LEJOG (Land's End to John O'Groats Cycle Trip)

[TheBigD]

Tuesday 27th September 2022

LEJOG Day 16 - Tomintoul to Inverness

A cold day of rain and headwind today. Not pleasant riding conditions today.

We left Tomintoul in the wind and rain following the road out and down to the river. We then slowly climb up passing numerous distillery signs and headed towards Grantown-on-Spey. There was a 20% descent folowed by a 13% incline but otherwise generally undulating. We passed by the former Grantown East railway station and then headed in to Grantown-on-Spey for a welcome tea stop.

After tea break we left for the 22 mile trek to the Cawdor Tavern. Still raining heavily and the wind increasing, we headed across heather moorland and through pine and birch forests. One section I didn't pass a single vehicle or see a single soul in over 7 miles! A mile after the signs for Cawdor Castle we arrived at the Tavern for out lunch stop, where it finally stopped raining. The was plenty of competition for the seats by the fire once we got inside!

After lunch we now had sunshine for our last 15 miles to Inverness. We left and headed towards Culloden Viaduct, cycling along back roads and under the impressive Culloden Viaduct, before cycling down into Inverness and our accommodation for the night.

Cycle Stats

Distance 51.32 miles
Time 3hr 55m 29s
Average Speed 13.1mph
Ascent 2828ft

Tomorrow we will be cycling the 55 miles to Lairg.

 

[Techniquest]

That cold weather must have been challenging. It seems crazy to think that you're most of the way now already, doesn't seem like long as an armchair reader since you set off!

 

[TheBigD]

That cold weather must have been challenging. It seems crazy to think that you're most of the way now already, doesn't seem like long as an armchair reader since you set off!

Cold and wet is grim, but you just get on with it. If I was at home, as @Bald Rick mentioned earlier, I'd stay in bed!

Looking back, on day 4 we were in Cheddar. Seems like an eternity ago. We have just 3 days cycling left.

I will write a full review after the trip, listing my highs and lows etc.

 

[TheBigD]

Wednesday 28th September 2022

LEJOG Day 17 - Inverness to Lairg.

A head wind and light showers forecast for today.

A brief ride along the dreaded A9 over the Kessock Bridge and on to the Black Isle. We then turned left and followed the shore of the Beauly Forth for a few miles, before headed through Muir of Ord and Dingwall. Tea was had in the tesco car park.

We then left Dingwall with the sky looking menacing and climb up for a while before largely following the shore of the Cromarty Forth. We then turned inland at Alness, and gradually climbed for the next 10 miles or so. The scenery being a mix of heather moors and pine forests. Once over the crest of the hills, we then descended down to the shores of the Dornoch Firth, with a cracking view before the 13% decline.

Although showers were forecast and the skies were grey and gloomy, the rain held of until we reach Ardgay, where we encountered a light shower.

We continued to follow the shore of the Dornoch Firth for a mile or so to Bonar Bridge, where we had lunch in cafe open just for us!

After lunch we headed inland via the Falls of Shin and on to Lairg. A lovely little back road giving us fleeting glimpses of the river.

Cycle Stats

Distance 55.53 miles
Time 4hr 22m 05s
Average Speed 12.7mph
Ascent 25.89ft

Tomorrow will see us cycle the relatively easy 45 miles from Lairg to Bettyhill.

Currently, our final cycle through to John O'Groats is in doubt as we have heavy rain and 50+mph side winds forecast for Friday.

 

[Bald Rick]

Currently, our final cycle through to John O'Groats is in doubt as we have heavy rain and 50+mph side winds forecast for Friday.

If I was in your cleats, I would be up early tomorrow and get off to JO’G. It’s only 90 miles via the A9 and you could be there for lunch. Then about turn and back to Bettyhill for tea and medals.

Ascent 25.89ft

That’s very precise

 

[TheBigD]

If I was in your cleats, I would be up early tomorrow and get off to JO’G. It’s only 90 miles via the A9 and you could be there for lunch. Then about turn and back to Bettyhill for tea and medals.

I have asked to ride all the way through tomorrow* and they have flatly refused. They have said that tomorrow will be as planned. I can either leave the tour early and obtain my own bike (I've hired one from them) and accommodation, or just do the planned ride.

Friday is currently cancelled, with any decision to reinstate entirely dependent on the weather changing.

I'm currently not a happy bunny, to put it midly! And I'm not alone in that!

* It's 96 miles via Bettyhill or 87 miles via the A9, so easily doable, especially with the good weather predicted tomorrow.

 

[Bald Rick]

I have asked to ride all the way through tomorrow* and they have flatly refused. They have said that tomorrow will be as planned. I can either leave the tour early and obtain my own bike, as i have hired one of theirs, or just do the planned ride.

Friday is currently cancelled, with any decision to reinstate entirely dependent on the weather changing.

I'm currently not a happy bunny, to put it midly! And I'm not alone in that!

* It's 96 miles via Bettyhill or 87 miles via the A9, so easily doable, especially with the weather predicted.

I think you said previously that you don’t all ride as a group. What would stop you, say, going ahead in your own, becoming disoriented and taking a wrong route, not realising till you hit the A9, and then just keep going as it would be the same distance by then?

 

[TheBigD]

I think you said previously that you don’t all ride as a group. What would stop you, say, going ahead in your own, becoming disoriented and taking a wrong route, not realising till you hit the A9, and then just keep going as it would be the same distance by then?

It's one option...

 

[87electric]

Go for it! 87 miles via the A9.
I‘ve been following this adventure avidly and I’ve been willing you to achieve this feat.
Speaking personally, I would be gutted if I was in this situation and I would have to continue.

 

[Techniquest]

If the option is to get within the final few dozen miles and not make it, or to get there on your own in the same day (and you clearly have the fitness to do so) then I'd be tempted.

The matter of returning the bike to the organisers may be a small issue, but easily enough arranged I'd imagine. To let that stop you from completing the lifetime achievement would be foolish.

It is right in my opinion for them to suspend the final day with such rancid weather forecast, it would not be safe, but if you feel confident in doing the final ride and achieving the mission then I can only say go for it! Figure out the return of the bike after reaching the milepost and taking the photos!

Good luck and I hope you manage it without any major problems! You've got this in the bag now!

 

[TheBigD]

Thursday 29th September 2022

LEJOG Day 18 - Lairg to Bettyhill

The weather today is good for cycling. Just a 4-5mph head/sidewind, 11C, and no rain.

There is a definite atmosphere in the group this morning with 4 of us wanting to make the most of the good weather and get the trip finished, and 6 who seem to think that either the weather will change overnight or that they can ride slowly in the 50mph winds!

Our guides have flatly refusing to change the plan, or offer any help or assistance to those who want to, they are firmly in the camp of the weather may change overnight or the Friday ride is cancelled and we will transported straight from accommodation to accommodation.

We have been told that if we cycle on, we will have left the tour and be responsible for our luggage and accommodation.

We set off from Lairg and headed towards the north coast of Scotland. What should have been a beautiful and quiet back road is currently shared with the construction traffic for the new wind farm north of Lairg. We encountered a large crane, numerous lorries, and various plant going to the site!

After 5 miles the construction turned off and we meandered through the beautifully bleak and baron landscapes passing mostly camper vans before stopping for our first tea break at Crask, a distance of around 13 miles.

After tea break we continued though the countryside towards Bettyhill. The landscape now changing to heather, bracken, and bog, with the only trees being around Loch Naver. There are very few vehicles and the peace and solitude is great!.

After another 19 miles we stopped in a lay-by for our lunch picnic.

After lunch we then largely followed the River Naver through to Bettyhill. The scenery gradually changing through to the ruggedness of the coastal north of Scotland.

Tomorrow, well who knows? I'm sure we will have some robust exchanges of views this evening!

Cycle Stats

Distance 45.06 miles
Time 2hr 59m 29s
Average Speed 15.1mph
Ascent 1706 ft

 

[Bald Rick]

As you are there already, you have plenty of time to pop out for a gentle warm down this afternoon, I reckon.

 

[TheBigD]

As you are there already, you have plenty of time to pop out for a gentle warm down this afternoon, I reckon.

They bikes have been locked up.
At morning tea I was taken aside and told I'd be booted of the tour if I cycled on, with my 2 nights of accommodation and my luggage being my problem.

I'm currently in email correspondence with a "Senior Customer Manager" at Skedaddle's Newcastle office.

I'm pretty angry about it to be honest.

 

[Techniquest]

They bikes have been locked up.
At morning tea I was taken aside and told I'd be booted of the tour if I cycled on, with my 2 nights of accommodation and my luggage being my problem.

I'm currently in email correspondence with a "Senior Customer Manager" at Skedaddle's Newcastle office.

I'm pretty angry about it to be honest.

They have a funny attitude to this situation, I'd be beyond tamping about it. You'd think there would be some flexibility with this sort of trip. I hope there's a positive response ASAP from the office, and here's hoping the weather does indeed change in your favour!

 

[LSWR Cavalier]

If you do not get to cycle to Jog, have they failed to fulfil the contract? I imagine you have already paid in full, otherwise you could refuse to pay some of the costs.

There is a lot to be said for an accompanied/supported tour, but now I realise there is something to be said against it.

I imagine you paid quite a lot of money for the tour, if you do not get to Jog it seems the whole trip is wasted.

 

[Bald Rick]

I fully intend to do LEJOG - probably in 2027. I’d always anticipated doing it supported by friends / family, but until the last few days of @TheBigD travails I had been toying with joining a fully supported run. Definitely not now!

It will be a ‘persuade the Mrs to meet me in a few places‘ and aim to do it in 8-9 days.

 

[TheBigD]

As expected cycling cancelled today.

A disappointing end to the tour, and made worse by the fact it could have easily been avoided by completing yesterday.

I will avoided commenting further on this aspect of the trip.


Tomorrow afternoon I will write a short review of the coach journey from John O'Groats to Inverness.

On Sunday evening I will write a review of the journey from Inverness to Peterborough, with the rail replacement bus to Perth and the diversion via Carlisle.


A big thank you to all the support and encouragement from people on this thread. I hope you have enjoyed following my progress.

 

[Techniquest]

I am sorry to hear you haven't got to finish the adventure, what a huge disappointment. I won't expect you to comment further, it's fair to say I'd be absolutely fuming in a situation that could have been avoided. Let's say no more than that, and you have all my sympathy on it all.

Like Bald Rick, I absolutely won't be even considering doing such a thing through an organisation now. I think if I did LEJOG it wouldn't be in a multi-day single trip, I'd probably have to break it up into multiple regional bits I think, but who knows? I'd be routing myself via Aberdeenshire, I wouldn't feel brave enough taking on the Highlands!

Good luck with the journey back to Peterborough! Looking forward to the next updates!

 

[paul1609]

I rode down that road to Lairg past the Crask Inn pub on my motorbike in May. I was devastated by the destruction that the construction of the pole route to that wind farm has caused. I was flagged down by one of the lorry drivers who warned me to be very careful as the day before a faulty machine had leaked diesel and hydraulic oil over the whole route. A previously single track road has been widdened for the construction by the addition of crushed stone shoulders down both sides.

 

[Doctor Fegg]

Like Bald Rick, I absolutely won't be even considering doing such a thing through an organisation now. I think if I did LEJOG it wouldn't be in a multi-day single trip, I'd probably have to break it up into multiple regional bits I think, but who knows? I'd be routing myself via Aberdeenshire, I wouldn't feel brave enough taking on the Highlands!

This is probably the route with the least climbing, if that’s what you’re looking for: https://cycle.travel/route/lejog_east_coast

 

[Bald Rick]

Well, congratulations on doing what you did do. Must have still been quite an experience.

I'd be routing myself via Aberdeenshire, I wouldn't feel brave enough taking on the Highlands!

if you can get through Devon, you can do the Highlands. Drumochter for example - cycle route the whole way, sometimes on back roads, sometimes on a separate route alongside the A9. The climb is 275m in 27k from Bruar, that‘s 1% average.

 

[LSWR Cavalier]

I think the hills in Cornwall and Devon are much worse, steep up and down. The hills in the North are mostly longer and less steep.

 

[Techniquest]

This is probably the route with the least climbing, if that’s what you’re looking for: https://cycle.travel/route/lejog_east_coast

Thanks, I'll have a look at that in a bit. I've currently got my South Cumbria & The Lake District map out, planning some touring around there. I could easily spend a week there and still come away with stuff to do.

I have to confess, I often forget your website exists when planning a ride. A lot of my rides are very impulsive though, with a vague plan made and often it gets thrown out as soon as I set foot outside the front door! Or, as in my recent Cotswold experience, I threw out my plan for the day upon seeing a sign telling me how far I wasn't from Stow on the Wold, so I abandoned my plan to visit the Glos-Warks and went across the hills instead on a whim. Well, after consulting Maps for an estimated ride time and such like first that is!

I will try to remember your website exists, I may have questions to PM you with at some point but we will see if it is necessary.

Thanks for the link, and I will have a look after lunch!

Well, congratulations on doing what you did do. Must have still been quite an experience.



if you can get through Devon, you can do the Highlands. Drumochter for example - cycle route the whole way, sometimes on back roads, sometimes on a separate route alongside the A9. The climb is 275m in 27k from Bruar, that‘s 1% average.

Indeed, I would agree that what he did do was epic. The memories will be impressive no doubt.

I haven't yet done Devon, but I have made a start on the Quantock Hills. Memory tells me that route you speak of is NCN 7, I haven't studied that map in a while. 275 metres climbing over 27km, yes I can absolutely do that. Maybe I should actually research some of these routes over the Highlands a bit more!

 

[paul1609]

Its the same with the walk, my hardest day mentally and physically was on the North Devon Coast Path between Port Isaac and Tintagel because of all the ups and downs. The logistics and terrain are certainly a lot harder going on the highlands and floe country but carrying a tent means you can just wild camp early if it all gets too much or you hit adverse weather. Strangely enough the worst weather I encountered was. a heat wave between Fort William and Claunie Inn when I suffered from a lack of water and dehydration.

 

[Bald Rick]

Strangely enough the worst weather I encountered was. a heat wave between Fort William and Claunie Inn when I suffered from a lack of water and dehydration.

Thats quite a walk - via Glengarry and Glenquoich? 3 days?

 

[TheBigD]

Saturday 1st October 2022

Minibus journey from John O'Groats to Inverness.

After breakfast our minibus arrived to convey us and our luggage back to Inverness. There isn't much joy in the group this morning as you can imagine. We are all silent so far on the journey. One positive is a lovely sunrise this morning.

We left John O'Groats in the lovely morning sunshine and headed towards the A9. Our journey took us through Wick where we came to stop as the minibus had run out of fuel! Luckily it was only the low fuel light illuminated so we have turned around and went back to the garage we had just passed about a mile back.

After refuelling we continued south. We followed the coast with the offshore windfalls easily visible. An emergency toilet stop was necessary in Lybster. We continued south, following the coastline.

This is a scenic route though it is easily apparent why people advise against cycling along the A9.

We crossed over the Dornoch Bridge which cut road journey times considerably and made the rail route with it's much longer journey times less attractive.

We passes along the shore of the Cromarty Firth. A number of offshore rigs were moored in the firth.

Another emergency toilet stop was made at Kildary before we continued onwards and crossing over the Cromarty Firth.

As we passed over the Kessock Bridge we headed towards the airport to drop off a couple of our group. We then headed back in to Inverness to drop everyone else off.

I'll be having a beer or two this evening.

Tomorrow will be a long journey home with the rail replacement bus and the engineering work diversion.

 

[TheBigD]

I think the hills in Cornwall and Devon are much worse, steep up and down. The hills in the North are mostly longer and less steep.

Agreed. From my experience on this trip the only flat bit of Cornwall was Penzance to Marazion along the sea front. The rest was either up or down.

 

[LSWR Cavalier]

What was the weather really like on Friday (not the forecast?). Did you get the minibus to Jog?

At the end you have cycled 800+ miles, an achievement without being a certified end to end. In any case, LE is not the southernmost point on the mainland and Jog is not the northernmost.

 

[TheBigD]

What was the weather really like on Friday (not the forecast?). Did you get the minibus to Jog?

At the end you have cycled 800+ miles, an achievement without being a certified end to end. In any case, LE is not the southernmost point on the mainland and Jog is not the northernmost.

50mph winds, driving rain, trees down across the road.
The decision not to ride was the correct one. The issue is the refusal to allow completion on the Thursday in the excellent weather.

We were transferred by taxi from hotel to hotel and advised not to leave the hotel.

Skedaddle refused to provide any refreshments simply stating (exact WhatsApp message from tour leader) "...cafe today (you pay)..." How you are supposed to use a cafe when advised not to leave the hotel wasn't answered.

Emails from the members of the group to head office were met with a simple "speak to your tour leader".

Tour leader absent from 1015 until 1630.

You can understand why we weren't a happy bunch this morning.

 

[paul1609]

Thats quite a walk - via Glengarry and Glenquoich? 3 days?

Theres alternative routes suggested through there in the End to End guide but I did Great Glen way from Fort Williams Mcd to Achnacarry then Bealach Carn na h Urchaire, Glenquoish then up the side of Allt Giubhais to the old Skye Road. I would have probably reached the Clunnie Inn late on the second day but Id been asked not to camp within site of the A87 by the gamekeepers on the estate so I stopped about 4 miles short. I was obviously quite fit having walked from Lands End but shortage of drinkable water. was a real problem coupled with the heat.