I bought a couple of 10-day 1st class Interrails in the Black Friday sale, knowing I should be able to use them sometime this year and catch up on some travels.
My daughter had a week's leave which she planned to use for an Alpine walking holiday and suggested I come too. We agreed on the Dolomites which was new territory for both of us, and I decided to add on a few nights around Austria - but not to use all 10 days because of prior engagements. So:
Sunday 11 June: I had booked a round trip on the Mariazellerbahn, with the bonus of steam. I'd last visited in 1974 or so, when the classic 1099 Bo-Bos were working, but had to cut the trip short at Gösing, the summit station after the long climb up from Laubenbachmühle. This time it was to be the full trip, which is only about EUR25 more than a normal return (Interrail not valid, it's a NÖVOG line), so pretty good value. After dumping my bag at the hotel (nearby but not wonderful) I headed back to the lounge for coffee and a croissant, leaving part of my NJ breakfast for later, then on to St Pölten on a 4010 KISS double-decker.
The steam train was full - I had got one of the last 3 seats in 2nd - and very much a family/group outing rather than an enthusiast special. Fortunately I was next to (yet another) observation car, this time with a sort of cage not a solid roof, though it did mean a constant procession of people to and fro - me included of course. Loco was the usual Mh6 0-8+4 (articulated tender) as on the Waldviertelbahn, followed by staff van, open coach, 2x2nd, bar car (of course!) and 1st.
The first part of the journey is flat, but then follows the narrow and winding Pielach valley to the combined station and EMU depot at Laubenbachmühle. Here there's a water stop, allowing the regular "Stairway to Heaven" EMU to overtake, and the local brass band to show off
From the restart Mh-6 gave a really impressive (audiovisual) performance over the long and winding climb to the summit, after which it's pleasantly downhill to the pilgrimage town of Mariazell (or rather, to the terminus which is a good mile short!). I got myself a decent lunch in town, inspected the Abbey church, and headed back. I'd noted that Mariazell has a museum tramway - a curious standard gauge electric affair which I know little about, but discovered they were running a steam service with an 060T "Stammersdorf" plus a vintage Vienna tramcar on a shorter route. I misunderstood the two separate timetables so missed the steam working but enjoyed (with two other Brits) the tram before heading home. Again a good climb to Gösing, but from there it's downhill all the way, pleasant but unexciting - and finally back to Vienna (another 4010).
Monday 12: I wanted to tick off a few Austrian lines. First was the little-known route from Wiener Neustadt to Graz via Aspang and Fehring. To get there I took the 0805 hauled service to Villach, one of the new workings introduced this year, booked 4 coaches and an 1144 electric but only 3 behind a 1216 - as a bonus it took the Pottendorf route instead of the main line through Baden.
Wiener Neustadt was busy with school groups heading to their traditional year end residential. The 0903 was formed off an inward class 5022 DMU, and I was impressed that a second unit was added immediately to cope with the loading. Groups apart, there were few passengers - the line is just about the only one in Austria that doesn't run to at least a 2-hourly service.
As far as Fehring it's a lovely run across the grain of the country with sinuous curves, steep grades, tunnels, viaducts and loads of forests and fields (plus un-barriered level crossings). At Fehring the train joins the secondary main line from Budapest and becomes part of the Graz S-Bahn network.
I had a 10-min connection at Graz into my onward Railjet over the Koralmbahn route to Klagenfurt and Villach; it was a few minutes late, but made up the time, and I enjoyed a light lunch as we travelled over the impressive new line and onward. At Villach it was back to loco-haulage over the scenic Tauern route to Bischofshofen - another 1216 vice 1144, but this time 4 coaches as booked (again lightly loaded). After a break train-watching, my final leg was in a class 4744 Interregio EMU to Schladming, where I'd booked a couple of nights' break as 3 long days' train-riding is enough for me these days!
Thursday 15: After a trip up the Dachstein, one of the cable-cars included in the Schladming visitor card, rail travel resumed at lunchtime with a lightly-loaded stopper to Selzthal, a quieter, rather faded version of Rugby with bays at each end of a long island platform. In one of said bays was my onward train to Linz, a 5-car CityShuttle push-pull headed by an 1142 (so at least I got my classic electric haulage!). This took my north over the Phyrnbahn to Linz, a line I'd last done in 1972 in a Schienenbus-Eilzug; again good scenery until nearing Linz and a comfortable run.
I needed a meal before the day's last leg, and Googlemaps had thrown up an interesting restaurant called "Tramway." The trek with bag in 30+deg heat and thundery humidity was worth it - pictures of old Linz tramcars to look at and excellent food served under a horse-chestnut in the courtyard.
Back to the station for my last train, an EC to Munich via Simbach, which meant diesel haulage from Wels. It had only started running that week, coinciding with major engineering work on the Vienna to Nuremberg via Passau route. 7 coaches, including a couple of ex-nightjet compartment 2nds and my 1st which had several 4-seat Executive compartments, one for each passenger! No restaurant car as OeBB have withdrawn their hauled ones, but drinks and snacks. Sounds good? Well, it was a lovely evening for a leisurely run through rolling countryside on secondary lines - but unfortunately the Westbahn was struggling and my train was 25 down from Linz, lost its path on the single line, and was +40 into Germany. And the hotel in Munich was nothing to write home about
The line runs through Mühldorf, which I knew was the centre of an extensive diesel network, but I hadn't expected to see quite so many locos parked up, not only passenger 218s and 245s, but loads of class 66 etc.
Friday 16. I had already decided not to rely on a 9min connection at Stuttgart for Paris, but I was awake early and decided I would head off on an even earlier ICE, eating breakfast on the way. All straightforward, except that leaving Ulm I realised we were using the old route - as booked, I hadn't thought to check, and so I missed the Neubaustrecke again
Stuttgart to Paris was uneventful, but the temperature was in the mid-30s which made the queue for my Eurostar pretty unpleasant - and to cap it all, the booked 373 was a failure on arrival and the resulting set swap meant a 55min late arrival in London. At least it was to a 374, which meant empty seats!
My plan to catch the 1800 to Doncaster for a Signature meal was scuppered, but a brisk walk to Platform 0 got me on the 1839 direct to Leeds (which was almost full in 1st BTW); a special stop at Peterborough meant a 6min late arrival at Leeds but Northern held the unofficial connection (my daughter says this isn't unusual) and I was back in Saltaire at 2118, only half an hour later than booked.
All in all an excellent trip, with only 3 significant delays (none of them the fault of DB despite its reputation) and no other issues. Memos to self: remember to check for engineering works as you don't get 12 weeks' notice on the mainland unless it's really major; and avoid Gare du Nord at weekends!
The photos: Executive class in the EC behind a 2016 (at Wels); Mh6 and the Mariazellerbahn - and the remains of the Dachstein Glacier.
My daughter had a week's leave which she planned to use for an Alpine walking holiday and suggested I come too. We agreed on the Dolomites which was new territory for both of us, and I decided to add on a few nights around Austria - but not to use all 10 days because of prior engagements. So:
Sunday 11 June: I had booked a round trip on the Mariazellerbahn, with the bonus of steam. I'd last visited in 1974 or so, when the classic 1099 Bo-Bos were working, but had to cut the trip short at Gösing, the summit station after the long climb up from Laubenbachmühle. This time it was to be the full trip, which is only about EUR25 more than a normal return (Interrail not valid, it's a NÖVOG line), so pretty good value. After dumping my bag at the hotel (nearby but not wonderful) I headed back to the lounge for coffee and a croissant, leaving part of my NJ breakfast for later, then on to St Pölten on a 4010 KISS double-decker.
The steam train was full - I had got one of the last 3 seats in 2nd - and very much a family/group outing rather than an enthusiast special. Fortunately I was next to (yet another) observation car, this time with a sort of cage not a solid roof, though it did mean a constant procession of people to and fro - me included of course. Loco was the usual Mh6 0-8+4 (articulated tender) as on the Waldviertelbahn, followed by staff van, open coach, 2x2nd, bar car (of course!) and 1st.
The first part of the journey is flat, but then follows the narrow and winding Pielach valley to the combined station and EMU depot at Laubenbachmühle. Here there's a water stop, allowing the regular "Stairway to Heaven" EMU to overtake, and the local brass band to show off
From the restart Mh-6 gave a really impressive (audiovisual) performance over the long and winding climb to the summit, after which it's pleasantly downhill to the pilgrimage town of Mariazell (or rather, to the terminus which is a good mile short!). I got myself a decent lunch in town, inspected the Abbey church, and headed back. I'd noted that Mariazell has a museum tramway - a curious standard gauge electric affair which I know little about, but discovered they were running a steam service with an 060T "Stammersdorf" plus a vintage Vienna tramcar on a shorter route. I misunderstood the two separate timetables so missed the steam working but enjoyed (with two other Brits) the tram before heading home. Again a good climb to Gösing, but from there it's downhill all the way, pleasant but unexciting - and finally back to Vienna (another 4010).
Monday 12: I wanted to tick off a few Austrian lines. First was the little-known route from Wiener Neustadt to Graz via Aspang and Fehring. To get there I took the 0805 hauled service to Villach, one of the new workings introduced this year, booked 4 coaches and an 1144 electric but only 3 behind a 1216 - as a bonus it took the Pottendorf route instead of the main line through Baden.
Wiener Neustadt was busy with school groups heading to their traditional year end residential. The 0903 was formed off an inward class 5022 DMU, and I was impressed that a second unit was added immediately to cope with the loading. Groups apart, there were few passengers - the line is just about the only one in Austria that doesn't run to at least a 2-hourly service.
As far as Fehring it's a lovely run across the grain of the country with sinuous curves, steep grades, tunnels, viaducts and loads of forests and fields (plus un-barriered level crossings). At Fehring the train joins the secondary main line from Budapest and becomes part of the Graz S-Bahn network.
I had a 10-min connection at Graz into my onward Railjet over the Koralmbahn route to Klagenfurt and Villach; it was a few minutes late, but made up the time, and I enjoyed a light lunch as we travelled over the impressive new line and onward. At Villach it was back to loco-haulage over the scenic Tauern route to Bischofshofen - another 1216 vice 1144, but this time 4 coaches as booked (again lightly loaded). After a break train-watching, my final leg was in a class 4744 Interregio EMU to Schladming, where I'd booked a couple of nights' break as 3 long days' train-riding is enough for me these days!
Thursday 15: After a trip up the Dachstein, one of the cable-cars included in the Schladming visitor card, rail travel resumed at lunchtime with a lightly-loaded stopper to Selzthal, a quieter, rather faded version of Rugby with bays at each end of a long island platform. In one of said bays was my onward train to Linz, a 5-car CityShuttle push-pull headed by an 1142 (so at least I got my classic electric haulage!). This took my north over the Phyrnbahn to Linz, a line I'd last done in 1972 in a Schienenbus-Eilzug; again good scenery until nearing Linz and a comfortable run.
I needed a meal before the day's last leg, and Googlemaps had thrown up an interesting restaurant called "Tramway." The trek with bag in 30+deg heat and thundery humidity was worth it - pictures of old Linz tramcars to look at and excellent food served under a horse-chestnut in the courtyard.
Back to the station for my last train, an EC to Munich via Simbach, which meant diesel haulage from Wels. It had only started running that week, coinciding with major engineering work on the Vienna to Nuremberg via Passau route. 7 coaches, including a couple of ex-nightjet compartment 2nds and my 1st which had several 4-seat Executive compartments, one for each passenger! No restaurant car as OeBB have withdrawn their hauled ones, but drinks and snacks. Sounds good? Well, it was a lovely evening for a leisurely run through rolling countryside on secondary lines - but unfortunately the Westbahn was struggling and my train was 25 down from Linz, lost its path on the single line, and was +40 into Germany. And the hotel in Munich was nothing to write home about
The line runs through Mühldorf, which I knew was the centre of an extensive diesel network, but I hadn't expected to see quite so many locos parked up, not only passenger 218s and 245s, but loads of class 66 etc. Friday 16. I had already decided not to rely on a 9min connection at Stuttgart for Paris, but I was awake early and decided I would head off on an even earlier ICE, eating breakfast on the way. All straightforward, except that leaving Ulm I realised we were using the old route - as booked, I hadn't thought to check, and so I missed the Neubaustrecke again
Stuttgart to Paris was uneventful, but the temperature was in the mid-30s which made the queue for my Eurostar pretty unpleasant - and to cap it all, the booked 373 was a failure on arrival and the resulting set swap meant a 55min late arrival in London. At least it was to a 374, which meant empty seats!
My plan to catch the 1800 to Doncaster for a Signature meal was scuppered, but a brisk walk to Platform 0 got me on the 1839 direct to Leeds (which was almost full in 1st BTW); a special stop at Peterborough meant a 6min late arrival at Leeds but Northern held the unofficial connection (my daughter says this isn't unusual) and I was back in Saltaire at 2118, only half an hour later than booked.
All in all an excellent trip, with only 3 significant delays (none of them the fault of DB despite its reputation) and no other issues. Memos to self: remember to check for engineering works as you don't get 12 weeks' notice on the mainland unless it's really major; and avoid Gare du Nord at weekends!
The photos: Executive class in the EC behind a 2016 (at Wels); Mh6 and the Mariazellerbahn - and the remains of the Dachstein Glacier.
