For the first time in a few years I took myself off last month for a short train-riding break, based in Fort William and Inverness and using a 4-in-8 Highland Rover ticket. I wanted to cover the routes for the first time in many years (40+ for the Far North), to check out the 153 bike carrier and to enjoy HSTs before they go. The weather was excellent on the West Coast and coming home via Settle, cold and grey in Wick and sea-fret in Aberdeen.
I've posted separately about TPE First Class catering on the way to and from Scotland, so this starts in Glasgow, exiting Central in the top left corner and finding my way to Queen Street. The 1222 Mallaig was platformed but not announced when I arrived, but there was obviously a problem further out (Cowlairs I suspect) as incoming trains were delayed, including the 2-car Oban portion; an issue was still being reported some hours later. We eventually left 12 down and lost a few more minutes approaching Dalmuir, but made it all up by Mallaig; it was the only significant delay of the week.
I'd found a seat in the 153, and very comfortable it was too. The train was well-loaded, particularly the Oban portion.
Although I had booked a room in Fort William, I decided to go on to Mallaig (moving to a 156 as the 153 stays in FTW) and enjoyed fish and chips during the turnround. The 1815 return was, unsurprisingly, very lightly loaded, so I was able to enjoy the scenery in peace.
Next day was Friday, and having started early from Shipley I pottered round FTW before catching the late morning train; this was full, not surprisingly, and there might be a case for diagramming a further 153 on this and the back working.
At Crianlarich I ate my Morrisons meal deal in the sun before boarding the Oban portion of the 1222 where I did well to find a window seat - the train was full this time. The Highland Rover covers various bus routes, and I returned to base on the 1557 West Coast Motors service which was busy at first with school children but had only 3 through passengers.
I now needed to switch to Inverness; I'd spent some time trying to incorporate the Armadale-Kyle route and had eventually given up as the bus doesn't run on Saturdays and I had to use a weekend for the trip. So I was up early for the 0735 Citylink to Inverness (a Shiel Buses vehicle), a pleasant (and monster-less) run through the Great Glen. This gave me an hour at Inverness for a coffee and exploration before I joined the 1041 to Wick and back, a moderately-loaded 158 and an uneventful run; I couldn't include the John o'Groats bus or the route south through Lybster as bus timetables do not permit.
Sunday I checked out the Episcopalian Cathedral and then caught a 4-car Inter7City down to Aviemore for a round trip on the Speyside line. This was very quiet, and the Ivatt 2MT was paired with a Brush 2 D6582 because of the fire risk, so all-in-all not very exciting with long station stops seemingly to make the trip long enough for the afternoon tea service (I might have sampled this, but solo travellers are not catered for.). Back to Inverness on a 5-car arriving at 1745, and off into town for a meal.
Monday was my fourth Rover day, and the Kyle and Aberdeen lines remained. The 0855 was reasonably busy; I took it to Plockton, which I'd been planning to visit for many years; I spent a couple of hours exploring and eating a very good lunch before heading back to the station. I'd been in two minds about doing the last few miles to Kyle, as it was only 10 years or so since I'd last been there; in the end the decision was made for me as I left it too late, so, spotting a sign to "Duncraig 1 mile" I turned off the road and headed along a lochside footpath. Unfortunately I missed an unmarked turning and 1 mile turned into a 2-mile route-march
However, dear reader, I was not stranded, and made it back to Inverness for the 1720 to Aberdeen, a pleasant run which carried a reasonable number of commuters to start with.
I had time next morning, as the sea-fret had cleared, to explore the city centre with its fine buildings (granite, naturally) and then caught my final HST down to Stirling; here I alighted for a brisk walk to the castle, and then a 385 to Alloa and back, which I had never done (tick); I then noticed a class 3 HST on RTT, so I stopped to see what it was - a "test" apparently, and it calls all stations to Stirling. That left me with a half-hour run on a 170 from Aberdeen back to Queen St, and time for a circuit of the Subway to check out the new trains.
Some final thoughts:
Trains:
all in the adequate-to-good category, though showing their age a bit (except, interestingly, the 156s I used) and tolerably comfortable, warm and clean - and punctual (which goes for TPE as well, apart from the stock being new!)
Ticketing:
the Rover is excellent value; I also had a Day Return for Aviemore, an Advance for Aberdeen to Stirling, and a Glasgow-Alloa return for the final bits. I split at Lancaster out and Carlisle back which is pretty obvious as I was changing class as well as train.
Scenery:
the Mallaig Extension beats them all (even the Settle and Carlisle!) on a "bang for buck" basis - so much variety in such a short journey. I'm not sure which I would place second - West Highland for its remoteness north of Crianlarich or Kyle for variety again? - but it doesn't matter, both are in the playoffs, and I think Oban gets there too
The Far North
I was pleased to have revisited, but it's rather a slow burner, especially with the first hour or so being through pleasant farming lowlands. I'll go again sometime, perhaps combined with buses along the NC500 route if that's possible (or my daughter fancies Orkney..).
Accommodation:
for whatever reason Fort William was very expensive (for food, too, but I am used to Yorkshire prices) - I stayed at a curious place close to the station called Waterfront Lodge which is Travelodge quality but with an excellent hospitality tray; it was cheaper than the Premier Inn, and I didn't fancy being a couple of miles out of town.
By contrast Fairwinds B and B in Inverness was excellent and only 15min from the station, and I recommend it!
Aberdeen is cheap by contrast - I stayed in the Ibis near the harbour which was as expected (room only).
Photos: just a couple off my phone, haven't dealt with the rest, sorry. The Strathspey one was at Boat of Garten, the gorse (amazing this year) at Duncraig.
I've posted separately about TPE First Class catering on the way to and from Scotland, so this starts in Glasgow, exiting Central in the top left corner and finding my way to Queen Street. The 1222 Mallaig was platformed but not announced when I arrived, but there was obviously a problem further out (Cowlairs I suspect) as incoming trains were delayed, including the 2-car Oban portion; an issue was still being reported some hours later. We eventually left 12 down and lost a few more minutes approaching Dalmuir, but made it all up by Mallaig; it was the only significant delay of the week.
I'd found a seat in the 153, and very comfortable it was too. The train was well-loaded, particularly the Oban portion.
Although I had booked a room in Fort William, I decided to go on to Mallaig (moving to a 156 as the 153 stays in FTW) and enjoyed fish and chips during the turnround. The 1815 return was, unsurprisingly, very lightly loaded, so I was able to enjoy the scenery in peace.
Next day was Friday, and having started early from Shipley I pottered round FTW before catching the late morning train; this was full, not surprisingly, and there might be a case for diagramming a further 153 on this and the back working.
At Crianlarich I ate my Morrisons meal deal in the sun before boarding the Oban portion of the 1222 where I did well to find a window seat - the train was full this time. The Highland Rover covers various bus routes, and I returned to base on the 1557 West Coast Motors service which was busy at first with school children but had only 3 through passengers.
I now needed to switch to Inverness; I'd spent some time trying to incorporate the Armadale-Kyle route and had eventually given up as the bus doesn't run on Saturdays and I had to use a weekend for the trip. So I was up early for the 0735 Citylink to Inverness (a Shiel Buses vehicle), a pleasant (and monster-less) run through the Great Glen. This gave me an hour at Inverness for a coffee and exploration before I joined the 1041 to Wick and back, a moderately-loaded 158 and an uneventful run; I couldn't include the John o'Groats bus or the route south through Lybster as bus timetables do not permit.
Sunday I checked out the Episcopalian Cathedral and then caught a 4-car Inter7City down to Aviemore for a round trip on the Speyside line. This was very quiet, and the Ivatt 2MT was paired with a Brush 2 D6582 because of the fire risk, so all-in-all not very exciting with long station stops seemingly to make the trip long enough for the afternoon tea service (I might have sampled this, but solo travellers are not catered for.). Back to Inverness on a 5-car arriving at 1745, and off into town for a meal.
Monday was my fourth Rover day, and the Kyle and Aberdeen lines remained. The 0855 was reasonably busy; I took it to Plockton, which I'd been planning to visit for many years; I spent a couple of hours exploring and eating a very good lunch before heading back to the station. I'd been in two minds about doing the last few miles to Kyle, as it was only 10 years or so since I'd last been there; in the end the decision was made for me as I left it too late, so, spotting a sign to "Duncraig 1 mile" I turned off the road and headed along a lochside footpath. Unfortunately I missed an unmarked turning and 1 mile turned into a 2-mile route-march
However, dear reader, I was not stranded, and made it back to Inverness for the 1720 to Aberdeen, a pleasant run which carried a reasonable number of commuters to start with.I had time next morning, as the sea-fret had cleared, to explore the city centre with its fine buildings (granite, naturally) and then caught my final HST down to Stirling; here I alighted for a brisk walk to the castle, and then a 385 to Alloa and back, which I had never done (tick); I then noticed a class 3 HST on RTT, so I stopped to see what it was - a "test" apparently, and it calls all stations to Stirling. That left me with a half-hour run on a 170 from Aberdeen back to Queen St, and time for a circuit of the Subway to check out the new trains.
Some final thoughts:
Trains:
all in the adequate-to-good category, though showing their age a bit (except, interestingly, the 156s I used) and tolerably comfortable, warm and clean - and punctual (which goes for TPE as well, apart from the stock being new!)
Ticketing:
the Rover is excellent value; I also had a Day Return for Aviemore, an Advance for Aberdeen to Stirling, and a Glasgow-Alloa return for the final bits. I split at Lancaster out and Carlisle back which is pretty obvious as I was changing class as well as train.
Scenery:
the Mallaig Extension beats them all (even the Settle and Carlisle!) on a "bang for buck" basis - so much variety in such a short journey. I'm not sure which I would place second - West Highland for its remoteness north of Crianlarich or Kyle for variety again? - but it doesn't matter, both are in the playoffs, and I think Oban gets there too
The Far NorthI was pleased to have revisited, but it's rather a slow burner, especially with the first hour or so being through pleasant farming lowlands. I'll go again sometime, perhaps combined with buses along the NC500 route if that's possible (or my daughter fancies Orkney..).
Accommodation:
for whatever reason Fort William was very expensive (for food, too, but I am used to Yorkshire prices) - I stayed at a curious place close to the station called Waterfront Lodge which is Travelodge quality but with an excellent hospitality tray; it was cheaper than the Premier Inn, and I didn't fancy being a couple of miles out of town.
By contrast Fairwinds B and B in Inverness was excellent and only 15min from the station, and I recommend it!
Aberdeen is cheap by contrast - I stayed in the Ibis near the harbour which was as expected (room only).
Photos: just a couple off my phone, haven't dealt with the rest, sorry. The Strathspey one was at Boat of Garten, the gorse (amazing this year) at Duncraig.
