Visiting former Yugoslavian Republics

[Hoofhearted]

Hi there. My son and I are planning a trip to these countries in September.

In particular, we would like to visit Bosnia, Kosovo, North Macedonia and Montenegro.

We understand that rail travel is very sparse in these countries, and the best way to get around is by coach. We don't mind the odd coach journey or two, but we don't want to be on a bus in excess of 3 to 4 hours.

We can also take in Serbia, Slovenia and Croatia if need be, (though we've been there before), but can anybody out there point us in the direction of a website etc that can assist us in planning our trip?

Or does anybody have first hand experience of travelling to these countries recently themselves?

Many thanks.
Bob M.

 

[stadler]

Hi there. My son and I are planning a trip to these countries in September. In particular, we would like to visit Bosnia, Kosovo, North Macedonia and Montenegro. We understand that rail travel is very sparse in these countries, and the best way to get around is by coach. We don't mind the odd coach journey or two, but we don't want to be on a bus in excess of 3 to 4 hours. We can also take in Serbia, Slovenia and Croatia if need be, (though we've been there before), but can anybody out there point us in the direction of a website etc that can assist us in planning our trip? Or does anybody have first hand experience of travelling to these countries recently themselves? Many thanks. Bob M.

The railways in those countries are in a rather poor state in comparison to other European countries. The bonus is that they are very cheap. Also they are generally very scenic railways. So it is still a good way to get around instead of the coach if the route you want is running.

Macedonia has a network in a rather poor state. It is very common for services to be cancelled suddenly so it is difficult to know in advance what is running. So be prepared for a limited service. You can often turn up and half the advertised trains are not running due to shortage of stock or some other reason. Skopje to Veles still has a fairly frequent service running every few hours. This is the main route and the only one that consistently operates fairly reliably. There is also a limited service a few times a day from Veles to Gevgelija and Veles to Bitola which are normally running. The lines from Skopje to Kicevo and Skopje to Tabanovci and Veles to Kocani are all closed. The cross border routes to Kosovo and Serbia and Greece are also still closed. So there are a limited amount of lines running.

Montenegro has a fairly reliable simple network of three lines. They have lines from Podgorica to Niksic and Podgorica to Bar and Podgorica to Bikelo Polje which are all running. The network here is fairly reliable these days. It seems to run quite well compared to some of its neighbours. There are also daily cross border services to Serbia as well.

Kosovo has a very simple network of two lines from Pristina to Peje and Pristina to Hani I Elezit both running once or twice a day. So only a very limited infrequent service. The cross border line to Macedonia appears to still be closed.

Bosnia has a very limited network still in quite poor condition. It is basically split in half with two separate unconnected networks. The network in the South has a few infrequent trains on the Sarajevo to Pazaric and Sarajevo to Zenica and Zenica to Maglaj routes. There is also a Sarajevo suburban service running a few times a day. The status of the route between Pazaric and Ploce via Mostar and Capljina is unclear as some sources say the trains are running and others say currently suspended. The network in the North has a few infrequent trains a couple times a day on the Doboj to Dobrlijn via Banja Luka and Novi Grad route as well as the Doboj to Petrovo Novo branch line. So there are quite a few services but just quite limited frequency. The condition of the railway is quite poor so service suspensions are quite common.

Croatia and Serbia and Slovenia have much better networks. The railways there are in far better condition and the trains have better frequency and reliability. So travelling around by train is a lot easier in these countries.

The timetables on the railway companies websites are probably the best place to start planning:

Bosnia (South - ZFBH):

Željeznice

Federacije Bosne i Hercegovine

www.zfbh.ba

Bosnia (North - ZRS):

Željeznice Republike Srpske

Željeznice Republike Srpske | Svetog Save 71, 74000 Doboj | Tel : +387 53 241 368 | Fax : +387 53 222 247 | E-mail : kabinet@zrs-rs.com

www.zrs-rs.com

Kosovo (Trainkos):

Orari i trenave | TRAINKOS

Macedonia (MZI):

Возен Ред - МЖИ

mzi.mk

Montenegro (ZPCG):

Željeznički prevoz Crne Gore

Željeznički prevoz Crne Gore. Informacije o redu vožnje, lokalnom saobraćaju, međunarodnom saobraćaju, javnim nabavkama, kretanju vozova i novostima.

zpcg.me

Although the websites are very basic and lacking of information compared to other countries. Be aware that they are often not updated. So some information may not be correct. Generally for the Balkan countries it is best to do some rough plans and then find out the exact situation with the trains when you arrive.

If you have particular routes and places in mind then someone on here may be able to help further.

 

[dutchflyer]

Once there was even a site aimed at giving links and info on about all BUS networks anywhere in this world, by a British mr Annells: busstation.net. Had also links to a magazine on that, Buses Worldwide, but it is no more. Perhaps also that magazine also no more.
In your posiion I would also consider doing this trip to include ALbania-also not much left of railways or trains, but quite interesting and making logistics for bus-use also much easier. I would also not exclude longer BUStrips-perhaps sad to note, but these may in fact in the current conditions be more comfortable as a traintrip of same time in these areas. Plus that there is hardly any traintrip possible of more as 3-4 hrs in the same train.
Confirm the very good overview of stadler above. Add to that: in the actual situation especially links over all these new borders are sparse or nil and far worse as in country. Croatia is in the EU and now also in the combined Schengen area and also has gone over to use the € for money. Serbije is slowly modernising a few lines of its network-mostly the line toward Hungary-where that nasty station front collapse a few weeks ago happened.
If there is just 1 ´havetodo´ line then it would be the Bar-Beograd line, best views on the far southern part in Cerna Gora or Montenegro.
And if looking for flights in/out to there; do look at different airports for arrival and depart-it makes no sense to make a full circular tour just for that purpose. Besides very well known RYANair WIZZair is the best low-cost airline specialising in eastern Europe.
In general I would also add that the germans on their own lookalike forum drescheibe-online.de seem to have much more informaions on current situation.

 

[Segedunum]

I can confirm that Montenegro is easy enough to do. The trains run frequently enough that you can complete the network in a day if you wish, and ticketing is as simple as paying cash (or card, as I did see a card machine at Bar station!) and jumping on the next train. It tends to be that trains from Bijelo Polje and Podgorica to Bar are older RVR units or hauled, while the Nikšíć line has newer CAF units. Staff at Sutomore spoke some English but it's probably best to have a couple of phrases in the local language ready - fares are so simple that you won't need to have much of a back and forth.

Podgorica Airport can be reached by train - head to 'Aerodrom' and its a 15-minute or so walk along a road with path. Be aware that the airport is absolutely tiny and you'll likely only be granted access to departures 60-90 mins beforehand.

 

[HS2isgood]

The line to the North Macedonian border in Greece is closed to passenger, because a new bypass is being built. It should be done by 2025-6.

Capljina line reopened February 10, it's usually a Talgo. Suburban services tend to be units.

 

[Hoofhearted]

Many thanks for your responses. I'm very appreciative of the great detail that you guys have gone to. Awesome. One question while I remember. Within the 7 former Yugoslavian states, are there any that won't let you enter their country if you have a stamp on your passport from one (or more) of the others?

 

[Segedunum]

Many thanks for your responses. I'm very appreciative of the great detail that you guys have gone to. Awesome. One question while I remember. Within the 7 former Yugoslavian states, are there any that won't let you enter their country if you have a stamp on your passport from one (or more) of the others?

Serbia doesn't particularly like seeing Kosovo stamps and may well stamp over and annul them. You also would come to grief if you entered from North Macedonia into Kosovo then continued into Serbia you'd be seen by Serbia as entering 'their' territory illegally.

So with Kosovo, leave the way you came in if you can help it - or do Serbia first!

 

[Zamracene749]

You may find this site useful for transport times in those countries- https://www.autobusni-kolodvor.com/

 

[Hoofhearted]

Hi everyone. I've abandoned my planned trip to Turkey, Georgia, Armenia. I've also abandoned Turkey, Romania and Moldova.

When we can get our dates sorted in September, my son and I are now hoping to visit as many of the former Yugoslavian republics as we can. The problem is of course that very few are connected by rail, and those that are well connected (Croatia/Slovenia) we've done, though we may include them in this trip. We don't drive, so we can't rent a car. So the best means of travelling between them as I can see it is by coach. We certainly want to do the overnight Belgrade to Bar train.

So can anyone suggest a plan for doing as many of these states within 14 days? I'm also aware that if you visit Kosovo first, they wont allow you into Serbia. Is that a fact? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

 

[mad_rich]

I wrote this guide over on the Interrail forum. It's a year old, but largely still valid, and has some suggested routes which you could adapt. Please do have a look and let me know if it's helpful and/ or anything has changed.

Buses will indeed be your friend.

Balkan connections 2025 | Community

I’ve seen a few questions about trains in the Balkans. It’s not always easy to find out routes, so I thought I’d try to gather as much information as possible on the current situation here.Train travel in the Balkans (and buses and ferries)In general, rail services in the Balkans are thin -...

community.eurail.com

The direct Eurocity from Budapest - Belgrade still isn't running. It might be by September (but I've heard that many times before)

I believe you're correct in that you can't enter Serbia from Kosovo if you arrived in Kosovo from another country. But there's no ban on visiting Serbia after Kosovo - you just have to go via another country. You can also visit Kosovo from Serbia, then return to Serbia.

 

[davetheguard]

I visited Kosovo last year on an organised tour. We entered from Albania by road with passports being inspected but not stamped.

The same applied when we left and returned to Albania.

Two days later, we took the day train from Podgerica (Montenegro) to Belgrade (Serbia) with no passport problems.

 

[riceuten]

I've done Croatia to Serbia a few times, but I believe this is no longer possible - there are trains to Tovarnik in Croatia and trains from Sid in Serbia - nothing for the seven kilometres between

I found this on Tripadvisor

"We went by train from Belgrade to Sid. At Sid there was no public transport, only 1 taxi that could bring us to the Serbian border for €12. We walked through the border passing and after we entered Croatia, it was about a 25 minute walk to Tovarnik center and 40 minute walk to the trainstation of Tovarnik. We had 1 hour between the trains and (while we walked very fast with backpacks on) we missed the train with seconds. So it is possible to do the border crossing, but you need to walk a long way, also next to a 70 km/H road with no side walks"

There are direct Zagreb to Belgrade buses, and indeed Ljubljana to Belgrade buses.

 

[AndrewE]

a postscript to say that their ferries don't get much of a mention, we have enjoyed using them as they are a proper part of the public transport network.

Also, Rijeka has a railway line along the street in front of a market hall near the port. It was used daily when we were there, I guessed taking empty wagons for maintenance.

Looking on https://www.openstreetmap.org/#map=18/45.325635/14.443679 it is Ulica Ivana Zajca, and I think it must count as contra-flow gutter-running too, that map showing it separate doesn't fit with my memory.

(Our apartment was almost impossible to find, possibly on Jedrarska Ulica, and was on the south side of the building overlooking the railway line.)

 

[Hoofhearted]

We've come up with a plan:

Fly to Belgrade (Serbia), 3 nights there, then the day train to Podgorica (Montenegro). A couple of nights there, then the night train back to Belgrade, then over to the airport for a short flight to Sarajevo (Bosnia). 3 nights Sarajevo, then taking the Talgo to Mostar. after a couple of days in Mostar, a 4 1/2 hour bus to Split (Croatia). Couple of days there, then catch a train to Zagreb. Couple of nights there then fly home.

But I couldn't fit in North Macedonia, Kosovo or Slovenia - but we've been to Slovenia before - a wonderful country. Not enough time, but maybe next year?

 

[FormerBritInMe]

Interesting. We have a cruise coming up in October where we will be stopping at Bar for the day. I might hop on the train to Podgorica since it is only an hour trip.

 

[izvor]

a postscript to say that their ferries don't get much of a mention, we have enjoyed using them as they are a proper part of the public transport network.

Oh yes, Croatian ferries (and the islands) are wonderful, not expensive for foot passengers, and with so many islands there are plenty to choose from. Split is a good base for these.

 

[Hoofhearted]

Quick question. Does the morning and afternoon train run from Split to Zagreb in September? I have an inkling that they only run in the summer months.

 

[Segedunum]

Quick question. Does the morning and afternoon train run from Split to Zagreb in September? I have an inkling that they only run in the summer months.

In September its a morning train from Split Mon-Sat and an afternoon one on Sundays.

In the other direction its an afternoon train Zagreb to Split.

 

[FormerBritInMe]

Has anyone ridden the line in Montenegro between Bar and Podgorica lately?
Do the trains generally run on time and are dependable i.e. not cancelled?
Do they use the new CAF EMUs, or the older Yugoslav ones, or are they locomotive hauled?

 

[rvdborgt]

Have a look at Vagonweb:

vagonWEB » Řazení vlaků » 2026 » ŽPCG P

www.vagonweb.cz

It lists planned compositions and also some real ones.

 

[davetheguard]

Has anyone ridden the line in Montenegro between Bar and Podgorica lately?

I did an afternoon trip from Podgorica to Bar & back last September.

I travelled out on an EMU & back on a short loco-hauled train. The line is quite scenic, crossing Lake Skadar and later after a tunnel through a mountain ridge, views out to sea.

There was a bit of late running coming back due to waiting to pass on the single line somewhere.

Fare was 2.80 Euros for a single in each direction from the staffed ticket office.

 

[Dougal2345]

It's been a fair few years since I travelled in this part of the world, but I do recall a lot of smoking happens on the trains there, often in non-smoking carriages, so if you don't like that sort of thing you might not enjoy your trips... Bosnia in particular gave me the impression of being the ashtray of Europe...

 

[Panceltic]

a postscript to say that their ferries don't get much of a mention, we have enjoyed using them as they are a proper part of the public transport network.

Also, Rijeka has a railway line along the street in front of a market hall near the port. It was used daily when we were there, I guessed taking empty wagons for maintenance.

Looking on https://www.openstreetmap.org/#map=18/45.325635/14.443679 it is Ulica Ivana Zajca, and I think it must count as contra-flow gutter-running too, that map showing it separate doesn't fit with my memory.

(Our apartment was almost impossible to find, possibly on Jedrarska Ulica, and was on the south side of the building overlooking the railway line.)

The line does indeed run on the street for a bit, it leads to the container terminal. Then it enters the spiral “Brajdica” tunnel and rejoins the mainline at Sušak-Pećine station.

 

[ricohallo]

It's been a fair few years since I travelled in this part of the world, but I do recall a lot of smoking happens on the trains there, often in non-smoking carriages, so if you don't like that sort of thing you might not enjoy your trips... Bosnia in particular gave me the impression of being the ashtray of Europe...

In my experience this is still the case in some countries in the Balkans. I've personally experienced it the most in Montenegro by far, both on the night train Lovcen from Belgrade to Bar as well as the domestic trains people were smoking continuously. Other than that I've also experienced it in Romania and in Bosnia in the Republika Srpska. I can't think of any instances where I've had people smoke inside the train in other countries such as Bulgaria, Serbia (excluding Lovcen) or Croatia.