Leicestershire granite is probably the best there is. No coincidence that 3 off the busiest quarries ie Stud Farm, Mountsorell & Bardon are in the county & ship out to destinations a far away as Carlisle & south London
No, you are confusing a lime mortar and Portland cement. Lime putty results from slaking calcined limestone and mixing it with sand. Portland cement (which sets under water) needs clay minerals in it as well as the lime fraction. Adding aggregate to either of these gives concrete. Different aggregates have different effects on the concrete, as my link explained.
Look at the wikipedia page that Ken H linked: it says
Leicestershire "granite" is a strong stone but I believe it is not a true granite.Leicestershire granite is probably the best there is. No coincidence that 3 off the busiest quarries ie Stud Farm, Mountsorell & Bardon are in the county & ship out to destinations a far away as Carlisle & south London
Failure of concrete is more to do with a failure of the bond between the various components, Cement, sand and aggregate, rather than the actual aggregate failing eg shattering. Limestone is apparently better at maintaining this bond.Surely not? Limestone is relatively weak compared to most igneous rock and quite a lot of metamorphic ones (which is why worktops are made of marble and not limestone.) I'm certain that concrete made with granite or similar aggregate will be stronger than one made with limestone, but at least the limestone version won't get this:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alkali–silica_reaction which has done for a lot of concrete.
The actual mineral content of cement (after roasting and grinding then rehydration) is weird, but I just remember that Portland cement needs clay minerals in it, which is why some cement works on pure limestone or chalk have to import clay rocks of some sort!
p.s. it seems that the actual strength of the aggregate is less important than other factors: https://www.engr.psu.edu/ce/courses/ce584/concrete/library/materials/aggregate/aggregatesmain.htm says
Failure of concrete is more to do with a failure of the bond between the various components, Cement, sand and aggregate, rather than the actual aggregate failing eg shattering. Limestone is apparently better at maintaining this bond.
I say apparently because, although I used various concretes as a bridge engineer, I was no expert on the mixes and was happy to accept the specialists work when they designed a mix for a certain strength. Of course, we tested the mixes before use, even visiting the batching plants to make test cubes etc before allowing installation on site.
I think virtually everything now called "cement" is Portland cement, in that it will set under water. Apart from "Low-CO2 cement" which I think is ground blast furnace slag, and like Pozzolan, sets when ground and then wetted. You have to pay a premium to get lime suitable for making mortar and you pay even more to find a brickie who will work with it.So if I get a bag of el-cheapo cement from B&Q, will it be Portland?
What if I get a load of readymix? I thought portland was expensive posh stuff.
Me too for the long memory! I am sure we tested cubes at 7 days and 14. The whole process was more an exercise in deterrent for a contractor using dodgy materials. We never had a failure in the 12 years I was involved that I can recall but that is why cubes were cast in 3s to allow for dodgy tests. 2 out of 3 was a pass. Mind you, a series of 2 out of 3 would have resulted in a stern word to the contractor had it occurred..One thing puzzled me. You make your test cubes, and leave overnight. then you break the mould and bung in a tank of water, i think that was kept at a constant temperature with an immersion heater. Then they went away for testing.
I was told it takes 14 days for concrete to cure properly. until then its not at final strength.
So they test the cubes at 14 days.
One fails. What then? because there could well be more of the structure built upon the dodgy concrete. I think we poured more concrete every day. The shuttering came off the morning after the pour and hessian was draped over the exposed concrete and wetted. but steel fixers and chippies moved in quickly for the next section. I think a new pour joins better to the old pour if the old pour isnt too old. They did use retardant and scabbling to make the different pours mate.
This is a building totally made of concrete cast in situ, not made out of factory manufactured sections.
Again, this is from a long memory
So if I get a bag of el-cheapo cement from B&Q, will it be Portland?
What if I get a load of readymix? I thought portland was expensive posh stuff.
One thing puzzled me. You make your test cubes, and leave overnight. then you break the mould and bung in a tank of water, i think that was kept at a constant temperature with an immersion heater. Then they went away for testing.
I was told it takes 14 days for concrete to cure properly. until then its not at final strength.
So they test the cubes at 14 days.
One fails. What then? because there could well be more of the structure built upon the dodgy concrete. I think we poured more concrete every day. The shuttering came off the morning after the pour and hessian was draped over the exposed concrete and wetted. but steel fixers and chippies moved in quickly for the next section. I think a new pour joins better to the old pour if the old pour isnt too old. They did use retardant and scabbling to make the different pours mate.