A day of buses up the Cumbrian Coast! I’ve not usually done trip reports but I thought I’d post this one because it covers the brand new route X7, connecting Millom and Whitehaven and providing a bus connection between Barrow and the west Cumbrian coastal towns for the first time in years. The 7 (Barrow-Millom) has also been running less than a year, so it’s a pretty impressive change of fortune for bus travel on the A595.
I started my journey in Barrow on Stagecoach CNL’s route 1, on a bus bound for Furness General Hospital. The vehicle was 63987, one of the Enviro 200s that got transferred over from Barnsley back in the spring. These tend to get used on the 1 and they’re showing their age. They are steadily being repainted into the new ‘dark blue’ livery, the only vehicles in Barrow to be getting it at the moment, but there’s still at least one in ‘beachball’ colours – so you can get all three Stagecoach liveries (Beachball, Local and ‘Dark blue’) on one route! I got off the 1 in at Barrow Town Hall, which is the town’s bus hub. Like many places, Barrow no longer has a bus station (it notably got eaten by a dinosaur in a 1980s chewits advert) but the Town Hall stops fulfil the job pretty well. There’s some digital information screens but I’ve never yet seen them switched on and they look pretty old – it’d be nice to get them working again.
There are only two regular bus routes that leave Barrow town (excluding the Blueworks 11 and X7 which are only 1 or 2 weekday journeys per day) and these are the 6/6A/X6 to Windermere/Ulverston/Kendal) and the 7 to Millom. The 7 is run with the new Optare Solo SRs that came to Barrow about 9 months ago. These are smart little buses which also show up on the town routes like the 1 usually only on Sundays, when the route is less busy, and have next-stop announcements. My bus was 48196, which had just come off early-morning runs on the 6 from Windermere.
After leaving Barrow and turning onto the A595 (the coast road) we passed through Askam and then the road climbs to run at high level along the lower flank of Kirkby Moor. You get lovely views out over the Duddon Estuary, with Black Combe rising above Millom on the opposite side. It always looks so close, but by road it would be at nearly an hour until we’d get there! At Grizebeck the A595 is being completely straightened out as part of a big new bypass scheme and it was quite impressive to see the earthworks of the new cutting that will carry the re-alignment. Beyond Grizebeck the road dropped back to the valley floor, past Foxfield station and finally into Broughton-in-Furness.

(View over the Duddon sands towards Millom and Black Combe - still an hour's bus ride away though)
Broughton-in-Furness is a very pretty little place. The signs call it a ‘historic market town’ but it’s smaller than many villages. There’s some very smart buildings in the central square, but the whole place felt extremely quiet – there was literally nobody about, but then it was 9.30am on a Saturday. One of the passengers alighted and the driver went off to the shop, but came back seconds later because it was closed. On the way out we passed the curious ‘CGP Pitstop’ garage, with its giant model cars on the roof – a blast from the past given I used to use CGP Guides when revising for school exams!
Crossing the Duddon, we moved from Westmoreland & Furness (and formerly Lancashire) into Cumberland. The next stop was Millom, a small town which once had a large ironworks and a docks. Now it has neither, and sadly feels pretty isolated. Until this year it didn’t have any buses either, but the 7 was re-instated earlier this year and it now also gets a local town route, the M1, which interworks with the 7 and shuttles backwards and forwards between Millom and Haverigg. All the buses in Millom pull up outside the grand buildings on Market Square. Another 7 was waiting, ready to go back to Barrow, and our driver left to take that one whilst we got a new driver to take us up the coast to Whitehaven. The bus changed its number to X7 and stopped announcing the next stops – maybe they’ve yet to be added onto the system?
We took a detour out through Haverigg before re-joining the A595 at Silecroft. The route then ran along the bottom edge of Black Combe, with intermittent views down towards the sea, through the small village of Bootle and down into the lower end of Eskdale. As the bus descended into the valley to cross the Esk, there were good views of Muncaster Castle, although it’s hard to spot as it camouflages well with the trees. Was there a bus stop at the castle? I’m not sure, but it would be a good idea if there was. The summer Wasdale Explorer bus does call at the castle and people do use the stop there, so I’m sure with a bit of public information there’s potential to make more out of the bus service here. In Ravenglass we circled round the car park outside the Ratty Arms but nobody got on or off. In fact, the only people on the bus were myself and a family who were doing the same as me – taking a ride on the new bus route just for the fun of it. The parents were saying very loudly that they regretted it though, as they’d not realised it would be nearly 3 hours on a bumpy and rattling bus, and there was no way they were getting the bus back instead of the train!

(Muncaster Castle - Hidden in the trees)
The scenery at this point was some of the best on the route, with views up to the high fells around Wasdale and Eskdale – although unfortunately I was sat on the wrong side of the bus to get any good photos. We picked up our first new passenger since Barrow at Gosforth, then hit the upgraded A595 at Thornhill. This is the south end of Stagecoach’s West Cumbria empire, where the number 30 terminates on the end of its journey down from Maryport. I alighted in Egremont and had a look at the castle. Egremont is a small town but the high street was getting busy, and the brass band was playing opposite the main town centre bus stop. I picked up the number 30 towards Maryport, the first double-decker bus of the trip. The bus was 15222, with the dark green Lakes livery and X4/X5 branding. Inside it was clearly an ex-Gold vehicle, with the big storage racks on the lower deck and leather seats, although it didn’t have the Fleur-de-Lys wallpaper that some of them have. The run over the hills to Whitehaven is a nice drive, especially from the top deck of a bus where you could see the sea at times. The bus took a short loop up past the West Cumbrian Hospital on the outskirts of Whitehaven, and from up here you got a good view down over the town and its harbour. The 30 has two branches at the south end, buses alternate between Thornhill via Egremont and Frizington via Cleator Moor, and converge in Whitehaven itself. Whitehaven town centre is a curious place with lots of old (Georgian?) buildings built in a tightly-packed grid pattern. It looked like it might be nice to explore on a day with better weather, but it was starting to rain so I opted to stick on the 30 towards Workington.

(Egremont town centre)
The bus climbed steeply out of Whitehaven – the town is on a small bay so all routes out of it require some sort of uphill climb – and hit the A595 again. As you swing past Parton you’re close to the tops of the cliffs and there were good views out to sea before the bus went inland again. It followed the old course of the A595 through Distington (which now has a bypass) then we crossed the A595 at the south end of Lillyhall to head down past Harrington (a coastal village-cum-suburb that adjoins Workington) and into Workington proper.
Workington must be one of the few places left in the country with a proper indoors drive-through bus station. It’s an arc-shaped building and the buses drive in one side, park up at bays, then drive out the other, and the whole thing is built of lovely red and white brick. I alighted at the bus station and walked into town to find some lunch. Workington town centre was nice enough, and very busy with people. It’s got a modern pedestrianised shopping complex called Washington Square which was nice but it made me wonder what was there before. In particular, between the bus station and the shopping area you cross an old cutting with bridges at either end which definitely looked ex-railway. When I got home I checked the old maps and saw it had been the line through Workington Central, and the station had been just yards away.


(Workington Bus Station)
After getting some lunch I headed back to the bus station. It’s a bright and airy place and Stagecoach do a good job of making it look smart and well cared-for. I was intending to catch the 29A back to Whitehaven and noticed the map on the bus stand showing the 29 and 29A routes (see picture below). It seems a bit odd that it showed Lowca and Distington on the opposite sides to where they geographically are – Lowca is west of Distington, but is on the right-hand side of that diagram! Have they been shown in alphanumeric order rather than as an actual map? It’s definitely not a helpful picture. 48002, a Lakes-liveried Optare Solo SR turned up showing 29, but a passenger asked and the driver confirmed he was a 29A and we set off. The 29A heads straight east out of Whitehaven, and it was surprising just how quickly the town ends going in that direction, compared to the long approach through the suburbs from the south. We had two Stagecoach drivers aboard (besides the actual driver of the bus), which seemed odd until the first place we stopped at was Lillyhall depot! The bus then took a circuitous route round the Lillyhall estate – which is a big out-of-town set of industrial estates which felt rather dead and empty on a Saturday afternoon but no doubt get busy during the weekdays. At the south end we got on the Distington bypass, and a lady shouted to the driver that she thought he should have gone the other way. The driver called out that he’d made a mistake and would turn around – unfortunately the next available point to turn around was at Moresby, virtually back at Whitehaven. Curiously, I don’t think there’s any bus that’s routed straight down the Distington bypass so I’m not sure why we had been going down there anyway. Was this a 29? Was this a 29A? Or something else entirely?

(Misleading route map at Workington Bus Station, with a 300 about to depart for Carlisle behind)
So we went back up the Distington bypass, retracing our steps back to Lillyhall! The driver turned us off and took us to Lowca. As we were running very late, it was an extremely fast ride over the tops of the hills to Lowca, a little village that sits above the cliffs north of Parton. There were great sea views most of the way, and despite being a much older bus the ride was far smoother than the new Solo SR I’d spent two and a half hours on that morning! After briefly rejoining the A595 through Parton the bus turned off again to take the route right over the tops of the cliffs through Bransty, with Whitehaven harbour visible dead ahead of us. The route down from Bransty drops steeply down to go past the railway station, then back into Whitehaven town.

(The view at Bransty - Whitehaven beyond)
I’d not noticed it coming, but Whitehaven has a bus station – just not one in use by buses. It looked similar in style to the one at Workington, but now looked like it was a restaurant or something. The buses now do a loop round the town centre, ending at Strand Street. At this point the bus promptly became a number 3, which took me up to Corkickle in around 5 minutes. I was the only passenger onboard.

(Whitehaven Bus Station - sadly no longer served by buses)
It would be nearly another two hours until the next X7, and there’s not much point doing a scenic bus journey in the dark anyway, so I decided to head for the train. Corkickle station really is very close to Whitehaven town centre. If it turns out that Bransty Tunnel really can’t be fixed and the line is permanently cut then rename it Whitehaven South and it’ll probably do the job okay. Still, I hope they can repair Bransty Tunnel – it was looking pretty forlorn with the temporary barriers blocking it off – and bring the full through service back to the coast line. I was rather looking forward to the novelty of getting a 195 down the Cumbrian Coast, but the train waiting was a regular 156. Still, it’s always a pleasant journey down the coast, especially along the seashore through Braystones and Nethertown. I got back to Barrow in the dark and the rain, so it was probably the right decision not to wait around for the X7.
So, the 7/X7 – is it worth it? Well it’s obviously a novelty to have a complete bus route up the Cumbrian Coast, but it takes a long time (2h 40min), especially on an Optare Solo as they’re not particularly comfortable things. It was interesting that the only people who did the Millom to Whitehaven stretch were both doing it as part of a day ‘bus exploring’, we didn’t have any ‘real’ passengers. Maybe that’s different on a weekday, or will be in the summer, especially if Stagecoach can promote the route (add it to their Lakes booklet maybe) and/or get people like Muncaster Castle or the Ratty to make it obvious to visitors that they have a bus link. But for day-to-day use, I’m not sure where the demand is going to come from. The train is faster, comfier, more frequent and sometimes only £3-4 more expensive so I’m not sure where the bus wins here. I guess the only thing the train doesn’t easily do is serve Gosforth, which was interestingly the only place we picked up a passenger. The Whitehaven/Workington network is solid. The buses come in a variety of liveries (Lakes/Local/Beachball) and it feels like Stagecoach doesn’t quite have the consistent brand that it used to, but that’s true of Stagecoach elsewhere too. There’s a good few local town routes in both Whitehaven and Workington that I didn’t get a chance to try, plus the routes further north towards Carlisle, so it’s a good little network to go back and explore again. But the X7? I’ve done it once, so I can say I’ve sampled the route, but I think next time I’ll go back to the train again.