Our new ticketing site is now live! Using either this or the original site (both powered by TrainSplit) helps support the running of the forum with every ticket purchase! Find out more and ask any questions/give us feedback in this thread!
See, easy! Of course, the big challenge at the moment is getting past all the boxes and boxes of stuff to be able to build said storage! (I think we have every single drawing, school book, etc for the kids from 2 til end of primary....). Not to mention the dismantled IKEA furniture (no, that doesn't fit either!), Xmas decorations and God knows what else.
The loft is awkward as it's a purlin and angle brace arrangement. This does lend itself to using the low corners under the eaves for storage... But at the wrong height, the railway top is remarkably close to the underside of the (rather hefty) purlin, and if brought inside it, it makes the curves a fair bit tighter. Not to mention the builder shoved the chimney through the lot about a third in from the walls!
I need to actually put something up temporarily to get an idea of height, depth etc... But back to the clutter!
Meanwhile, a couple more chassis built up... Both for the remaining 1/044 opens, two different vac fitted versions....
Ready for priming.
== Doublepost prevention - post automatically merged: ==
@Cowley Well, I had a spare few hours, so I have started insulation of the shed.... Still stuck for a suitable layout idea, and a way of dealing with the door (without having to resort to U shape end to end....), but a start....
== Doublepost prevention - post automatically merged: ==
@Cowley Well, I had a spare few hours, so I have started insulation of the shed.... Still stuck for a suitable layout idea, and a way of dealing with the door (without having to resort to U shape end to end....), but a start....
Bought the what-if NSE liveried 4DD in the Rails of Sheffield flash sale a couple months back. Not bad for £170!
The blue wasn’t correct (in typical KR fashion), so took the opportunity to carry out a full respray into another what-if livery. Havnig finally got started (kids gone back to nursery), the unit has been disassembled, stripped and primed ready for painting. Additionally, the front end has been remodelled slightly, with new horns and holes drilled for EP control gear and a high-intensity headlight.
Sometimes, things don't work out. I have a few 16 Tonners on the go, and this (diag 1/108) is the second one I've started over with - and it's already been re primed to start again: I just wasn't happy with the colour of both the paint and rust. Paint (Railmatch) just looked too blue, the rust, too red. I did persevere with weathering (grime, dust, frame dirt), but it just went further and further away from anything I really wanted. I don't want them trashed, as this is the late 50s/early 60s and I'm just going to try over. I'll grab some different paint (Revell 75/76) and some Humbrol cream to lighten and try again...
I've got the others with a much darker brown rust effect ready for the next attempt...
== Doublepost prevention - post automatically merged: ==
Redone one of them (the LNER one) - I'm happier about the colours here. Needs some powders applying.
A bit of an update on slow progress with 16 tonners and other bits.
The 1/102 and the LNER d188 are both pretty much done, bar a coal load. (Related, if anyone has a large lump of coal, I could do with one!)
Couple together:
The next mins (Parkside 1/108 and 1/109) are masked ready for hairspray before freight grey (or something close - Revell 76 and Humbrol 41 to lighten worked well).
Meanwhile, two 1/044 BR highfits are painted and have transfers applied. One is on a Morton fitted chassis (B497624), the other on LMS pattern J hangers (B493313) - both numbers from the correct lot numbers and confirmed from images on Paul Bartlett's site (though, much earlier in life than pictured on there!).
I also started an elderly Airfix 16T min, but I need some micro-rod ideally to fix up the door hinges. At least the brakes are correct (unlike the kit!).
The next mins (Parkside 1/108 and 1/109) are masked ready for hairspray before freight grey (or something close - Revell 76 and Humbrol 41 to lighten worked well).
The next mins (Parkside 1/108 and 1/109) are masked ready for hairspray before freight grey (or something close - Revell 76 and Humbrol 41 to lighten worked well).
Meanwhile, two 1/044 BR highfits are painted and have transfers applied. One is on a Morton fitted chassis (B497624), the other on LMS pattern J hangers (B493313) - both numbers from the correct lot numbers and confirmed from images on Paul Bartlett's site (though, much earlier in life than pictured on there!).
I also started an elderly Airfix 16T min, but I need some micro-rod ideally to fix up the door hinges. At least the brakes are correct (unlike the kit!).
£1.50 a small bag on one stall at Stafold Modelrailway exhibition today ! Hwoever living in the midst of Leicestershire and South derbyshire coalfields as well as there used to be a coal shed out back it's not really a problem for me. Oh and me dad worked for the coal board.
£1.50 a small bag on one stall at Stafold Modelrailway exhibition today ! Hwoever living in the midst of Leicestershire and South derbyshire coalfields as well as there used to be a coal shed out back it's not really a problem for me. Oh and me dad worked for the coal board.
There's a couple of 93 / 99 3D Prints on ebay was looking at, they are plain in colour - as a complete novice, what would be the best way to get them from "3D Print" white to actual liveries? Was thinking of putting one 99 in to the large BR Logo blue and yellow livery, ala 66789
There's a couple of 93 / 99 3D Prints on ebay was looking at, they are plain in colour - as a complete novice, what would be the best way to get them from "3D Print" white to actual liveries? Was thinking of putting one 99 in to the large BR Logo blue and yellow livery, ala 66789
An air brush would be the best way. Coat of primer, apply the base colour and then carefully mask it up for the yellow etc. If you have little/no experience, I can recommend getting hold of some cheap wagons (or similar) to practice on. It’s quite a daunting task spraying a locomotive, but as long as you are careful and take your time, it actually isn’t too bad.
An air brush would be the best way. Coat of primer, apply the base colour and then carefully mask it up for the yellow etc. If you have little/no experience, I can recommend getting hold of some cheap wagons (or similar) to practice on. It’s quite a daunting task spraying a locomotive, but as long as you are careful and take your time, it actually isn’t too bad.
Realise airbrush is (done properly) always going to be best but halfords spray cans are said to be as good.
Personally I refuse to go to the hassle of using spray - especially cleaning it afterwards - and always use (sable) brush paint. On LNWR locos have tried precision paints but did not get on with their matt varnish and decided to do it the easy way with Railmatch acrylics. Certainly good enough for me but perhaps I have low standards
Think this is largely there this on - BR diagram 1/044 (lot 2396, Gloucester 1951) B493313. Vacuum braked, LMS style J hanger suspension. [Parkside PC02 on PA16 chassis] (EDIT: Gah, forgot the vacuum pipes!)
I've sheeted this one to hide the lack of internal detail again - but this time used a Smiths sheet (I picked up a cheap pack off eBay). Scrunch the sheet up and reflatten several times, and then I soaked the sheet (it's a thick kind of cartridge paper) which made it nice and malleable, and then it'll shape nicely onto the wagon and hold it's shape when wet. Cotton thread ropes with some scrap plasticard for the "load". Powders and light wash to fade it afterwards.
Oh, a tip as well - if the wagon is permanently sheeted, or it's a covered van, no need to buy tire weights, lead sheet, liquid lead or anything. For the cost of 4 pence, you can have, well, two 2ps epoxied in to provide pretty much the right weight! Of course trickier with an empty open, or something like a Bogie bolster/Salmon/etc. - then resorting to lead sheet under the chassis etc is needed..
== Doublepost prevention - post automatically merged: ==
Realise airbrush is (done properly) always going to be best but halfords spray cans are said to be as good.
Personally I refuse to go to the hassle of using spray - especially cleaning it afterwards - and always use (sable) brush paint. On LNWR locos have tried precision paints but did not get on with their matt varnish and decided to do it the easy way with Railmatch acrylics. Certainly good enough for me but perhaps I have low standards
Railmatch acrylics are very good (though I do airbrush them on) - I do have a Railmatch rattle can of the track dirt - it works fine on track, but it does seem to come out a bit heavy for me. I keep meaning to get some of their matt varnish when I pop into Howes Models next (they are not far up the road) - I struggle a bit with the Humbrol Matt Cote sometimes. I know of many modellers' work online from people who use the Halfords rattle cans and they work lovely for them.
Think this is largely there this on - BR diagram 1/044 (lot 2396, Gloucester 1951) B493313. Vacuum braked, LMS style J hanger suspension. [Parkside PC02 on PA16 chassis] (EDIT: Gah, forgot the vacuum pipes!)
I've sheeted this one to hide the lack of internal detail again - but this time used a Smiths sheet (I picked up a cheap pack off eBay). Scrunch the sheet up and reflatten several times, and then I soaked the sheet (it's a thick kind of cartridge paper) which made it nice and malleable, and then it'll shape nicely onto the wagon and hold it's shape when wet. Cotton thread ropes with some scrap plasticard for the "load". Powders and light wash to fade it afterwards.
Oh, a tip as well - if the wagon is permanently sheeted, or it's a covered van, no need to buy tire weights, lead sheet, liquid lead or anything. For the cost of 4 pence, you can have, well, two 2ps epoxied in to provide pretty much the right weight! Of course trickier with an empty open, or something like a Bogie bolster/Salmon/etc. - then resorting to lead sheet under the chassis etc is needed..
== Doublepost prevention - post automatically merged: ==
Railmatch acrylics are very good (though I do airbrush them on) - I do have a Railmatch rattle can of the track dirt - it works fine on track, but it does seem to come out a bit heavy for me. I keep meaning to get some of their matt varnish when I pop into Howes Models next (they are not far up the road) - I struggle a bit with the Humbrol Matt Cote sometimes. I know of many modellers' work online from people who use the Halfords rattle cans and they work lovely for them.
They cover a multitude of sins! The Smiths ones are not too expensive on eBay (or you can print your own, but with a laser they don't scrunch quite as nicely) - Smiths do all kinds (Pre-Grouping, Big 4, British Railways, etc).
