Autumn colours around Cholsey

[kestrel]

Some lovely lighting around cholsey bridge, the usual subjects on the GWML plus 60055 making an appearance

http://photos-by-kestrel.fotodock.co.uk/c1399504.html

 

[Dennis]

Some nice shots there; I always think a nice sky adds a lot to a picture, overexposed clouds and washed out white sky are dreadful (although I still manage to include them often enough!). I'm guessing the polarising filter came in handy for these shots.

It's a great time of the year to be out and about with a camera - so much colour. Shame I'm at work all day....lets hope the weekend is sunny.

 

[kestrel]

lol yep a polarising filter works wonders brings out all the colours and definition

 

[Coxster]

Another nice selection of pics there Ian

 

[thefab444]

Good pics. Has anyone got any tips on how to avoid "burning" the sky? I mainly get this trouble on cloudy days, and suspect it is something to do with the metering mode I am using (Multi)? Any ideas?

Ta

JS

 

[kestrel]

Good pics. Has anyone got any tips on how to avoid "burning" the sky? I mainly get this trouble on cloudy days, and suspect it is something to do with the metering mode I am using (Multi)? Any ideas?

Ta

JS

LOL was going to put a post sayin the same, had alot of prob with this today, kept burning the sky or going too dark on the subject??

used a polariser again today but it zapped alot of the available light!

only other thing i can think of is to use a ND filter:roll:
--- old post above --- --- new post below ---

Another nice selection of pics there Ian

thanks Damon, todays weren't so good i binned most lolhock:

 

[Dennis]

Good pics. Has anyone got any tips on how to avoid "burning" the sky? I mainly get this trouble on cloudy days, and suspect it is something to do with the metering mode I am using (Multi)? Any ideas?

Ta

JS

re burning the sky, there is a big clue in this pic ; the sun is located almost 90 degrees to the right of the direction of view, compare the brightness of the sky on the right hand side (where the view is more towards the sun) and the left hand side, which is facing more away from the sun.

The sky (and the right hand side of the clouds) are clearly over-exposed when the view is anything less than ~90 degrees from the sun. For this reason, and to ensure the front of the object is lit, the sun should be behind you.

Another point to remember is that when using any kind of automatic image control (e.g. auto mode on the camera or features such as auto-levels in image processing software) is that this will tend to maximise the contrast in an image. This often means the darkest part of the image will be pure black and the brightest part pure white - as the brightest part of many shots is the sky (particularly white clouds), these are easily 'burnt out'.

Either adjusting the exposure mode (choosing a less contrasty mode such as landscape) or deliberately underexposing the image and then using image processing software features to adjust the contrast can provide useful solutions.

Use of polarising filters presents other problems - the angle of the cross-polarisers is critical in how effectively the filter works (cutting down reflections and the scattered light that causes much of the brightness in the sky and general haziness); optimisation of this will come with practice.

Another problem is that polarised light interacts differently with coated optical surfaces (particularly semi-reflective ones as might be found in light metering surfaces), therefore exposure problems can occur when using polarising filters. The magnitude of this will depend on the nature of the optical systems in the camera and the effectiveness of the filter. I would suggest the best way of overcoming this is to bracket exposures (which is good practice anyway) - all being well one of the shots will be of the correct exposure!

Another option for reducing the brightness of the sky is a skylight filter, where the upper portion is tinted progressively darker (blue).

HTH.

 

[kestrel]

re burning the sky, there is a big clue in this pic ; the sun is located almost 90 degrees to the right of the direction of view, compare the brightness of the sky on the right hand side (where the view is more towards the sun) and the left hand side, which is facing more away from the sun.

The sky (and the right hand side of the clouds) are clearly over-exposed when the view is anything less than ~90 degrees from the sun. For this reason, and to ensure the front of the object is lit, the sun should be behind you.

Another point to remember is that when using any kind of automatic image control (e.g. auto mode on the camera or features such as auto-levels in image processing software) is that this will tend to maximise the contrast in an image. This often means the darkest part of the image will be pure black and the brightest part pure white - as the brightest part of many shots is the sky (particularly white clouds), these are easily 'burnt out'.

Either adjusting the exposure mode (choosing a less contrasty mode such as landscape) or deliberately underexposing the image and then using image processing software features to adjust the contrast can provide useful solutions.

Use of polarising filters presents other problems - the angle of the cross-polarisers is critical in how effectively the filter works (cutting down reflections and the scattered light that causes much of the brightness in the sky and general haziness); optimisation of this will come with practice.

Another problem is that polarised light interacts differently with coated optical surfaces (particularly semi-reflective ones as might be found in light metering surfaces), therefore exposure problems can occur when using polarising filters. The magnitude of this will depend on the nature of the optical systems in the camera and the effectiveness of the filter. I would suggest the best way of overcoming this is to bracket exposures (which is good practice anyway) - all being well one of the shots will be of the correct exposure!

Another option for reducing the brightness of the sky is a skylight filter, where the upper portion is tinted progressively darker (blue).

HTH.

thanks for the advice Dennis ,i read in one of the photo mags that for best results with a polariser one should be at least 90% to the sun i was prob aaround that with that pic, all a learning curve been too used to a point an shoot for too long lol, yes was going to try bracket exposure