I was there a couple of years ago and felt safe enough - I walked down to the cemetery Butts mentioned on a slack Sunday, also strolled around town. It's a great city in the European mould, with a slight down at heel air about the place.
The steaks were great and I was taken to some excellent restaurants by my colleagues: plenty of open grills and whole animals being roasted, if that's your thing. Wine also excellent. I'm glad I had the chance to visit and tick off another country/capital - didn't see any more than the central area and the airport road.