!" We don't want to see you getting fried, that's all!

 

[birchesgreen]

Well you couldn't put a lock on my fuse box, its just a switch to isolate the relevant part of the house wiring. As long as you tell everyone else in the house what you are doing so they don't flick the switch back on i don't see the problem?

I've changed light switches before, all needed was a screwdriver.

 

[Geezertronic]

I'm pretty handy with home electrics and to be honest, I have never seen anyone with a domestic supply that has padlocks on their consumer unit fuses. Yes maybe on the incoming master fuse (which is not part of the consumer unit), but not the actual board itself.

The Consumer Units are usually like this:

Unless there is a specific reason why it is different, or it is one of the older type of boards

As long as the new socket is BS 1363, the same as the one being replaced, and the wiring is replicated like for like, it should be ok. You only usually come across issues where the wires are coloured black & white instead of blue & brown which may get confusing but as long as the new wiring is the same, you shouldn't blow it up But like others have said, if in doubt, get a proper spark in

 

[Harpers Tate]

My fusebox doesn't have a lock on it, and a quick look at Screwfix Online doesn't seem to indicate new boxes have one, so I'm guessing it's not needed.

As to the rest - too many unanswered questions to be more specific. Is this a completely new fusebox and socket (no previous wiring), or is it an addition to an existing, aleady wired, property? If the latter, do you need to take a fresh cable out of the fusebox, or can you extend off an existing circuit somewhere? Is the existing wiring sound - reasonably new, or ancient? Is the existing wiring done on a "ring main" system?

The easiest way to add a socket to an existing setup is to extend off that existing setup. If it's modern, it's likely to be a ring. The easiest point to access an existing installation is at an existing socket. In its simplest form, you would
- design the route for the cable from where you want the new socket to be back to the closest or easiest existing socket (note: NOT lighting installation).
- position the new socket and route the cable. Use the right type of cable. 2.5mm2 minimum. If it's concealed in a channel then I believe it has to have a protective cover over it, before you plaster over it. You may prefer to use mini-trunking on the surface if the cosmetics don't bother you.
- connect the cable to the new socket following the coloured wiring convention.
- turn off the power and ensure it stays off
- open the closest or most convenient existing socket
- bring the new cable into the back of the socket. You may need to break a hole in the back box. You should always use a rubber grommet around the hole.
- (This is the hard part): connect the cable ends into the back of the existing socket ensuring the existing cables don't disconnect as you do so. Note that, if it's a ring there will be two sets of cables already attached to that socket. Again, match the coloured wiring convention.
- reassemble the old socket, turn on the power and test.

You can't add more than one outlet to any one single point on a ring by a simple extension. If you (ever) want more then you should extend the ring itself, which is somewhat more fraught.

Have you considered simply using an extension cable, plugged in to an existing socket, clipped or concealed under floorcovering, if you prefer?

 

[najaB]

Is there an absolute necessity for a voltmeter? Is there an absolute necessity for a padlock to go in the fuse box so it is ‘locked’ in position?

I'd say that a voltmeter is highly desirable but not essential. If there's absolutely no possibility that someone else could turn the power on while you are working (e.g. it's in your house and you live alone) then the padlock isn't necessary. If there's any chance that someone could turn the power on, then you need to take precautions against it - 220V has quite the kick!

 

[AM9]

My fusebox doesn't have a lock on it, and a quick look at Screwfix Online doesn't seem to indicate new boxes have one, so I'm guessing it's not needed.

As to the rest - too many unanswered questions to be more specific. Is this a completely new fusebox and socket (no previous wiring), or is it an addition to an existing, aleady wired, property? If the latter, do you need to take a fresh cable out of the fusebox, or can you extend off an existing circuit somewhere? Is the existing wiring sound - reasonably new, or ancient? Is the existing wiring done on a "ring main" system?

The easiest way to add a socket to an existing setup is to extend off that existing setup. If it's modern, it's likely to be a ring. The easiest point to access an existing installation is at an existing socket. In its simplest form, you would
- design the route for the cable from where you want the new socket to be back to the closest or easiest existing socket (note: NOT lighting installation).
- position the new socket and route the cable. Use the right type of cable. 2.5mm2 minimum. If it's concealed in a channel then I believe it has to have a protective cover over it, before you plaster over it. You may prefer to use mini-trunking on the surface if the cosmetics don't bother you.
- connect the cable to the new socket following the coloured wiring convention.
- turn off the power and ensure it stays off
- open the closest or most convenient existing socket
- bring the new cable into the back of the socket. You may need to break a hole in the back box. You should always use a rubber grommet around the hole.
- (This is the hard part): connect the cable ends into the back of the existing socket ensuring the existing cables don't disconnect as you do so. Note that, if it's a ring there will be two sets of cables already attached to that socket. Again, match the coloured wiring convention.
- reassemble the old socket, turn on the power and test.

You can't add more than one outlet to any one single point on a ring by a simple extension. If you (ever) want more then you should extend the ring itself, which is somewhat more fraught.

Have you considered simply using an extension cable, plugged in to an existing socket, clipped or concealed under floorcovering, if you prefer?

You haven't mentioned about restrictions on where an outlet can be located (is not in a 'special location' or in 'zones' as defined in part P regulations.
You haven't mentioned the limitations on routing to a location on a wall where the wire is hidden, i.e. no horizontal paths except withing 150mm (ISTR) from the ceiling or floor) - all others paths to be vertically.
You haven't mentioned the requirement that no more than half of the outlets on a circuit can be as spurs, (that's assuming that the circuit is a ring, - it may be radial).
You haven't mentioned that the resistances back to the fuse/mcb location should be measured to ensure adequate circuit protection.​

These are the reasons why those who know how to do it properly are reluctant to offer ad hoc advice. Yes, the OP might get away with no safety or reliability issues over the next 25+ years (the expected life of domestic wiring) but many home jobs don't end that way.

 

[DarloRich]

I’ve watched a few YouTube videos. Granted, I’m not an electrician, however it doesn’t seem that complicated?

Is there an absolute necessity for a voltmeter? Is there an absolute necessity for a padlock to go in the fuse box so it is ‘locked’ in position? I’m trying to work out if I’m able to do it myself, or if it would be too dangerous without certain pieces of equipment!

Are you talking about installing a new socket or simply replacing an old one? I would get someone qualified in for a brand new socket. I would replace an existing on myself.

 

[beeza1]

Locking the fuse box or isolator is common practice in industry, I still have my old "lock off" with provision for up to 6 padlocks in case more than one person is working on the equipment.
Even when you think the power is "switched off" the first thing you need to do is check it is actually "off" so I would say a voltmeter is essential.
I was under the impression electrics had gone the same way as gas, ie, you had to be suitably qualified to work on electrics, how this rule could be enforced is another matter seeing as most electrical fittings etc are available over the counter.
To the OP, I will echo what previous posters have advised, Get a professional to do the job.

 

[najaB]

I was under the impression electrics had gone the same way as gas, ie, you had to be suitably qualified to work on electrics...

Only in 'the zones'.

 

[Bletchleyite]

Only in 'the zones'.

Not even then - all DIY domestic electrical work is permitted. There is just a requirement to obtain Building Regulations approval for certain items, which are *roughly*:

- Work in the bathroom "zones" which means close to the bath/shower basically

- Consumer unit replacement (this I think is damn silly, as were it not for this I'd have replaced mine with a modern one with RCD by now making my installation safer; I like to stick to the rules and am penalised, those who don't like to stick to them just ignore them anyway, but I can't be bothered getting a tradesman in more because of the hassle than the cost, which is the same reason I can't be bothered with a building regulations application, so the work remains undone)

- New circuit back to the consumer unit

Other than that you have to be "competent", but that does not require membership of a competent person scheme, simply that you don't screw the job up. If you do the job correctly per the current Wiring Regulations and know why it was correct, you were by definition competent.

 

[najaB]

If you do the job correctly per the current Wiring Regulations and know why it was correct, you were by definition competent.

I was under the impression that your competence was based on certification, rather than just not screwing it up.

 

[Bletchleyite]

Even when you think the power is "switched off" the first thing you need to do is check it is actually "off" so I would say a voltmeter is essential.

A tester screwdriver is quite adequate for that purpose.

A good way of ensuring the supply remains off is to remove the breaker/fuse for the circuit you are working on and stick it in your pocket.

 

[Bletchleyite]

I was under the impression that your competence was based on certification, rather than just not screwing it up.

It isn't defined in the case of electricity, which means it reverts to the common law definition i.e. "you know what you are doing". If you do it correctly and understand why it was correct, that means you did know what you were doing. If you do it incorrectly, that means you didn't.

The one exception to this is notifiable ("Part P") work as I listed in my other post, the scope of which was reduced substantially by the present Government (conveniently this occurred just in time for me to want to do some kitchen and bathroom work). This either requires a Building Regulations application and inspection or someone who is a member of one of the specific Competent Person schemes.

The main reason for all this was to stop cowboy tradesmen, not DIYers who, by and large, take pride in doing a good job even if it takes them a long time to do so. While I do like to follow the rules so don't DIY notifiable work, in practice a DIYer who does a job correctly, even a notifiable one, but doesn't notify it, isn't going to get caught. It can cause minor hassle when selling a house, but in practice only the pickiest buyer wouldn't accept the combination of a general inspection of the electrical installation (a PIR report) and one of those building regs breach insurance policies, which show clearly how rare a claim is by costing about 30 quid.

 

[Bayum]

Are you talking about installing a new socket or simply replacing an old one? I would get someone qualified in for a brand new socket. I would replace an existing on myself.

Just replacing, not installing a new one.

 

[DarloRich]

Just replacing, not installing a new one.

that should be possible for a non qualified person as long you can replace like for like. however see below:

As long as the new socket is BS 1363, the same as the one being replaced, and the wiring is replicated like for like, it should be ok. You only usually come across issues where the wires are coloured black & white instead of blue & brown which may get confusing but as long as the new wiring is the same, you shouldn't blow it up But like others have said, if in doubt, get a proper spark in

Good advice - Before my rewire my house was worse than that. 1940's wiring. Colours all over the place. Some of them faded, some of the rubber sheathings perished. Twisted cord light fitting flex, massive brick like main fuse, 1940's board etc, ancient meter. He used it as a learning point for his apprentice as it was not common and he hadn't seen that kind of wiring for years! Said it took him back to when he was an apprentice and learning the job. I was fascinated.

https://www.totallockout.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/red-spot-fuse-lockout-63amp-small.jpg

you don't have to use one of those things & i haven't seen one in a domestic situation although it seems a sensible "not to be moved" indicator - I suspect they are more for place where more than one person might have access to the fuse box or the fuse box is in a public place.

A good way of ensuring the supply remains off is to remove the breaker/fuse for the circuit you are working on and stick it in your pocket.

Agreed.

 

[PeterC]

Are you talking about installing a new socket or simply replacing an old one? I would get someone qualified in for a brand new socket. I would replace an existing on myself.

Same here. The only time that I felt the need to use an electrican for a replacement was when I found that the original installation looked botched.

While locking the fuse box sounds excessive there is always the risk of somebody else in the house doing doing something stupid. I was once up a ladder replacing a damaged down pipe from the bathroom washbasin. The former SWMBO decided to use the loo and I heard her washing her hands. I was in the middle of drilling new screw holes so I called out to her not to pull the plug out, which she ignores leaving me on a ladder holding a live electric drill as far from the water as I could reach. Apparrently being nearly electrocuted was my fault for "shouting at her".

 

[beeza1]

A tester screwdriver is quite adequate for that purpose.

A good way of ensuring the supply remains off is to remove the breaker/fuse for the circuit you are working on and stick it in your pocket.

Tester screwdriver adequate? probably, would I rely on one? definitely not.
It's probably down to my background being industrial, where such items were frowned upon, in fact one of the electricians would throw it in the scrap if he saw one anywhere on site.
I agree it's a good idea to remove the fuse, but you still need to check the power is off.

 

[AM9]

A tester screwdriver is quite adequate for that purpose.

Make sure that you don't replace the fuse in it!

A good way of ensuring the supply remains off is to remove the breaker/fuse for the circuit you are working on and stick it in your pocket.

The MCBs in most domestic consumer units aren't usually plug-in unfortunately.

 

[Harpers Tate]

Just replacing, not installing a new one.

Wish you'd said that in the first place.....

 

[AM9]

... The one exception to this is notifiable ("Part P") work as I listed in my other post, the scope of which was reduced substantially by the present Government (conveniently this occurred just in time for me to want to do some kitchen and bathroom work). This either requires a Building Regulations application and inspection or someone who is a member of one of the specific Competent Person schemes. ...

About 13 years ago, just after the original Part P regs were introduced, we were having a new bathroom. The project included electrical work for which a certificated electrician provided a quote. The consumer unit area was a bit of a mess with the original 6 way CU feeding another 4 way. I decided to clean it up myself using the LA building control office. For £100 + vat (15%) they sent someone who inspected and discussed the job first, then revisited to inspect and test. I borrowed a megger which also had a low-ohms capability, and even changed the meter tails, (I asked a neighbour to watch me just in case anything went wrong, - he also threw a line over to power a lamp). All went through OK, (but the bathroom electrical work that I paid £750 for, failed its separate inspection on an earthing irregularity).