Must be cheap Chinese ones, then, because I can perceive 50Hz flicker very clearly (watching an old style CRT TV was a nightmare) but not easily 100Hz.
If you connect a diode directly to (transformed) 50Hz AC it will pulse at 50Hz, anyway, because a diode only allows current flow in one direction, which is what these cheap ones do. An incandescent bulb will pulse at 100Hz because it will light on both "sides" of the wave. You need a rectifier (a small network of diodes) to get the 100Hz by feeding the DC positive from both the "up" and "down" part of the AC wave (I forget the correct terms).
You need a full-wave rectifier to feed your DC load on both positive and negative half-cycles. A single diode on its own acts as a half-wave rectifier and only feeds you one of them.
LED bulbs have one. Although an LED is indeed a diode, you can't use it as its own rectifier because it is very bad at withstanding reverse voltage, so you need to precede the LEDs with a separate rectifier made from "proper" diodes. These rectifiers are always full-wave types, for several reasons, one of which is indeed to get a ripple frequency of 100Hz rather than 50Hz so it's easier to filter out.
An LED is a current-driven device, so to run it off a voltage source you also need some means of limiting the current it can take, without wasting power in the process. The simplest and most potentially robust method of doing this is to insert a series capacitor on the AC side of the rectifier as a reactive ballast; with the output from the rectifier thus limited, you can safely connect it directly to the LED string without further ado, although to do a proper job you also need a reservoir capacitor on the DC side to filter out the 100Hz ripple.
Unfortunately when the Chinese do this they do not do a proper job; they use a reservoir capacitor with only about a tenth as much capacitance as is actually needed, so its filtering effect is essentially zilch and the LEDs still flash on and off 100 times a second, usually spending about as much time off as on. They also use a ballast capacitor which, while it does have the correct capacitance, is grossly underrated for the amount of power that is being put through it, so it doesn't take long to cook itself and stop working. (Neither of these problems are inherent to this design; they don't manifest at all when I use it because I do actually bother to select the components correctly.)
This method lacks versatility, and it is not appropriate for bulbs which use a small number of high-current LEDs, as many do, instead of a large number of small ones. So less basic bulbs use some form of switching regulator as a ballast. These operate at a frequency of several kHz at the very minimum, so the output ripple needs only a small capacitance to filter it out and is in any case far too fast for the eye to perceive.
However there is still a need for a reservoir capacitor to reduce the 100Hz ripple at the input to the switching regulator, otherwise it still has 100 gaps per second in its ability to obtain current, so the method is still vulnerable to flicker resulting from not making the input reservoir capacitor big enough. Or indeed from missing it out altogether. Some of the switching regulator ICs sold for LED light bulbs claim that they regulate so well that they can keep the LEDs alight even during the periods where the input falls to zero, and therefore you don't need an input reservoir capacitor. This claim basically isn't true, and if you leave it out they will still flicker, you just have the ready-made excuse that the IC manufacturer said things that weren't true miss.