In a little over 4 hours my son and I are leaving to attend the Model Rail exhibition in Glasgow. It would of course be sensible to go direct to Glasgow but where's the fun in that? So, it's the Sleeper to Fort William, a short hop to Mallaig before taking the ferry to Skye and a cab to Kyle. Then it's over to Inverness before a dash (a very long dash!!) to Wick and back. Finally we make our way to Glasgow (via Edinburgh of course!!) to attend the exhibition. A comfortable night in Glasgow awaits before heading back to King's Cross and then home to Stevenage on Saturday.
I hope to do a full trip report which I'll update here upon our return. I've even set up a Flickr account to share the pics.
See you all soon,
Lee
At last...
Day 1 – Tuesday 19th February
We almost get off to a bad start. On arrival at Stevenage station we’re greeted by the news that an electrical problem near Alexandra Palace is disrupting all services. Fortunately our train is coming from Leeds (19.07) and is only showing a 10 minute delay. There are a large number of Arsenal fans who will miss the start of the Champions League game verses B. Munich. By 19.20 we’re on our way and arrival at King’s Cross is 19.50. This makes little difference to us as we can’t board the sleeper until 20.30.
Euston is only a short walk from King’s Cross and we arrive in good time for boarding. My son likes to watch the stock arriving but on this occasion it’s already there at platform 15 and is being prepared for its journey north.
As an aside, my son being 8, it’s the first time he’s noticed the strange journey opportunities from King’s Cross to Euston. It’s NORTH bound on the Northern, SOUTH bound on the Victoria or WEST bound on the Circle (Euston Square). I’ve always found this combination quite unique. Does anybody know any other similar combinations?
Regular users of the highland Sleeper will know that the lounge car does get quite busy even during a mid-week in February. Our usual tactic is to get on the platform and find our carriage before other passengers are allowed on to the platform. This ensures we are among the first to board. The platform ticket inspectors normally arrive about 5-10 minutes before boarding so you need to be there before them.
Our destination is Fort William so it’s a long walk down the train to the front two carriages. After a quick photo of the engine (EWS Cl.90) it’s soon time to board. We’re in Coach F (3L, 4U). Bags are dropped off and then it’s a walk back along the platform to the lounge car. I think this coach is my single favorite coach in the UK. It’s quite unique and offers an excellent environment to relax and eat and drink before going to sleep.
We leave on time at 21.15 and the lounge car soon fills. It has the usual mixture of regular travelers, first timers and enthusiasts. Unfortunately for me my son can only really last until about 22.00 when his energy is all but exhausted so after a very nice coffee, hot chocolate and Kit Kat we retire to our room.
Yes, the rooms are very small but they’re always very clean and welcoming. It will be interesting to see how this service develops when the next major investment is made. For me, the berths need a TV (i.e. like the Night Riviera) and Wi-Fi. Beyond that I think they’re fine. We’d all like more space but the reality is it’s never going to happen. And in my opinion it doesn’t need to. And the lounge car is also just about right. I think the seated section is one area that could be improved and additional revenue generated. I’ve been lucky enough to fly Business Class with British Airways and the seats convert in to a flat bed. You could fit 4 across on a train and I think the extra comfort would allow for a higher charge to be made. Surely 4 beds instead of 6 seats is a good swap. I think this option should be considered. And let me tell you, BA charge a small fortune for them. Further, with each seat offering a private TV and table there are more revenue opportunities. Who wouldn’t pay £5 to watch Sky Fall while eating a dinner before drifting off to sleep? Why Scot Rail sells tickets for £19 is beyond me. What’s wrong with £50 converter seat, £75 bed (shared cabin) and £150 bed (single cabin).
On the catering side, the evening food is ok and some of it quite good. However, where is the breakfast? A simple cooked breakfast (like Virgin/East Coast) would be ideal and at £12 (ish) would be snapped up by most and turn a nice profit too. And those in the converter seats could enjoy it to on their own private table. I’m sure this has been considered so maybe there are other problems to consider. But, let’s take this opportunity to ‘make it happen’. It would make a huge difference.
Stevenage > King’s Cross (Adult 21.60 1st Single / Child 10.60 1st Single)
Euston >Fort William (Adult 63.60 2nd Advance/ Child 63.60 2nd Advance)
Day 2 – Wednesday 20th February
There is little finer in the whole world than waking up in the Scottish Highlands having fallen asleep in the English suburbs. That feeling is even more intensified when the weather is at its beautiful best; there’s not a cloud in the sky. We pass by the numerous small halts that are typical of this route but it’s the scenery and wildlife that really grabs your attention. Deer’s, Eagles, Owls and numerous others are spotted and we weren’t really trying. Given the 09.55 arrival time it would have been nice to be able to enjoy the view with a good sized breakfast.
Never mind, on arrival, and after taking a few pictures, it’s off to Morrison for the full English (ok, Scottish). Is there a better view from a large super market than here? We stock a few supplies and it’s back to the station to catch the 12.12 service to Mallaig. We have reserved seats but a large coach party loads the two coaches to almost full. They, like us, will experience this line and all it has to offer with perfect winter sunshine. How lucky we all are!
I’ve done this line a few times yet it never fails to impress. The lack of the Jacobite at this time of year doesn’t spoil the journey either. Isolated from the cold you could be forgiven for thinking you’re in the Caribbean rather than the Highlands such is the beauty of the beaches. And, of course, you have the viaduct. I actually prefer the view from the viaduct, down the valley, than the viaduct its self but in any event, two magnificent views, one man made, the other, the workings of nature.
With little to interrupt the journey we arrive on time in Mallaig. A quick walk to the water’s edge and we have plenty of time to take pictures of the numerous islands that we can clearly see today. Thanks to digital cameras we take many pictures. We’d have gone through numerous rolls of film a few years ago. And then it’s off to find a café. Plenty of choice but don’t expect to find much in the way of value. My small (but very delicious) Monk Fish curry was £9. Throw in a sandwich for my son and a drink each and you can say good bye to almost £20. That’s London pricing; quite a shock.
During the winter there are only two sailings per day to Mallaig. We’re on the 16.00. The previous week this service was cancelled a few times due to the extremely windy weather. Today, well, I’ve seen bigger ripples in a bath. It couldn’t have been more perfect. The loadings were small, maybe 30 passengers and only a few cars. And it’s outside on the deck for the short trip across to Skye. I’m actually only wearing a tee-shirt. 30 minutes later and we arrive.
On a previous trip on this route a small group of us used a taxi (about £45) for the trip to Kyle. This time, though, there is a bus that connects with the ferry and takes you straight to Kyle. A big saving which we’ll use to good effect later in the week. Here is a link to the bus company.
Skye buses PDF
I love coming back over the bridge to Kyle. I know it wasn’t, and indeed still isn’t, popular with some locals but it does serve an important purpose and suits many just fine. Kyle of Lochalsh is a small town and we’re only here for a short time. I chose to stay at the Kyle Hotel. There are a few other choices but I’ve stayed before and it’s ok for one night. The food is good (and slightly cheaper than Mallaig) and the staff are welcoming. They even provide us with a good sized pack lunch for the following morning as we’ll be leaving before breakfast. Can’t ask for more than that. At £55 for a twin the price is acceptable.
Fort William>Mallaig (Adult 6.50 2nd Adv / Child 3.25 2nd Adv) – bargain
Mallaig>Armadale(Skye) (Adult 3.40 single / Child 1.70 single) – bargain
Bus Armadale > Kyle of Lochalsh (Adult 4.40 / Child 2.20)
Day3 – Thursday 21st February
It’s a very early start to catch the 06.22 to Inverness. No advertised catering on the train but no problem, we have our packed lunch to keep us going. But what’s this?? From nowhere the guard turns up with a coffee. No charge, no explanation. Just a, “good morning, tickets please. Oh and here’s a coffee”. And for free. Amazing.
It’s dark for the first 45 minutes but once the sun rises, WOW. There is huge competition in Scotland and nothing should take away from the other routes in this wonderful country but the Kyle to Inverness line is my favourite. It’s amazing all the way. There’s no low lying snow (which I had on a previous trip) but still just perfect. Plenty more wildlife before we join the Far North line at Dingwall. I was quite surprised at how many people were joining the train for the commute in to Inverness. The Kessock Bridge is being repaired and I guess the locals had listened to the warnings and were using the train. Good to see and shows how the railways can work when local road conditions aren’t favorable. Of particular interest is the new station at Conon Bridge. A very simple platform that must rate as one of the shortest in the country. 10m at best. But, for me, it also shows how costs for these low cost solutions can spiral. The works around the station must have cost a small fortune with all sorts of new earth works and paths. I can only presume it was necessary.
We arrive on time at Inverness and take the short break as an opportunity to check in at our hotel. No point in taking the luggage any further. We stayed at the Mecure hotel which is only a very short easy walk from the station. I’ve never stayed here before on my numerous visits to the capital of the Highlands but would now happily recommend it to others. Not sure of the cost as our room is free thanks to an exchanged ‘red letter day’ voucher. To my surprise the room is available (at 09.00) so the bags are duly dispatched and we make our way back to the station.
Before we board the 10.37 to Wick we grab a light breakfast at the station café. And proper pricing! Two hot drinks and some pastries is pleasantly little over £5. You would not get much change from £10 at a Starbucks in London.
The Far North line is new to me soI had little in the way of expectation having read about it numerous times. What little did I know? I found the journey very pleasant. Not quite on a par with Kyle or Mallaig but fantastic nevertheless. The section that runs along the coast is stunning. And again, the weather is helping. Once again we’re treated to perfect blue sky. In addition to the ‘land’ based wildlife of yesterday and this morning we can now add seals to the list (although we did glimpse one in Mallaig harbor).
As it’s unlikely that I’ll return here anytime soon (it’s taken over 40 years to do it once!!) and because we saved £40 on the taxi fare on Skye, I decide that the opportunity to visit Dunnet Head and John o’Groats should not be missed; not least because the weather is holding. So at Thurso we leave the train and get a taxi to see the ‘sights’. I phoned from the train and arranged to be collected from the station. We have about 1h30 mins before the train leaves Wick for the return.
I was surprised (and initially concerned) at how far Dunnet Head is from Thurso. A good 30 minutes. I was not disappointed though. The whole coastline is magnificent. The Orkneys, including the ‘old man of Hoy’ were perfectly in view and made for some wonderful pictures. Our driver said “that’s the first time I’ve seen them in weeks”. Probably a ‘wee tale’ but our luck with the weather is not lost on me. We only have 2 minutes before it’s back in the car to JOG. Here we pose for the usual tourist snaps but wait, where is the famous sign post? It turns out that you have to pay £18 for the privilege of this. No chance. I took the pictures of us by the pole; the sign post can be photo shopped in later!!! We paid £60 for this ride and while it may seem expensive to some, for me, it meant I could visit the places that otherwise I’d not see. And if we’d stayed over to visit by bus (far cheaper) there would be the time lost and the hotel to consider. So overall, happy to pay.
We arrive back at Wick with 10 minutes to spare, take a quick picture of the Welcome to Wick sign above the station and settle back in to our seats. We take advantage of the declassified first class seats. They’re no better than standard but do have power points. Very useful for fading phone and tablet batteries. The load is light and it’s soon dark.
The train, somehow, loses 20 minutes and means it will miss the 20.15 connection to Edinburgh. The guard goes around the train and makes onward plans for all those affected. Some will use a taxi; others will travel on the sleeper to Perth. Excellent customer care. The guard was a credit to Scot Rail and himself. If only all were like this.
Kyle of Lochalsh > Inverness (Adult 12.80 Advance / Child 6.40 return 2nd Class)
Inverness > Wick (Adult 24.00 day return / Child 12.00 return 2nd Class)
Day 4 – Friday 22nd February
Today we are heading for home but not before stopping at Glasgow to visit the Scottish Model Railway exhibition.
We’re on the East Coast 07.55 departure to Edinburgh. Why not direct to Glasgow? Well, why not? East Coast is the best around and the First Class fare to Edinburgh (even with the Glasgow bit added on) was cheaper than Scot Rail. And we weren’t let down. I had a lovely bacon sandwich and my son had porridge with banana. Having breakfast while powering down the Highland main line must rank among the best dining experiences there is. So much better than a Ramsey restaurant, any day. Throw in Wi-Fi and a decent Mk3 carriage and we’re in travel heaven. We’re running out of luck with the weather though. It’s still clear but not quite the crystal clear sky of the previous day.
My favourite part of this journey, and indeed of any journey, is the section near Blair Atoll. There’s just something about that gorge that I like. The best section of line in the UK (and by default, the world). We arrive refreshed, full (with more biscuits and coffee than are really needed) and on time in to Waverly. Just enough time for a picture of that marvelous sky line from the top of the Prince’s Street steps (ok, escalators!).
The journey to Glasgow is efficient if uneventful. Quite dull by the standards of this trip. Nevermind, we’re quickly in a taxi and at our hotel for the evening. Tonight we’re staying at the Crown Plaza. Largely because it’s next door to the exhibition center and it has a large pool but mostly because it’s free. And bonus, we’re upgraded to a suite. My own room at last. I’m sure my son is thinking the same; no more dad snoring!!! The benefits of traveling with work is lots of free hotel rooms courtesy of reward programs.
We spend about 4 hours at the exhibition. My son and I found it to be very good. Lots of excellent layouts, none of which I’ve seen before, and some great trade stands. Being a Friday it was relatively quiet. We found it easy to see all the layouts and take plenty of pictures. I’m not sure when the Friday opening started but long may it continue. I’ll certainly visit again if that’s the case.
A quick swim and dinner and it’s time for bed. Another long day tomorrow awaits.
Inverness > Edinburgh (Adult 27.00 Advance / Child 13.50 First Class)
Edinburgh > Glasgow (Adult 19.90 Day single / Child 9.95 First Class)
Exhibition (Adult 10.00 / Child 6.00)
Day 5 – Saturday 23rd February
An early start (again!) to catch the 07.45 to Edinburgh, from Queen Street. No need for breakfast, we’re on East Coast. Another effortless journey to Edinburgh and time to get supplies for before catching the 09.30 to King’s Cross. Despite the numerous trips my son has been on he’s never been non-stop through Stevenage. This was our chance. And today it’s a HST. It means First Class is busy (onlybut we have a table for 2 so no problem there. Would have gone for a 4 but of course it’s the wrong side of the train for this route. We settle in and await our breakfast.
Oh dear. East Coast, what’s happened? I knew it was the weekend and breakfast wouldn’t be the usual fare but not even a bacon sandwich. With drooped shoulders I walk back to the buffet. And what’s this. I’m the first person to be served and virtually no hot food. I take the only 2 ham and cheese baguettes. No bacon sandwiches, no breakfast Panini, nothing. Come on East Coast. These things are not hard to get right. I’m a VERY loyal East Coast customer (over 10,000 reward points so far) so realise it’s not the norm but others on the train, maybe for the first time in a while, what signal does it send? A very poor effort and so easy to get right.
Nevertheless, we speed past the coastal section which (and this will provoke debate) I prefer to the Settle and Carlisle line. Again (easily over my 100th time, yet I’m not disappointed). More importantly, for my son, we speed through Stevenage (124mph on the GPS). Passing through Welwyn Garden City the breaks come on. Presumably an emergency application given the sudden stop and not at a signal post either. It turns out there is a signal failure and the delay cost us 15 minutes. Despite the breakfast issue the journey was quite pleasant and we still arrive in time to catch the 14.22 back to Stevenage. A quick visit to the First Class lounge for a coffee and we’re soon on our way home. We arrive on time at Stevenage for the end of a very memorable trip.
Thank you for reading,
Lee (and Ryan)
I hope to do a full trip report which I'll update here upon our return. I've even set up a Flickr account to share the pics.
See you all soon,
Lee
At last...
Day 1 – Tuesday 19th February
We almost get off to a bad start. On arrival at Stevenage station we’re greeted by the news that an electrical problem near Alexandra Palace is disrupting all services. Fortunately our train is coming from Leeds (19.07) and is only showing a 10 minute delay. There are a large number of Arsenal fans who will miss the start of the Champions League game verses B. Munich. By 19.20 we’re on our way and arrival at King’s Cross is 19.50. This makes little difference to us as we can’t board the sleeper until 20.30.
Euston is only a short walk from King’s Cross and we arrive in good time for boarding. My son likes to watch the stock arriving but on this occasion it’s already there at platform 15 and is being prepared for its journey north.
As an aside, my son being 8, it’s the first time he’s noticed the strange journey opportunities from King’s Cross to Euston. It’s NORTH bound on the Northern, SOUTH bound on the Victoria or WEST bound on the Circle (Euston Square). I’ve always found this combination quite unique. Does anybody know any other similar combinations?
Regular users of the highland Sleeper will know that the lounge car does get quite busy even during a mid-week in February. Our usual tactic is to get on the platform and find our carriage before other passengers are allowed on to the platform. This ensures we are among the first to board. The platform ticket inspectors normally arrive about 5-10 minutes before boarding so you need to be there before them.
Our destination is Fort William so it’s a long walk down the train to the front two carriages. After a quick photo of the engine (EWS Cl.90) it’s soon time to board. We’re in Coach F (3L, 4U). Bags are dropped off and then it’s a walk back along the platform to the lounge car. I think this coach is my single favorite coach in the UK. It’s quite unique and offers an excellent environment to relax and eat and drink before going to sleep.
We leave on time at 21.15 and the lounge car soon fills. It has the usual mixture of regular travelers, first timers and enthusiasts. Unfortunately for me my son can only really last until about 22.00 when his energy is all but exhausted so after a very nice coffee, hot chocolate and Kit Kat we retire to our room.
Yes, the rooms are very small but they’re always very clean and welcoming. It will be interesting to see how this service develops when the next major investment is made. For me, the berths need a TV (i.e. like the Night Riviera) and Wi-Fi. Beyond that I think they’re fine. We’d all like more space but the reality is it’s never going to happen. And in my opinion it doesn’t need to. And the lounge car is also just about right. I think the seated section is one area that could be improved and additional revenue generated. I’ve been lucky enough to fly Business Class with British Airways and the seats convert in to a flat bed. You could fit 4 across on a train and I think the extra comfort would allow for a higher charge to be made. Surely 4 beds instead of 6 seats is a good swap. I think this option should be considered. And let me tell you, BA charge a small fortune for them. Further, with each seat offering a private TV and table there are more revenue opportunities. Who wouldn’t pay £5 to watch Sky Fall while eating a dinner before drifting off to sleep? Why Scot Rail sells tickets for £19 is beyond me. What’s wrong with £50 converter seat, £75 bed (shared cabin) and £150 bed (single cabin).
On the catering side, the evening food is ok and some of it quite good. However, where is the breakfast? A simple cooked breakfast (like Virgin/East Coast) would be ideal and at £12 (ish) would be snapped up by most and turn a nice profit too. And those in the converter seats could enjoy it to on their own private table. I’m sure this has been considered so maybe there are other problems to consider. But, let’s take this opportunity to ‘make it happen’. It would make a huge difference.
Stevenage > King’s Cross (Adult 21.60 1st Single / Child 10.60 1st Single)
Euston >Fort William (Adult 63.60 2nd Advance/ Child 63.60 2nd Advance)
Day 2 – Wednesday 20th February
There is little finer in the whole world than waking up in the Scottish Highlands having fallen asleep in the English suburbs. That feeling is even more intensified when the weather is at its beautiful best; there’s not a cloud in the sky. We pass by the numerous small halts that are typical of this route but it’s the scenery and wildlife that really grabs your attention. Deer’s, Eagles, Owls and numerous others are spotted and we weren’t really trying. Given the 09.55 arrival time it would have been nice to be able to enjoy the view with a good sized breakfast.
Never mind, on arrival, and after taking a few pictures, it’s off to Morrison for the full English (ok, Scottish). Is there a better view from a large super market than here? We stock a few supplies and it’s back to the station to catch the 12.12 service to Mallaig. We have reserved seats but a large coach party loads the two coaches to almost full. They, like us, will experience this line and all it has to offer with perfect winter sunshine. How lucky we all are!
I’ve done this line a few times yet it never fails to impress. The lack of the Jacobite at this time of year doesn’t spoil the journey either. Isolated from the cold you could be forgiven for thinking you’re in the Caribbean rather than the Highlands such is the beauty of the beaches. And, of course, you have the viaduct. I actually prefer the view from the viaduct, down the valley, than the viaduct its self but in any event, two magnificent views, one man made, the other, the workings of nature.
With little to interrupt the journey we arrive on time in Mallaig. A quick walk to the water’s edge and we have plenty of time to take pictures of the numerous islands that we can clearly see today. Thanks to digital cameras we take many pictures. We’d have gone through numerous rolls of film a few years ago. And then it’s off to find a café. Plenty of choice but don’t expect to find much in the way of value. My small (but very delicious) Monk Fish curry was £9. Throw in a sandwich for my son and a drink each and you can say good bye to almost £20. That’s London pricing; quite a shock.
During the winter there are only two sailings per day to Mallaig. We’re on the 16.00. The previous week this service was cancelled a few times due to the extremely windy weather. Today, well, I’ve seen bigger ripples in a bath. It couldn’t have been more perfect. The loadings were small, maybe 30 passengers and only a few cars. And it’s outside on the deck for the short trip across to Skye. I’m actually only wearing a tee-shirt. 30 minutes later and we arrive.
On a previous trip on this route a small group of us used a taxi (about £45) for the trip to Kyle. This time, though, there is a bus that connects with the ferry and takes you straight to Kyle. A big saving which we’ll use to good effect later in the week. Here is a link to the bus company.
Skye buses PDF
I love coming back over the bridge to Kyle. I know it wasn’t, and indeed still isn’t, popular with some locals but it does serve an important purpose and suits many just fine. Kyle of Lochalsh is a small town and we’re only here for a short time. I chose to stay at the Kyle Hotel. There are a few other choices but I’ve stayed before and it’s ok for one night. The food is good (and slightly cheaper than Mallaig) and the staff are welcoming. They even provide us with a good sized pack lunch for the following morning as we’ll be leaving before breakfast. Can’t ask for more than that. At £55 for a twin the price is acceptable.
Fort William>Mallaig (Adult 6.50 2nd Adv / Child 3.25 2nd Adv) – bargain
Mallaig>Armadale(Skye) (Adult 3.40 single / Child 1.70 single) – bargain
Bus Armadale > Kyle of Lochalsh (Adult 4.40 / Child 2.20)
Day3 – Thursday 21st February
It’s a very early start to catch the 06.22 to Inverness. No advertised catering on the train but no problem, we have our packed lunch to keep us going. But what’s this?? From nowhere the guard turns up with a coffee. No charge, no explanation. Just a, “good morning, tickets please. Oh and here’s a coffee”. And for free. Amazing.
It’s dark for the first 45 minutes but once the sun rises, WOW. There is huge competition in Scotland and nothing should take away from the other routes in this wonderful country but the Kyle to Inverness line is my favourite. It’s amazing all the way. There’s no low lying snow (which I had on a previous trip) but still just perfect. Plenty more wildlife before we join the Far North line at Dingwall. I was quite surprised at how many people were joining the train for the commute in to Inverness. The Kessock Bridge is being repaired and I guess the locals had listened to the warnings and were using the train. Good to see and shows how the railways can work when local road conditions aren’t favorable. Of particular interest is the new station at Conon Bridge. A very simple platform that must rate as one of the shortest in the country. 10m at best. But, for me, it also shows how costs for these low cost solutions can spiral. The works around the station must have cost a small fortune with all sorts of new earth works and paths. I can only presume it was necessary.
We arrive on time at Inverness and take the short break as an opportunity to check in at our hotel. No point in taking the luggage any further. We stayed at the Mecure hotel which is only a very short easy walk from the station. I’ve never stayed here before on my numerous visits to the capital of the Highlands but would now happily recommend it to others. Not sure of the cost as our room is free thanks to an exchanged ‘red letter day’ voucher. To my surprise the room is available (at 09.00) so the bags are duly dispatched and we make our way back to the station.
Before we board the 10.37 to Wick we grab a light breakfast at the station café. And proper pricing! Two hot drinks and some pastries is pleasantly little over £5. You would not get much change from £10 at a Starbucks in London.
The Far North line is new to me soI had little in the way of expectation having read about it numerous times. What little did I know? I found the journey very pleasant. Not quite on a par with Kyle or Mallaig but fantastic nevertheless. The section that runs along the coast is stunning. And again, the weather is helping. Once again we’re treated to perfect blue sky. In addition to the ‘land’ based wildlife of yesterday and this morning we can now add seals to the list (although we did glimpse one in Mallaig harbor).
As it’s unlikely that I’ll return here anytime soon (it’s taken over 40 years to do it once!!) and because we saved £40 on the taxi fare on Skye, I decide that the opportunity to visit Dunnet Head and John o’Groats should not be missed; not least because the weather is holding. So at Thurso we leave the train and get a taxi to see the ‘sights’. I phoned from the train and arranged to be collected from the station. We have about 1h30 mins before the train leaves Wick for the return.
I was surprised (and initially concerned) at how far Dunnet Head is from Thurso. A good 30 minutes. I was not disappointed though. The whole coastline is magnificent. The Orkneys, including the ‘old man of Hoy’ were perfectly in view and made for some wonderful pictures. Our driver said “that’s the first time I’ve seen them in weeks”. Probably a ‘wee tale’ but our luck with the weather is not lost on me. We only have 2 minutes before it’s back in the car to JOG. Here we pose for the usual tourist snaps but wait, where is the famous sign post? It turns out that you have to pay £18 for the privilege of this. No chance. I took the pictures of us by the pole; the sign post can be photo shopped in later!!! We paid £60 for this ride and while it may seem expensive to some, for me, it meant I could visit the places that otherwise I’d not see. And if we’d stayed over to visit by bus (far cheaper) there would be the time lost and the hotel to consider. So overall, happy to pay.
We arrive back at Wick with 10 minutes to spare, take a quick picture of the Welcome to Wick sign above the station and settle back in to our seats. We take advantage of the declassified first class seats. They’re no better than standard but do have power points. Very useful for fading phone and tablet batteries. The load is light and it’s soon dark.
The train, somehow, loses 20 minutes and means it will miss the 20.15 connection to Edinburgh. The guard goes around the train and makes onward plans for all those affected. Some will use a taxi; others will travel on the sleeper to Perth. Excellent customer care. The guard was a credit to Scot Rail and himself. If only all were like this.
Kyle of Lochalsh > Inverness (Adult 12.80 Advance / Child 6.40 return 2nd Class)
Inverness > Wick (Adult 24.00 day return / Child 12.00 return 2nd Class)
Day 4 – Friday 22nd February
Today we are heading for home but not before stopping at Glasgow to visit the Scottish Model Railway exhibition.
We’re on the East Coast 07.55 departure to Edinburgh. Why not direct to Glasgow? Well, why not? East Coast is the best around and the First Class fare to Edinburgh (even with the Glasgow bit added on) was cheaper than Scot Rail. And we weren’t let down. I had a lovely bacon sandwich and my son had porridge with banana. Having breakfast while powering down the Highland main line must rank among the best dining experiences there is. So much better than a Ramsey restaurant, any day. Throw in Wi-Fi and a decent Mk3 carriage and we’re in travel heaven. We’re running out of luck with the weather though. It’s still clear but not quite the crystal clear sky of the previous day.
My favourite part of this journey, and indeed of any journey, is the section near Blair Atoll. There’s just something about that gorge that I like. The best section of line in the UK (and by default, the world). We arrive refreshed, full (with more biscuits and coffee than are really needed) and on time in to Waverly. Just enough time for a picture of that marvelous sky line from the top of the Prince’s Street steps (ok, escalators!).
The journey to Glasgow is efficient if uneventful. Quite dull by the standards of this trip. Nevermind, we’re quickly in a taxi and at our hotel for the evening. Tonight we’re staying at the Crown Plaza. Largely because it’s next door to the exhibition center and it has a large pool but mostly because it’s free. And bonus, we’re upgraded to a suite. My own room at last. I’m sure my son is thinking the same; no more dad snoring!!! The benefits of traveling with work is lots of free hotel rooms courtesy of reward programs.
We spend about 4 hours at the exhibition. My son and I found it to be very good. Lots of excellent layouts, none of which I’ve seen before, and some great trade stands. Being a Friday it was relatively quiet. We found it easy to see all the layouts and take plenty of pictures. I’m not sure when the Friday opening started but long may it continue. I’ll certainly visit again if that’s the case.
A quick swim and dinner and it’s time for bed. Another long day tomorrow awaits.
Inverness > Edinburgh (Adult 27.00 Advance / Child 13.50 First Class)
Edinburgh > Glasgow (Adult 19.90 Day single / Child 9.95 First Class)
Exhibition (Adult 10.00 / Child 6.00)
Day 5 – Saturday 23rd February
An early start (again!) to catch the 07.45 to Edinburgh, from Queen Street. No need for breakfast, we’re on East Coast. Another effortless journey to Edinburgh and time to get supplies for before catching the 09.30 to King’s Cross. Despite the numerous trips my son has been on he’s never been non-stop through Stevenage. This was our chance. And today it’s a HST. It means First Class is busy (onlybut we have a table for 2 so no problem there. Would have gone for a 4 but of course it’s the wrong side of the train for this route. We settle in and await our breakfast.
Oh dear. East Coast, what’s happened? I knew it was the weekend and breakfast wouldn’t be the usual fare but not even a bacon sandwich. With drooped shoulders I walk back to the buffet. And what’s this. I’m the first person to be served and virtually no hot food. I take the only 2 ham and cheese baguettes. No bacon sandwiches, no breakfast Panini, nothing. Come on East Coast. These things are not hard to get right. I’m a VERY loyal East Coast customer (over 10,000 reward points so far) so realise it’s not the norm but others on the train, maybe for the first time in a while, what signal does it send? A very poor effort and so easy to get right.
Nevertheless, we speed past the coastal section which (and this will provoke debate) I prefer to the Settle and Carlisle line. Again (easily over my 100th time, yet I’m not disappointed). More importantly, for my son, we speed through Stevenage (124mph on the GPS). Passing through Welwyn Garden City the breaks come on. Presumably an emergency application given the sudden stop and not at a signal post either. It turns out there is a signal failure and the delay cost us 15 minutes. Despite the breakfast issue the journey was quite pleasant and we still arrive in time to catch the 14.22 back to Stevenage. A quick visit to the First Class lounge for a coffee and we’re soon on our way home. We arrive on time at Stevenage for the end of a very memorable trip.
Thank you for reading,
Lee (and Ryan)
Last edited:
